lmorris

Steady work since I started. None of the service advisor crap I had to put up with at the last place. Things are going great.

Long block (6.2L) and complete driveline fluid change on 2017 F350. The truck decided it wanted to go swimming in a ditch.

2012 GMC 3500 CVIP-Rear axle seals, E-brake shoes and pads. 4 tires.

My 2015 F150 front diff overhaul went very well.

Boss wants us to pound out a bunch of used car inspections along with some Certified Pre-owned units.

All set up in the new place of employment. Heartland Ford in Fort Saskatchewan AB. Doing general work along with commercial vehicle inspections.

2015 F150 front diff overhaul. Had gear set and bearings 3 weeks ago. Now I have it and there is some funky wear on the side bearings and the side gears and spiders bind and clunk when rotated.

I just use diesel fuel.

Starting Monday I am at a new place of employment. I've worn out my patience with this place and it's time to move on. I will no longer be a full time diesel technician, going back to general and gas engine repairs. I will be back-up for the current diesel tech they have there however, so I will still be lurking around from time to time. After I make the move I will update my employer information on the site. Thanks for all the help over the past few years. Great group of guys here.

Have you drained the oil pan yet? I ask because if the oil level is overfull it will fill the CAC. If you have coolant in the oil it could be carried with the oil and get separated in the CAC.

 

 

I can't get the torque converter out of the pump in the conventional manner.

Care to explain?

 

I'm curious too.

 

Never mind. I was trying to walk it out onto my bench by building a bridge with pieces of wood so I wouldn't have to remove it from the jack. After setting it nose up it lifted right out.

Upper oil pan on a 2016 6.7L. Also has a torque converter seal leak, but I can't get the torque converter out of the pump in the conventional manner. 

No..but they can't be that bad. There is so much room in there you could take out the seats and have room for your toolbox. 

 

Actually, the orientation is correct- in my picture the outlet pipes are horizontal. It's the chassis orientation that's messed up- it's vertical.......

 

 

 

Yeah I saw that once I posted it. But I don't know how to rotate it from my phone.

 

I find rotating the picture on the phone after I take the picture doesn't work. I just turn my phone sideways now when I take the picture. They seem to upload normally that way. 

Just looked at a 2017 that was on the lube rack. 8000 KM and starting to stain in the same spot. Someone is going to get good at pulling these engines if this keeps up.

Currently resealing a 2016. It sure helps if you can let the truck sit for more that 12 hours before pulling the pan off. I only had 2 drips to contend with once the upper pan was out. I had the upper pan back in place 45 minutes later. It helps a bunch to remove the front two battery cable bracket mounting bolts before putting it back together. Remove the two lower fan diffuser nuts and push it towards the fan shroud to make it easier to get the bracket bolts back into the pan.  

If you are slow and need to get some work in the door....QUIT...I handed in my notice today and have more work lined up than I have seen in a while. 

I finally got my 6.4L dipstick tube back in.    

Radiator and front crank seal on a 2009 6.4L is next in line.

Well the customer texted me yesterday and said that he found the problem and when i asked what it was he said that it was the Dual Mass Flywheel. I never asked him how he found out that it was the Dual Mass Flywheel but it makes perfect sense to me. Thank you all

Geez....Keep forgetting they put 6 speeds behind the 6L. Mainly because I never see any. Never heard of dual mass flywheel issues on a 6L either. For future reference, at idle when they are "running rough" you can usually here a very odd noise at the same time. Hard to describe it though.  

Anyone have any success cleaning out the hole in the upper pan? Mine is corroded enough that the oring on the new tube won't go back into the hole. There is not enough room to get anything in there to clean it out from the top. My only foreseeable option is the drop the lower pan and go from the bottom. Thanks. 

First thing that pops into my head is a loose crank trigger wheel. Only because of the pattern not being consistent to a single bank, and always paired with the next in the firing order. 2 high-2 low...etc. The 2003 6L was bad for that.  

All good information to have on hand. I have one that will idle on the runway between flights all day, the idle will surge then it quits. P1670 is the only code. After reading this I checked the ICP sensor and found the connector full of oil. 

What the hell is that used for?

Airport tow vehicle. Not sure exactly what it tows though. Small aircraft, fueling equipment, baggage carts.

The ones I get have the upper hose getting hot at 165 F. No codes. No complaints. I catch them when they come in for other concerns. This one had a leaking rad and the fan clutch was inoperative. 170,000 KM's. 

I'm surprised the guy got away with taking the picture and sending it to you without getting accused of cheating.

In for intermittent stalling P1670. What a weird feeling driving this thing around the lot.

Starting to see a lot of these. 

I was in Calgary a few months ago, when it was super cold, and my low tire pressure light came on. I stopped at a Canadian tire to get some air, (they wouldnt let me do it myself). A guy (tech?) came out and was checking my tires. He was using a tire filler with a built in slider guage, same one I have at work. He was using a separate digital guage to check pressure. I said to him " there is a guage on that air chuck you know?". His reply was "yes, but we are only allowed to use digital gauges, so we don't screw it up". 

If you ever make to the Edmonton area and need air, find a Hughes Car wash location. Only company left that has FREE air.