Fordracer

I semi-retired in 2017 at the age of 55 like I said I would in my post on this topic. I work out of my shop at home for an average of 6 hours a day and make a lot more money than I ever did at the dealership. One of the best decisions I've ever made.

I Guess so. That's why I waited to post the fix because I had my doubts.

I've had deleted truck mess up the vref because when they unhook the exhaust sensors the open connectors can corrode and short wires together.

I have a 6.4 that most of the time when you take off from a stop the fan is engaged for a little while. I monitored the fan pids while driving and when you let off the throttle and coast for about 4 seconds the fan duty cycle goes to 74.6% for about 2 seconds and then when you accelerate the fan is engaged for a little while and will go over 2,000 RPM. The coolant, oil, and trans temperatures are well below what will turn the fan on and the A/C is off. What could trigger the duty cycle to come on while coasting? I've never noticed on 6.4's but I know 6.0's turn the fan off at idle so I don't understand why the 6.4 is, especially when the temps are low.

I had him take it to the dealer to get an FSE involved. They finally tracked it down to an injector harness and it's been 6 months with no issue. I've never had an injector harness causse this or know why it would.

I've been fighting this one for a year now, luckily he is a good customer. It has the typical hick up going down the road where the PCM shuts down for less than a second and the water in fuel and glow plug lights come on and prove out and the cruise turns off and has to be turned back on to work. The only thing different about this one than all the others I've had doing this is that sometimes when starting it after sitting overnight it takes three try's before it will start or if it starts it will die when put in gear. When I have the IDS hooked up monitoring PIDS and try to start it and it doesn't start I loose communication but when I release the key it comes back until I try to start it again and this will happen three times when it's acting up. I replaced the ignition switch, PCM relay, and an engine harness that came with the injector harness last summer. Last fall I replaced the aftermarket FICM he had on it in case it was doing something weird and it stopped acting up all winter. Now it started doing it again and more often and now it's setting codes P2614, P2617, P0299, before it wouldn't set any codes. Now I'm unhooking every VREF sensor one at a time and testing it but sometimes it won't do it for two or three days so this is a long process. Every truck that I've had that hick ups going down the road an engine harness fixed them but this one acts a little bit different. Has anyone seen this before? BTW, This truck only has 122,000 miles on and I've worked on it since it was new.

I had the gauge hooked up when I bled it and it dropped almost to 0 psi.

I have a 2008 6.4 with 320,000 miles that the customer has to bleed the air out of the upper fuel filter housing to get it to run at times and now he can't get it to stay running after he bleeds it. It has a P2291 hard fault. After I got it I monitored the FRP and you have to crank it a long time before it starts to build pressure and then it starts and dies. I bled the high pressure fuel system and a lot of air came out and now it runs fine. Now for the weird part. I was monitoring the low pressure fuel system and koeo it has 3.5 psi but when you start it it jumps to 15 psi and if you rev it up it goes to 20 psi. Now for the second weird part, 15 to 20 seconds after you shut it off it pulls a 2 inch vacuum and holds it for hours. The longer it sits the longer you have to crank it to start it. I'm going to let it set over night and see what it does. I have never seen this before. If the high pressure system is somehow bleeding pressure to the low system you'd think it would be more than 15 psi. If the low pressure regulator is causing it why is the pressure normal at koeo? Has anyone run into this.

I decided to replace the fuel system again and removed the bypass kit. Only time will tell.

I'm working on a 2011 F-350 with 44,000 miles that the hpfp went out on, it locked up and sheared the gear key. I took the pump apart and the cam was shot. I saw no reason for the failure and blamed it on the early pump problems. I flushed the system per workshop manual, installed the fuel kit, cleaned the fuel tank, replaced low pressure pump, and installed a CP4 bypass kit. I did not replace the fuel cooler since it wasn't listed in the "to replace" list even though I always replaced them on the 6.4"s. 700 miles later it comes back making a squalling noise sometimes with the low pressure pump running with the engine off and worse when driving sometimes when under 10 pounds of boost. It also looses power at 20 pounds of boost and won't go over 20psi. There is a ton of metal in the lower fuel filter and at 20 psi of boost the desired fuel pressure is 14,000 and actual is 4,000. There are no codes in the system. I traced the noise to the hpfp with a chassis ear while driving and a stethoscope with the pump running. It obviously needs another pump but why did if fail already? Since I found no reason for the first pump failure I'm wondering if I'm missing something. Is it because the replacement pump is junk or because I didn't replaced the fuel cooler? Would the CP4 bypass be causing problems, I've installed one on another truck with no problems?

I finally got the customer to bring his truck in for the CAC cooler replacement and that fixed it. He made a 2,500 mile run with 15,000 pounds and no more coolant loss. Thanks for the help.

I haven't thought about that. Very possible. I guess I could try to pull the cac tubes and pull a vacuum on it.

I'm working on a 2016 F-450 6.7 with 190,000 miles that is blowing coolant out the overflow hose while towing. He is a hot shot driver and has a 48 foot goose neck and he keeps the weight within the legal limits so he is not overloading it and it just started doing it. The only time he drives it without the trailer is when he brings it to me to work on it so we don't know if it will do it empty. There are no codes in the PCM to indicate the CAC, trans, or fuel are getting hot. I drove it 20 miles and the coolant temp never got above 130 degrees and didn't blow any coolant out. I put a new cap on it and it still does it. I can command the fan on and it works, the fins in both radiators are clean. The only thing I can think of is to replace the thermostats. I've never seen any problems with the secondary system except for a couple radiator leaks. Has anybody seen this happening?

