lmorris
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Posts posted by lmorris
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If there are no signs of contaminants in the fuel I would SPW the injector. Who knows who Ford has rebuilding these things now. I've seen it before. You didn't mention the codes. Any injector circuit codes? The under valve cover harnesses can give you issues with pin fit sometimes. Something to think about.
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My past experience with smelly coolant were mostly restricted oil coolers. Not always a bad EGR cooler. I would advise changing both anyways if it is the oil cooler. As far as head gaskets go...they usually blow out all the coolant so there's nothing to get stinky.
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Here's one from a few weeks ago. 2018 F150. Whipple blower and headers!!
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Just finished a phase 1 670 HP Roush install on a 2015 Mustang.
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We had something similar happen here. Some random guy in coveralls walked into our service department and asked for keys to a specific vehicle to get some stuff out of it for work. When he never came back with the keys they went looking for him and found the truck gone.
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On 4/9/2019 at 8:56 AM, lraffe1 said:
I am now thinking it may be inter cooler leaking boost into cooling system
The charge air cooler is on the secondary cooling system. It wouldn't affect the primary system.
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My guess is it was run with DEF in the tank and not properly flushed before replacing anything. Remove the lines from the upper filter and let them sit for a few hours and see if DEF crystals are evident in the line.
If it's a leaking injector, you only need to run the low pressure pump to see which one is leaking.
Here is the procedure:
M15 : CHECK FOR FUEL INJECTOR RETURN LEAKS - Ignition OFF.
- Wait 2 minutes.
- Disconnect the low pressure fuel supply line from the fuel injector return line fitting.
- Disconnect the fuel injector return line fitting from the secondary fuel filter.
- Using a suitable clear container, catch any fuel that pours from the fuel return line.
- Connect the low pressure fuel supply line to the secondary fuel filter.
- Ignition ON, engine OFF.
- Access the PCM and control the FPL_CMD (MODE) PID.
- Command the fuel pump ON.
- Does fuel come out of the fuel return line?
M16 : CHECK THE LEFT BANK FUEL INJECTOR RETURN LINE FOR A LEAKING FUEL INJECTOR - Find where the fuel injector return line from the left bank and right bank meet together and using hose locking pliers, pinch the line from the right bank.
- Access the PCM and control the FPL_CMD (MODE) PID.
- Command the fuel pump ON.
- Does fuel come out of the fuel return line?
Yes DISCONNECT the fuel injector return lines from the left bank of fuel injectors. CONNECT four suitable fuel hoses to the fuel injector return ports on all of the fuel injectors on the left bank. Using a suitable clear container, catch any fuel that pours from the fuel injector return hoses. Run the low pressure fuel pump while observing which fuel injector is leaking from the fuel injector return hose. INSTALL a new Fuel Injector for the cylinder in which the leaking fuel injector was observed. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303-04, Fuel Charging and Controls. CARRY OUT the Reset And Clear The Specified Function Reset Minimum Fuel Mass Adaptions For Cylinder X on the scan tool for the affected cylinder. REFER to Section 2, Clear The Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) And Reset The Emission Monitors Information in The Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
No DISCONNECT the fuel injector return lines from the right bank of fuel injectors. CONNECT four suitable fuel hoses to the fuel injector return ports on all of the fuel injectors on the right bank. Using a suitable clear container, catch any fuel that pours from the fuel injector return hoses. Run the low pressure fuel pump while observing which fuel injector is leaking from the fuel injector return hose. INSTALL a new Fuel Injector for the cylinder in which the leaking fuel injector was observed. REFER to the Workshop Manual Section 303-04, Fuel Charging and Controls. CARRY OUT the Reset And Clear The Specified Function Reset Minimum Fuel Mass Adaptions For Cylinder X on the scan tool for the affected cylinder. REFER to Section 2, Clear The Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) And Reset The Emission Monitors Information in The Powertrain Control Module (PCM
Courtesy of Ford.
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No, it has not been verified, truck is 1 province over from me currently. It does have the CCV collar, I installed it the first time it came in. EGR by-pass is all good. Will look into other sensors when it gets back. Who knows, maybe the owner will take it in to a B.C. dealer and they might fix it!!
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Customer drove the truck for 4 days, on his way through B.C. and the light came back on.
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Replaced the MAP sensor and all is good. Always set after 45 minutes of driving.
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I've actually been told by an engineer to keep replacing EGR valves until you get one that passes the test, went through 3 before it passed the EGR test......All Ford new ones. This was before they started remanufacturing them.
