lmorris

Might be worth a look.

I took my old spark plug wire removers and modified the ends to do the same thing for removing fuel lines and the DEF tank hoses.

Sadly, you would been charged with assault. Funny how that works. I try to ignore them but find myself messing with them anyways. I like to make people texting at lights think the light changed green(only when it won't cause an accident). Then laugh at the guy.

There have been a few articles floating around on this topic. One that I read stated even the Honda Accord, stated as the worlds best selling sedan, sales have been dropping off in favor of the SUV/CUV market. I see more SUVS on the road that sedans anymore. Most sedans around my area are either owned by rental companies or the retired. Even local law enforcement are using the Explorer and F150.

Reduced by .002" and brought it up to 33 inch/pounds.

On a side note, I am currently rebuilding one of these. Does anyone have a rule of thumb for changing pinion bearing preload shims to change preload? I followed the WSM and reused the original shims, I am at 10 inch/pounds. Spec is 20-40.

Found this in WSM.

CEL,IVS, I think ABS.

Thanks for the info. We are trading cars for a few days. I will try the VSA first. This had both rear calipers replaced when the problem with the brakes started.

Remember the good old days when: ...the vehicle you were road testing left you stranded and you had to foot it back to the shop to get help? Sucks when you left your jacket back at the shop in the winter!

My brother in laws 2009 Civic Si, 2.0L 6 spd, coupe, has become my project now. The car has some very odd issues. After a bit of driving his rear wheels heat up. Sometimes it's both rear wheels, sometimes only one. This coincides with some network issues as well, all warning lights on cluster, audio system acting up(volume increases on it's own, switches through modes on it's own, sometimes just shutting down completely or no sound at all). I have experienced the network issues and at first thought it was possibly cause by the sticking switch pack on his steering wheel. The heating issue with the rear brakes I did not, although it did feel like the rear brakes were slightly grabbing at first, then felt normal as I drove into work, which is a thirty minute highway drive. I figured if it was dragging brakes, this would show up for sure. Nothing except for the network. I've checked and confirmed the E-brake is releasing properly. The hydraulic system seems to be working to. Backed off the adjustment on the E-brake just to be sure. Drove home and it was fine. My brother in law picks up the car, drives 10 minutes through the city to his house and texts me that his rear tires are hot again. He has had the car into Honda and a couple of Honda specialized shops and no-one seems to be able to pinpoint the cause. I have limited access to diagnostic tools here for this car. We have the Snap-on Solace scanner. I am starting to think the ABS module may be the source of my issues. Any thoughts on the subject are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Most likely it's accessibility for cleaning the deck surface. The F150 was the same way. Remove the engine to pull the heads because you couldn't properly clean the block with it in chassis.

The mind is a powerful thing. Especially when you are expecting something to mess up. After sitting for a week after the engine replacement, the customer picked up his 2017 F250, drove it home last night and came back this morning complaining his brakes were spongy. I drove it, felt normal to me. brought it in the shop. Checked the vacuum booster, all good. For the hell of it I bled the master cylinder, no air, bled at the wheels, no air. Gave it back to the customer, he drove it home, called us and thanked us fixing it.

We managed to buy one from a dealer in Ontario. Surprised they gave it up.

Just a heads up guys, the 3.5L Ecoboost oil pans are now REMOVE AND DISCARD.

2017 F250, 6.7L 4885 Km's. Replacing the engine because #2 and #6 (same throw) connecting rod bearings spun and jammed the pistons up into the heads. Poor thing never got to experience it's first oil change.

Are you plugged into something that is T'd into the factory DLC? We get a lot of trucks with GPS units that plug into the DLC and you can't run a lot of reset functions if you are plugged into the GPS unit's connector.

It could just be the fact that the original customer complaint was an oil leak and not engine noise. I'm sure that once the parts are inspected it will not be an issue. They are a little funny when the repair doesn't match the customer concern.

Never had an issue with clearance going back in. Just let the pan slide on the cross-member and keep it level so the front of the pan doesn't tilt up. Having someone at the front to help lift it into place works better than when I was doing it myself. The guys here at my new employer are a lot more willing to led a hand when needed. Just remember that the 2018's require engine removal now. I have seen 2 with leaks starting, so far. None have come back for the repair yet though.

It was a driver issue on the laptop. We have a couple of "roaming IDS laptops in the shop. I had used one of them and tried to use the printer in my bay. Must not have had the correct drivers installed even though the PC actually saw the correct printer. I reran the tests on my in-bay laptop and they printed no problems.

With Ford's CPO program I need to print off the IDS log view for each one I inspect. However, I can't seem to figure out how to do it. IDS can see the printer, but when I choose one of the print options nothing happens. I'd rather not take screen shots as these log views can get long. Anyone have any luck with this?

That time of 11.8 hrs ONLY covers the pump and injectors. Below that are times for fuel filters, conditioning module, fuel line cleaning and fuel tank removal. Add that all up and you easily can get 17 HRS, which is more than enough time.

Mine works now. Not sure what I was doing differently, I may have had PTS open on the vehicle ID screen the first time I tried. Here is what Ford sent me: We saw your concern submitted regarding FDRS and connectivity to the VCM II. Please note that FDRS cannot be opened and in use while IDS is also in use, as they both will “steal” the VCM II from each other. In addition, FDRS cannot be used while the “Read VIN and DTC’s” button is selected from PTS. However, PTS can be open while FDRS or IDS is open, you just cannot use the Read VIN and DTC’s button. The same goes for the VCI manager. If you have not already done so, please ensure that your IDS is updated to level 107.03. If not, please uninstall FDRS and update IDS. Once updated, please open IDS and validate your license, once completed, download and install FDRS and this will automatically obtain the license to IDS. If you encounter any other concerns, please respond back to this email. Thank you, Travis Ford Diagnosis and Repair System Team

Same with me.

We have had some come in with over 90% gasoline that quit running. Drain and flush, waive all liabilities and send them on their way. Just make sure you cover your ass. It seems to be hit and miss. Some are fine, some come back.