lmorris

I've seen guys remove front shock towers on 90's pickups to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts and use high grade bolts to put them back on. Plus there was the frame noise recall on the 90's pickups that had you drill out the rivets and install bolts as well. Don't see why you couldn't make it work on your frame replacement.

I seem to remember that there are 3 sensors in that pedal, the 3rd you can't monitor. I also seem to remember having one that was similar and I think it was the pedal. This issue seems very familiar to me.

A few of us here have decided that changing the DEF pump on the 2017 MY can be done without removing the tank. When we get one and are able to test the theory I will get some pictures.

Just finished putting a 5.4L in a 2008 F250. 383,000 KM. 14920 hours. 2017 Mustang that grinds into 3RD when shifting at 6000 RPM

They made the holes smaller for the 6L and 6.4L so as to provide a more accurate reading. Use the 7.3L specs. Remember to disconnect the CAC tubes to eliminate the chance of a bad turbo messing the readings as well. If you are pushing 5 inches with the 7.3 adapter, I would say you have an issue. 3" is max for a 7.3L.

You must have been doing something wrong, PTS NEVER screws up...

Notice the disclaimer at the bottom of the page stating it's an ad and not an "Actual news article". Whoever published that article is just as "Shady" as the mechanics they claim to save you from... IMHO.

No matter how many clutch packs I replace, No matter how times I smack my forehead, No matter how many times I tell myself "This is the last time!", I always forget to let the new clutches soak whilst I disassemble the diff.

This one is not an Ecoboost. It's a flexfuel 3.5L. Maybe the guy thought flexfuel meant it could run on diesel.

My 3.5L with 9000 KM's on it is so carboned up that one piston was hitting the build up on the head. We took a sample of the fuel and it has either diesel in it, or some kind of additive that shouldn't be there. It's way too oily and burned black when lit, and left an oily residue on the floor.

Just finished a torque converter in a 2016 F150 with a 5L. That was a nice bowl of gravy, I must say.

Mine is not an EcoBoost. Bottom end is good, cams are not scored, no metal in the pan. Suspecting pistons or cylinder wall issues now.

2017 F150 3.5L with 9300 KM's and a bottom end knock. Currently removing the engine.

The last oil pan/rear main seal I just did came back with CEL on, P02D2 and P02D8 in memory. There is TSB 16-0064 for this that I have performed on other trucks, but none of those were following an oil pan re-seal. Anyone else run into this? I have done many of these oil pans and this is the only the second one that has done this. Nowhere in the WSM does it say to reset anything after this repair.

That's good to hear.

I noticed Mitchell On-Demand now has a labour time for the fuel contamination repair. 17.4 hours depending on combinations. Currently doing a DEF contamination repair. Decided to remove the EGR cooler this time and leave the inner fenders in place.

Is it ok?

Finally, after having a few under my belt, moving to a different dealership, and letting the truck sit in my bay overnight so all the oil is in the pan, I beat warranty time by an hour.

I seem to recall that TSB's are not applicable with parts replacement warranty, only factory warranties.

F150 3.5L turbo right side. Focus clutch 2 Focus TCM's Crap ton of PDI's, used vehicle inspections and commercial vehicle inspections. Worked on a few 6.7L's. One in particular had 2 back to back turbos put in at my last employer shortly after I left there, it came to us with a plugged MAP sensor.

Good to know. Customer hasn't come back yet, so don't know if this one is fixed.

Just finished a rear gear set on a 2016 F150 with only 1400 KM's on it, for an apparent vibration. I didn't do any of the diagnosis, the tech that looked at it didn't do any rear diff diagnosis either. Someone in management called the gear set. They road tested after and said "It drives smooth, but I never really felt the vibration in the first place." Our shop foreman is leaning more towards the torque converter because it only happens when the trans is hot and torque is locked and changes with engine RPM....I got that info after I finished the gear set.

The Maintenance Pricing System link on the right side of FMC in the Application Bar has all you need to know, including labor times.

Nothing chaps my ass more than when customers intentionally leave out information about past repairs, usually because they are too embarrassed to admit they tried to do it themselves and didn't do it correctly. I hope you charged this guy for all the time you had into it.

If you follow the actual flush procedure in the WSM it is quite labor intensive. I performed it once according to the WSM and have never done it again since. If it's a maintenance flush I will drain the primary system, fill with water, run, drain, repeat, then fill with 14L straight coolant and top up with water. If you get creative with the hose you can flush out the secondary system in a matter of 20 minutes. All said and done 2 hours.