Fordracer

I have a 2000 F-350 7.3 that will hesitate or die when taking off from a stop. It accelerates fine until you get to 5 mph and then it will hesitate or die until you go over 5 mph. The only codes are EBP codes. Made some recordings and ICP starts to drop right before RPM drops and later I noticed that the VSS drops out a couple seconds before it acts up. The VSS goes to 4 mph and then it drops to 0 for a couple seconds and then it will hesitate until you go over 5 mph and the speed signal comes back and sometimes it dies before the signal comes back. I don't know if the VSS reading is causing it or not but I put in a new rear sensor with no help, I checked AC voltage at the sensor and at the ABS module and the signal doesn't drop out. I put in a test PCM with no help. I also checked the fuel pressure at right head, it's 60 psi when acting up, put in a black cam sensor, unplugged ICP and then EBP and it made no difference. I put a complete Ford reman engine in this truck 60,000 miles ago. I don't know if I'm wasting my time chasing down the VSS circuit or if it's something else. Has anybody else ran into this?

I was told in class that you can use the 7.3 adapter on the 6.0 and 6.4 and the other way around you just need to use the specs for the adapter you are using since the holes are different sizes.

After 33 years at the same dealer I have finally had enough of Fords bullshit and the dealership life. Yesterday was my last day and now I'm working at home full time. I've had a shop at home for 25 years and have a lot of clients so hopefully it works out. I was the only one working on diesels at my dealer but we have two other guys certified but they only work on a couple a year when I'm on vacation, usually they hold the jobs for me when I'm gone. It's going to be nice to spend more time with my 11 year old boy and work when I want to. No more Saturdays and working in a hot shop since I have central A/C and heat. No more warranty and prior approval bullshit. It feels weird since I spent most of my life there.

I had the hotline tell me when you do the procedure to not put it in reverse or it might cancel it.

They said they were "only" running 70 pounds of boost, half of what they plan on running.

In the last 2 weeks I've had 2 modified 6.7's with deletes and tunes that the IDS wouldn't recognize. It said something about PCM identifier not recognized or something like that , I wish I had wrote it down. It wanted you to manually input the VIN but it wouldn't recognize it either. Then it wants to install as built data. I wonder if this is something they did in the 101 update so we can't work on chipped trucks or if certain brands cause this to happen because I never had this problem before. Has anybody else ran into this?

I have a 2011 6.7 with 70,000 miles with a check engine light on and codes P0263 - Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance, and P02CD - Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector Offset Learning at Maximum Limit. I ran power balance and all cylinders are even but when I run enhanced power balance #1 drops almost all the way down. I ran relative compression test and #1 is down 12%. Did a manual compression test and #1 is 210 and #2 is 360. I am amazed that the PCM can make an engine run fine with that low of compression. I would think at 210 psi the diesel fuel wouldn't fire no mater how much the PCM told the injector to inject in the cylinder. The truck ran fine. I found a piece of the exhaust valve face came off and beat up the seat. I've never seen a valve do this before.

I have a 6.7 right now with a vref short and I unhooked the crank sensor to see if it went away and the truck started right up with it unhooked. Also it set no codes for the ckp.

I always take my IDS with me on vacation no mater what vehicle I take.

It's a steady stream coming out of the filler. I'm putting a complete reman in it. Maybe I should have parts order two of them so we have one in stock when it comes back with a blown engine then we will have another one ready to go in.

Well the crank case pressure is 24 inches of mercury. That finally convinced him the engine is shot. I was shocked it was that high but had no oil in the air intake tube or turbos.

Since there wasn't any oil in the intake tube I didn't check the crank case pressure but when I put it back together I'll check it. He changes oil every 5-6,000 miles.

I have a 2008 6.4 F-350 with 245,000 miles that smokes bad at idle and after you drive it about half a block it clears out and doesn't smoke while driving but when you stop and it idles about 30 seconds it starts to smoke again. The smoke smells like burning oil. This truck has a straight pipe and no coolers or egr valve. I pulled the lower cac hose off and it's the driest intercooler I've seen, I wiped my finger in the opening and there is no oil in it all. I unhooked the exhaust down pipe and there is no oil there, just a dry black powdery film. I checked both turbos for loose bearings and they are good and no oil in the turbo inlets. Compression is low, 325-330, but this smoking started all at once so the owner finds it hard to believe that's it. He's had to add 2 quarts oil in the last 6,000 miles and right now it's in the middle of the normal range. Has anyone heard or seen this or know of anything else I should check before I blame the engine for being worn out?

