lmorris

In the bay, the cooler doesn't have to work hard to get EGT down. It's a differant story when the engine has been worked hard. I would pull the EGR valve and bypass off and have a peek at the cooler. I too have done a few coolers that don't set P2457, only P0401 in CMDTCs.

They carried too much speed and overshot their intended landing. Last I read the guys are okay and the owner is taking it back to his shop to convert it into a rally truck.

After my last engine replacement, I realized that the first bad pump turned real easy compared to the new one and the one on the second engine. Something to keep in mind.

Found a few time savers and unnecessary procedures if you don't want to lift the cab. Remove the degas bottle and air filter housing before you remove the cooler module, makes it easier to get at all the push pins on hoses and harness. Do not remove the ECM and bracket. Do not remove the two firewall ground straps by the ECM. You can leave the plastic harness holder attached to the right battery tray. Remove the fan and the support bracket as a unit. Remove the EGR cooler before and install after the turbo and pipes, makes work easier. Leave the oil pan on, just be careful. You do not have to loosen any body mounts, there is enough clearance. I will line up the first torque converter nut then evenly mark the balancer in 8 spots to get the rest.

Never seen a GM parts guy set up in a police station before...none the less, very funny.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/111717275116289870961/posts/4kdBTqYgoyy Not sure if you need a Google plus account, but you have to watch this video.

Just dropped one in WITH the oil pan on. Not sure if having the transmission out (noticed a front pump leak when the engine was out) makes a difference (doubt it). You just have to watch the A/C tube that goes over the EGR cooler.

As we all know, as of today, the Canadian penny is no longer made and will be worked out of circulation. As a result, we Canadians should also make sure we no longer use the "my 2 cents worth" emote or phrase. I ask Keith if he would possibly look into a "my 5 cents" Emote for us. Thanks for your cooperation.

Sounds like real life Mad Max.

Mitchell shows a tool but no number. Google searches seem to point to the tool coming with the seal. There is a write up in a Cummins diesel forum with pics. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07-5-09-3rd-gen-6-7l-powertrain/90650-rear-main-seal.html

Thanks for the info. There is a wave washer similar to those in auto transmissions in there that looks good. I had to compress it to get the snap ring back in place. With the PTFE lube it seems to be better. I think I will take it apart again and use air tool oil on assembly. The two little springs under the little balls did seem a little sticky, maybe that is the issue. Again thanks.

My air ratchet, Aircat AC802R, started doing something weird yesterday. In reverse, when there is not load or resistance on a fastener it stops turning. Put it on a tight fastener or one that has some resistance and it works fine. In forward there is no concern. Anyone have much experience or knowledge of repairing these. I took the head apart and it looks fine didn't tear it right down to the ratcheting mechanism though. Could it just be sticky in the one direction. If so, what is a good lube for the heads. There is nothing listed in my papers for the tool. Oil seems to light and bearing grease seems to heavy. Would PTFE lubricant be sufficient?

What about the service writer that says "Oh ya, I know what's wrong. You need this, this and this, and it will cost you this much."

+1 ^^^^^

Update......Pump is buggered. Might have been the cause of the start and stall when it originally came in. Wonder if that and the spun rod bearings have something in common or just a total fluke. Anyways, now it MT to replace the pump. I cracked the line on #4 and had fuel instantly, veru little air. Sounds like the cold line was full of air on this one. Update: new pump fixed it right up. That most likely was the cause of the start stall issue. Gotta love it when a buggered engine masks other concerns. I was starting to thing it was something I did wrong.

Best deal I ever saw involved buying an early 70's Nova with a 350 and a mid 70's chevy 3/4 ton with a 454. Needless to say the engines were swapped and the 3/4 ton was sold. My assisant manager at the time, drove the Nova for awhile, holy crap that was a fast car. Then sold it to some young buck with a wad of cash in his pocket. He actually made over $1000 in the deal.

Number 4 is the furthest injector from the pump if you follow the fuel lines. they go from the pump to the left rail, then over to the right rail. At least the left rail has the return line port you can disconnect, that one is easy to bleed.

Remember when we were constantly replacing the big high pressure oil rail plugs on the front of the head of the 7.3L. It was like they all failed at once, then we never ever saw one leak again. It's the universes way of making sure we get good enough at something to start making some decent time on them, then it gets ready to throw something else at us.

We had one of our overhead exhaust fans quit on us about a month ago. Over the last 4 days we have had a plumber and 2 electricians come in to look at it. The first guy, who was a plumber, was part of the crew that installed the exhaust fans and air make up/heater units. He said it was an electrical issue because he had no power to the motor. Next in comes the electrician, he gets power up to the motor, but burns out 5 overload protectors in the process. Next day in comes a second electrician to check all the wiring from the control panel to the motor. He determines the motor is bad and keeps overloading the circuit. Tomorrow the plumber has to come back in to change the motor.

Crap..I hope that wasn't one of my posts... ... ....

We have taken to instructing customers to wash off the top of the tank on a regular basis now.

Hotline wants me to crack #4 injector and crank till I get fuel coming out, then tighten and attempt to start. If it does I am then to replace the line and continue on my merry way. If not I am to replace the line and the HP pump. Doing some 6.4L bedplates in the meantime, will post later with the fix.

We have been doing them like that for awhile with out removing the starter,leave the A/C compressor bolted but remove the 2 lines instead. Even works for doing the right side manifold on a 6.4L.

Last one that I did had the covulate on the wires, no blue straps, was a factory job, and the wires still rubbed through because the convulate was in the wrong place and not protecting the wires......

You had to say that huh?..Curse you, thats what the PPT led to.