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I have leak tested this thing twice and taken the intake side apart once, no leaks found. Performed the reprogram and reset MAF. Replaced a slightly biased EP sensor. Checked the EP sensor tube for restrictions. Tried a known good MAF. Replaced the EGR valve. Inspected the MAP. Inspected the throttle plate. Nothing fixes this thing. Any ideas? Also I was certain the throttle plate was never used to encourage EGR flow, has this been changed?
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Anyone run into one yet that actually failed? I have one here with both screws fallen out and one of the screw's heads broke off and it's missing. Still waiting on Hotline to review the request for what to do next.
Edit: Found the missing screw head lodged in the cooler. Took a bit of shaking to dislodge it though, I almost gave up on finding it. Recommendation was, that if the piece is not found and there is no engine noise, then recall is to be completed and vehicle released to the customer.
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Does a 2000 F150 PCM even store the VIN? I was scanning a 2000 F250 on Friday with the IDS and there was no VIN listed on the main screen. Granted it was a 7.3L diesel, not sure if that matters though.
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I HAVE A CUSTOMER HERE THAT HAS 3 CRACKED INJECTOR SOLENOIDS WHERE THE CONNECTOR IS. THESE ARE PERFORMANCE INJECTORS BUT HAVE STOCK SOLENOIDS ON TOP. THE CUSTOMER HAS RECORDED THE SOLENOID NUMBERS OF THE INSTALLED INJECTORS AND IS GOING TO COMPARE THEM TO HIS STOCK ONES. IF THEY ARE THE SAME NUMBER, WHAT IS INVOLVED IN SWAPPING THE 3 BROKEN ONES? DO I NEED ANY TYPE OF GASKET KIT AND CAN THEY BE DONE IN HEAD?
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I remove the 3 bolts that secure the smaller black tube and move it back enough to get on the small EGR mounting bolt on the bottom. I disconnect the quick connect hose from the black tube and the hose at the front of the cooler only. I also leave the dipstick tube in place and only remove the bolt that secures it to the EGR valve.
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On 11/2/2018 at 1:48 PM, Chad_Kelsoe said:
Well I was gonna say the power points , but it appears the BCM controls the relays for the power points. The only thing I can find is the up fitter switches are not controlled through a module, but still receive their power through fuses in the BJB and BCM.
The Up-fitter switches ARE a module...LOL
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I'm still around, just not working on diesels much since I moved dealerships. Mostly gas engine repair and vehicle safety inspections and repair.
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" On behalf of myself and Harold and the whole gang up here at Possum Lodge, keep your stick on the ice."
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I purchased a 2011 GMC Terrain SLE. It has the TMPS light that proves out in the cluster and stays off. Funny thing is there are no sensors in the wheels. Everything I can find about the system states there should be sensors in the wheels. Nothing states that the system may be optional on this vehicle. Does anyone know why this is? The VIN is 2CTFLTEC1B6264655. Thanks.
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I have been struggling with disconnecting the DEF filler tube on the new body style trucks until a few minutes ago. I discovered that my Blue Point fan clutch wrench YA9325-1 is the right size to compress the release tabs at the tank.
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Does he still have a job there?
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41 minutes ago, Chad_Kelsoe said:
But current building size will only support 1 tech right now.
Wow. Small town dealer? Our shop has 15 hoists. and 2 flat bays. 11 techs.
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We've hit our slow time of the year. Two weeks ago I watched a few YouTube videos and saved myself over $1000 in labour by replacing my back entry door myself, after finding the frame and floor were rotten during a storm door removal. My latest watches include windows and roofing. I have 5 more windows to replace, hopefully I'll have them done before the snow falls and next spring I plan on replacing my shingles. If the automotive repair industry here keeps this up I may have to start up a handyman service to fill in.
2018 f150 5L, no flow to heater core at idle.
in All Gasoline Engines
Posted
Earlier this year this had the heater core replaced and cooling system flushed for the obvious reason. A few months later the truck came back with a lack of heat complaint. Technician couldn't verify the lack of heat but did find that the water pump was leaking. The water pump was replaced, cooling system bled and truck returned. Comes back now with lack of heat control. HVAC tech found and replaced a faulty temp. door motor. On the road test he noticed the heat drops off at idle. That's when I get it. Initial testing led to plugged heater core. Hotline confirmed and instructed us to replace the heater core again and flush the system, which I did. Still has issue. Digging further I found that I have not enough flow to the heater core at idle, off idle is fine. I ran separate heater hoses to verify it was not a restriction in the existing hoses. Pulled the water pump for inspection thinking the impeller was loose, water pump is good. Put it all back together and bled the system again per WSM. Not fixed. Using a infrared temp. gun on the block revealed heat inconsistencies on right head at idle. Hotline instructed to remove heads and inspect for restrictions in the coolant passages of the block and heads. Nothing was found.
Anyone have any insight as to what could be going on?