Interesting.

I did one and they are a bitch.You have to pull the down pipe out of the cobra head (the elbow that bolts to the turbo) to get access to the bolt that goes in the block to support the head. I wrote the hotline and asked if I needed to pull the cab and they said the pipe should come right out. I finally got it apart with a lot of hammering but they are no fun. It's also harder to get to the intake manifold bolts.

What brand was it Aaron. I have a customer that wants to put in an aftermarket one.

He shouldn't come unglued since he's not doing what I recommend. I'm only going to flush it with Simple Green and not do a VC-9 flush afterwards.

Since this one is a 2003 and it had over 100,000 miles on it when I did the head gaskets I recommended the HPP, oil cooler and injectors but the cost was adding up to much for him. A couple years later I put injectors in it. Believe it on not it still has the original HPP in it. People don't understand how much money they will save in the long run to do everything at once. Now he just wants me to replace the radiator hoses and flush it. He can't see how the oil cooler wouldn't keep filling the cooling system with oil after the degas bottle gets a couple inches of oil in it and quite frankly I can't either but it has to be the oil cooler causing it. He thinks it lasted 5 years this way so it should be good for another 5.

I have a 2003 Excursion with 190,000 miles on it that I did head gaskets on 5 years ago. Right after I did the head gaskets he said there was oil on top of the coolant in the degas bottle. I thought that was strange since I did the flushes with VC-9 there shouldn't of been any oil in it. I told him to suck the oil out of it and see what happens. He's never mentioned since and I have worked on it a few times since then and forgot all about it. Now I have it to replace the rear A/C lines and I noticed the upper radiator hose was swollen and soft. I looked in the degas bottle and saw the all to familiar gray slime. I drained the coolant expecting it to be all slime but it was straight coolant except the last little bit so only the degas bottle had slime in it. He said since I did the head gaskets he skimmed the oil off a few times and it was never more than a couple inches in the degas bottle and then it would come back. He hasn't skimmed it in a long time and it's still only a couple inches slime in the bottle. He didn't want the oil cooler replaced when I did the head gaskets so it still has the original oil cooler in it. I was wondering if the VC-9 might of cleaned a crack in the oil cooler but if so why doesn't it keep filling the cooling system with oil after it gets two inches of oil in the degas bottle? Has anybody heard of something like this or what it might be?

Now there's a TSB 15-0077 for this code and it has a parts list.

I had one a couple months ago that had a P259F and P0236 and the hotline had me replace the turbo and run 5W-40 in it. It came back yesterday with only the P259F and it has 7,000 miles on it since the repair. He said everything was fine since we put the turbo on it until the light came back on. FF data shows the VGT CMD was 15% and the VGT ACT was 0%. Hotline said to replace the VGT and run 5W-40.

That looks like the retainer for the valve cover connector outside of the valve cover not the one under the valve cover.

Here's what is in my bay at home. It's a 1969 Mach 1 "R" code 428 CJ w/Ram Air. It was my high school car that I drove from 1978-1980. After I bought another Mach 1 I made two cars into one and parked this one in my mom and dad's pasture for 25 years. I pulled it out of the pasture in 2005 and replaced the floors and other sheet metal. Now it's time to get it ready to send to the restorer's to get all the sheet metal and paint work done. I'm building a stroker 428 CJ that will be around 468 CI and hopefully between 500 and 600 HP. It will have a Tremec 5 speed also.

They have batteries in them that can go bad. The one's I've fixed that had a battery issue the battery had good voltage so I cleaned the battery and contacts and that fixes them sometimes.

As I was reading this I had a 2000 7.3 Excursion in my stall so I hooked up my IDS with 93 installed and it has the perdel pids and they work. Are you trying it on an older 7.3 that never offered the pid?