lmorris

You are correct. The outer edge of the flexplate is the tone ring.

Pull the crank sensor and inspect the tone ring on the flywheel. If you already haven't. We had one that would just quit for no reason, turned out the tone ring was rusty and there was a chunk of metal on the sensor.

#6 piston decided to make its way down to the oil pan.

Using the Electric vehicle battery removal table makes these a breeze. One section of the table slides, perfect for seperation of transmission with sliding it on the pan.

Other diesel tech has an E350 no start. Fuel pressure is low, around 35 psi cranking. ICP is slow to build and does reach 1500 psi. Once it reaches 1500 psi the engine starts making a loud clacking noise that seems to follow the injector firing order. The turbo is dusted and he is getting ready to do a manual compression test. Anyone have any ideas on what may be causing the loud clacking noise. It is not the same as a low fuel pressure cackle. It sounds too mechanical. And not slow enough to be valve train. Update. He pulled the upper filter and found what looks like salt. Possibly Def, and a lot of rust. He had one valve cover off and decided to pull 2 injectors. Both are black in the fuel section. Problem found. Internally, the injectors must be hammering. Manual compression on one cylinder, 250 psi, and that's not the one that relative compression flagged as 7% low.

Only thing I do different is I remove the EGR cooler to get at the right bank injectors instead of going through the inner fender well. As far as making time, there are no short cuts, just experience.

There is a TSB for reprogramming that applies to 2018 MY F-series. 19-2083.

6F35 out of a 2018 Edge. Broken differential center pin, resulting in the pin gouging the inside of the transmission case and the resulting metal plugged the filter, which took out every bearing, bushing and clutch. Tried to get pictures of the diff, but my phone won't focus properly on the broken pin.

So I received this email over the weekend. I used to own a 2013 Escape. No longer own it because it was written off. I'm a little disturbed by this e-mail in a couple of ways. It seems they have the email addresses of everyone that purchased vehicles in 2013 and 2014. That bugs me. Secondly, I never had any issues with fuel economy, I also know, as a tech, that the numbers set by the manufacturer's are very hard to duplicate in everyday driving.

If it wasn't for the last sentence, I'd swear you were bragging.

So far, short block, seperator plate and a torque converter. Can't see any signs of wear to the transmission front support. No codes. Fluid is good. Waiting on a Hotline response concerning the need to tear down the transmission.

2020 Explorer Police unit. Complaint of loud grinding then no forward or reverse.

The truck was towed in not running. After much diagnosis, I found the turbo shaft broken, exhaust impeller jammed into the housing, intake compressor wheel flopping around and the compressor housing full of oil. It ran with the cold side CAC hose and exhaust disconnected. Replaced the turbo, cleaned CAC, pipes and both intakes. Ran good until it started to knock🤪🤔🤣. Managed to hide the lack of maintenance so we can get the turbo covered, not so sure about the engine. Waiting for service records now. Truck left on a tow truck.

So the 10R80'S are having the same issue? I've had a few with funky shifts and found scored clutch valves but still were a little iffy after a new main control. Wonder when they'll be back.

Change oil much??

Yes you can, we do it all the time. State PCM is already at latest calibration. They go through.

Funny thing now is the PowerBoost door emblem is easily mistaken for the Powerstroke one🤣🤪. I thought we were getting a lot of Powerstokes. They are mostly PowerBoosts.

I have always used 6781 for upper oil pans, regardless of warranty coverage.

Any ideas on what MY this comes into effect? We just recieved a 2021 F150 Powerstroke.

2016 Focus, 59000 km with the worst clutch failure I have seen. We tried and tried and can't get the clutch to seperate from the input shaft.

I only have had one 10r140 so far with engagement issues, new valve body fixed that one. I have done a few 10r60's and 80's that have needed valve bodies. Had one 10R60 with a burnt intermediate clutch, only had 8500 KM on it.

Sadly it's a pre-production vehicle and will be scrapped 😟.

Our parts manager's on going project truck. Has a new high stall converter and is setting TC clutch codes. Replacing the main control under TSB first before putting another TC in it.

The back seat of my 2010 Focus can handle 550 lbs of gravel.

Correct me if I'm wrong, aren't the drums on those part of the wheel hub? If so, how the hell are the wheels on it???