lmorris

That's pretty good, we priced one out for a customer at $2880 ish.

I had an FQR 6L 2 years ago that had the two piece with the support bracket. If you do the math, that's well past the 2007 release. We quickly fixed that.

Those are freaking hilarious. I have never seen that before. That's worse than the old chrysler engines where you had to drain the coolant from the block before you took off the exhaust manifolds, and then you got to put sealer on the new bolts or you get a coolant leak.

Did you hit PMI by mistake to get the install new module message? Been there, done that. Just because it's a fleet truck doesn't mean it didn't get tuned. I have seen fleet trucks come in for a reprogram and the driver flips out because we erased his tune and now the tuner is useless.

Maybe that's their way of telling you to stay away from the porn....

What is the EOT reading when cold?

Check installed programs to see if you have any Samsung wireless manager software and delete it. Go into services and make sure WLAN config is running. Then restart. Should help. I also have my firewall turned off and run Microsoft security essentials. Mine is a Windows 7, 64 bit system as well. HP Touchsmart tm2 laptop. More of a netbook though as it has no optical drive.

I am meaning after you changed the oil and got it running, not by the customer. Typically the customer won't drive it hard enough. If glowplugs, batteries, starter and ICP voltage all checks, go bag the piss out of it. I only suggest this because we had in 3 trucks in the past 2 weeks from an aircraft fuelling company that sat for a long time and this is what we had to do to get them to start normal.

How long have you driven it since getting it started? Sometimes you need to give them a good 20 minutes of hard driving to get them back to normal after sitting for awhile.

What laptop are you running Mike? Check for third party wireless managers. If you have any delete them. Then check to make sure windows wireless manager is running. If you are running a windows 7 machine it is called WLAN autoconfig. Type services in the run bar in the start menu to find it.

The only thing on the 2003 6L you need to worry about is the back bolt on the turbo mount. It goes in horizontal and can be a bugger to loosen. Search the threads, there are a lot of good tricks posted for this bolt. If the truck is a regular or extended cab, remove the first and second set of cab mounts, loosen necessary stuff under the hood and tilt up the cab, then you can leave the turbo in place and sneak the pipes out the side.

Not too long ago we finally had the 220 run to plug in our new tire machine. We decided on a nice place for all the tire equipment, but overlooked one small detail. Just 20 minutes ago the pressure washer overflowed and dumped water everywhere, including on our new 220 volt tire machine, which is directly below....OOPS...

12s39 on a 2013 Escape.....2 actually.

If you follow the workshop manual, you are told to do this.

What are you doing this on that you need to remove the left mount? It sounds like you are not doing a cab lift. I would at least try to tilt the front of the cab up, it makes getting at the rear head bolt on the left side a lot easier. F-series you just have to remove the evap case to make room for the right head. E-series you have to pull the engine.

With the exchange, duty and shipping to Canada, I doubt the savings would be worth the wait.

All for $102.

Smoking is my guess. Do we win anything if we guess right? How many guesses do we get? Did I win?

Isn't that some kind of prerequisite for being a 6L diesel tech.

Went smooth, got new bearings as well. Not sure how everyone else does it, but I used the lower bed plate as a cradle and lowered the crankshaft till it cleared the cam gear. Thanks for the heads up on the lifters Mike. Dropped the price buy $600 using the "kit".

Aaron: I sure hope you are joking about the flange removal. It is getting a camshaft because on roller started to flat spot and did enough damage to the camshaft, but not enough to spew metal throughout the engine to warrant replacing it. 292900 KMs on the odometer. blown99: Thanks for the reply, although I don't see the need to replace the main bearings. I have done dozens of bedplate gasket jobs on both 6L and 6.4L and never replaced the main bearings. Anyone else want to throw in an opinion about the main bearings as I have not seen any documentation on the necessity of this.

Doing my first camshaft on monday. Just wondering if anyone can provide some tips for r&r or some things to watch out for. I know I have to lift the crankshaft out of the way. Will it come up far enough with all the rods attached? I was thinking I would turn it nose down with the heavy duty stand and just drop it in.

I have an early 2009 in my bay that has the newest design rear main seal. Can anyone tell me if all 6.4L engines came with this seal factory or where they updated mid-production? The shifter boot(manual transmission in this puppy) is broken and it looks like someone has been into this thing to either remove the transmission or lift the cab. The customer claims we have done all servicing to this truck and is upset he has to pay for the new boot. Early on in this trucks life it was at Millenium Ford in WA for $6600 of outside labour, then went to auction, and was picked up by us and sold to the customer. This one has me perplexed.

Mike is just more vocal of his hatred for these outcasts of the diesel world.

It's been a long time, but I have seen two other aftermarket options. One is a variable resistor tied into the AP sensor wiring to simulate the pedal, the other was a physical connection to the pedal that depressed it via a screw and rod set-up. You may have to do some digging to find them though.