lmorris

Sometimes it makes me wonder why they didn't put in a low oil pressure shutdown in 6.4 or 6.7 engine.

 

The now ancient 7.3 DI would shut down with low oil level, saw that so many times with them 10s of thousands over on service and about 10 quarts low.  If they weren't low, being so far over on oil service they'd run like absolute crap. 

 

Funny thing is, when International designed that system, that was never a factor. It just sort of happened.

Crazy thing is that I took apart everything that the GSB lists for contamination checks and not a single sign of DEF anywhere. Now we know. Thanks for all the input guys.

Jeez-a-loo. You guys act like snow is something to be feared.    

Ya..forgot about this one. Another tech cleaned out the tank and flushed the lines, and replaced the filters. New return line is still staying together as far as I know. 

I would check it carefully for metal. It may need injectors too!

See a lot of diesels coming in filled with gas. A possibility with this one. They may have already drained the system and you will never know.

That was the wording on the fsa when I read it. Unless they changed something.

I re-read it, you are correct. Problem is this, if the Service Advisor is doing their job, they will write up the recall when the vehicle comes in for another concern, because it's in OASIS. That's what happened to mine. So how do you close the recall with out claiming any time? How do you tell the customer we can't perform the recall, when we already told them about it. They messed up releasing this one for sure. 

If the unit is sold and fails the test, then the repair is put though under powertrain warranty, not the recall. 

Have 3 lined up, 2 stock units, 1 customer owned. Talked the dealership owner to run the 2 stock units with IDS hooked up for me on Saturday, so I can test them both Monday morning. Only issue is the temperature is dropping to -28C over the weekend here, so he may have to move them into the shop first. The customer one let us have his over night as well.

They will run without the MAF sensor. The erratic FRP is odd though. I would be checking for metal in the rails first. 

Blue Point YA6490A. Says its for GM and Chrysler but it works on Ford 3.5L and 3.7L engines. The same puller is available from OTC for around $70 i am told

OTC 6667

Awesome. Thanks

According to Mitchel the new ABS module will require programming. I couldn't find much in the way of diagnostics other that DTC's. Nothing concerning the pump always running. 

What puller do you use to get the crank pulley off? No way ours will fit in there. Took 3.5 hours to get to this point.

How did you go about getting at the front cover? Guy next to me has the whole front clip off to get the front cover off a 3.5L Ecoboost Transit. WSM is down so we have no idea if this is how it's listed.

Another "What's wrong with this picture?" I cracked the lines before noticing it.

Various EGT sensors, finished up 3 DEF tank heaters, 09 F550 bed plate reseal. 2015 that shut down during regen, P060A PCM processor fault and all 8 injectors high to low side short.

Yup...Done a few myself, same situation. 

The sole function of the clip is to keep the rocker arm assembly together during installation, After that it just goes along for the ride. The only thing that can cause them to break is incorrect installation(which isn't a big deal if there are no other issues, I have released many a 6L with out putting the clips on) or play in the rocker somewhere. The 6L is more prone to camshaft or roller lifter failures, or sticky valves. Rocker tip failures are rare.

It should work. Aftermarket down pipes fit all MY 6L pick-ups. No reason why the factory one won't. 

 

The block has some pretty bad gouge marks from a roloc disc but it's otherwise flat. I hate those damn discs. You go through all that trouble to make sure the heads are flat then you grind on the deck like its got the tolerances of an exhaust manifold.

Not to sound dumb... but what do you use?

 

I start with a brass scraper and brake cleaner, then the scotch brite pad, then finish off what's left with a straight razor blade. 

It's actually faster to remove a DEF tank without lifting the truck. That's including the fuel tank skid plate.

When I took them out the rubber seal on the low temp(192F) one wasn't contacting the seat, so it was stuck open. No obvious signs of damage or contamination. Coolant is clean. There was anaerobic sealer on the rubber gasket though, last place that did them seems to go over board with putting that stuff on everything they put back together for some reason. Doubt that is the cause of failure though. He has been having blend door issues with this thing for awhile too, I now wonder if he inadvertently overheated it trying to keep some heat in the cab. And it's tuned, so no codes.

Anyone run into multiple thermostat failures? Customer has never complained about it running hot. It comes in with failed thermostats, they get replaced, engine cooling system is verified good, and given back to the customer. He says it's good for a month or so, then goes bad again. This time same thing, also had a very erratic Fan speed senor signal, new fan clutch fixed the signal, but it still only reaches 136 F and EOT is 145 F, and the hoses are hot. Verified both the temperatures with a laser temperature gun. The truck is coming back later for the thermostats, I would like to have some kind of game plan when it comes back. Any thoughts?

It is very confusing to say the least. You should see the 2 story Canadian Tire superstore that went up in south Edmonton. That place is huge. The service department is twice the size as the normal stores. It has a 5 or 6 door breezeway. Each lane has it's own quick alignment check set up. They are never busy. Plus there is a Kal Tire right behind them that is always busy. 

It's definitely in the software. I have a suspicion that you can't change it. Most tuners have the ability to change speed limiters. You'd have to contact them to be sure.

Only input I can share is when in this situation and injectors are confirmed not to be leaking, is that the HPFP always looks "cleaner" than usual, and I have always been able to confirm a small film of fuel all over it. Never figured out where they leak, but it's easy to tell that they were.