It was a three bolt starter.

Whenever I have a customer with a 7.3 needing a starter I always try to sell a Ford one but it's hard to do when they cost around $500. I priced one this week and it costs $250, I figured they must of gone cheap on quality or they are trying to compete with the aftermarket. Well I found out they are junk. After I put it on it cranked over very slowly at first and then it just spun and wouldn't kick the drive out. At one point it started smoking and I had to quickly unhook the batteries before it caught on fire. I guess no more Ford starters. Getting junk parts is getting old.

I think I found the problem. After putting in the new IDM I drove it a couple miles and it acted up again. I limped it back to my shop and wiggled the wiring harness on the engine and I could make it come and go. Then I grabbed #5 injector wire at the valve cover and if I pulled it out of the engine harness it would act up and if I pushed it back in it would run fine. I over laid a wire from before the connector on the left valve cover to the injector plug on the right valve cover. The customer has had it back for a work and it's still running fine.

I load tested the PCM grounds but not the IDM ground for some reason so I'll check that. I was wanting to start it with #5 injector unplugged but I don't have a working IDM now. I guess it was running bad when the IDM case is grounded but when it was not touching the truck it ran good but moving it around causing it to spark against the body must of shorted out the IDM's. The spark jumped at least a 1/4 inch gap. I guess I'll mount the new IDM in the truck and try to start it with #5 disconnected and hopefully it won't damage the new one. The 605 code is a hard fault but if it runs good after the injector issue is taken care of I'll ignore it.

I'm working on a 2000 F-250 that lopes at idle, misses out, and has little to no power on acceleration. It has a circuit code for injector #5 (I can't remember which code it was) and a 603 and 605. I pulled back the inner fender and plugged in my spare IDM and let it hang while I started it up and it ran great so I shut it off and tucked it up in the fender so I could pull it out of my shop while the IDM is on order. When I started it back up it was running bad again so I pulled it back down while it was running and it shocked me when I grabbed it and I saw a big spark when it touched the fender. Now it doesn't run and I have codes 1668 and 1670 along with the 603 and 605. I think I fried my IDM. I plugged his IDM in and it starts and runs bad, if I unbolt it and let it hang it runs great, now it doesn't run with his IDM so I think I shorted it out also. I ohm tested and load tested the wiring from the IDM to the PCM and the injector #5 wires from the IDM to the connector on the left valve cover connector while wiggling the harness and found no problems and there are no bare wires where it rubs on the valve cover. Is it possible the #5 injector is shorting out and somehow sending voltage to the IDM housing? I pulled the valve cover and checked the UVC wiring and ohm tested the injector and all pass. I unplugged the injector and it still won't start but I think the IDM is fried now and I'm afraid to fry another IDM. Has anyone every have and IDM shock them?

Replacing the wiring harness and crank sensor fixed it.

Yeah that video works. I didn't realize both links were the same video. Thanks for all the input but he's taking it to a place that has a scope to check it out. It's kind of weird that this is the first diesel I've ever turned away but I can't justify buying a scope at this point in my career since I'm coasting into retirement. I'll let you know what fixes it.

Bruce your You Tube video isn't working. I did unplug and unbolt the alt wires with no change. Does the crank sensor have a problem with rust jacking? I've heard of the cam sensor doing it but I've never seen it around here, I'll look at the cam sensor tomorrow. I did put a used engine in this thing a few months ago and it might of came from a rust state.

I quit Ford over a year ago and am now semi retired and work in my own shop. All I have is a VCM2 and I have no access to a scope. I guess I'll either have to buy a scope or send him to someone who does because I hate to guess when the cost is so high. Thanks for your input.

What and where is the timing tool on the IDS? Can you reach the ring with your finger through the CKP sensor hole to see if it's loose?

I'm working on a 2003 F-350 6.0 with 270,000 miles. After you drive it about 15 miles it starts cutting out and dying at times. Sync flickers from yes to no and the rpm pid is erratic when it's acting up. On demand code P2617 and continuous memory codes P0336, P0341, P2614, P2617. I ohm tested the crank and cam sensors from the PCM connector and they are good even when it's acting up. I back probed the crank and cam sensor circuits at the PCM and got the engine acting up and monitored the AC voltage. The voltage never drops out or acts crazy it just goes down with the rpm and comes back up with the rpm. I don't have a scope to check it properly. I wiggled the harness and it makes no difference. All the harnesses I've replaced have never been heat related problems they just always acted up so I'm leaning toward a PCM but at $1,200 that an expensive guess. I've tried two other PCM's but they don't work with this truck. Do you guys think I'm heading in the right direction?

I finally have it fixed. I decided to ignore the speed signal and drove it a lot more and made a lot more recordings to pinpoint the problem. I noticed that when you first drove it with a cold engine it wouldn't act up until you drove it a mile and then it would always act up so I made some recordings when it didn't act up. Then I tried to see if going in reverse made it act up and didn't on acceleration but sometimes when you backed up and stopped it would die right when you stopped so I made some recordings when it died and when it didn't die and that's how I caught the problem. I noticed that right before you stop after backing up the IPR duty cycle would go up sharply and if the ICP didn't go up also it would die and if the ICP went up it stayed running. So I looked at the recordings of when it didn't die with a cold engine and noticed the IPR was at 15% when you took off and when it does act up the IPR is at 12% when you take off. So I guess the IPR is sticking between 12% and 15% duty cycle. Replaced the IPR and all is good.