Fordracer

I had one do the same thing 30 seconds after key off. It is under the throttle body on the left side.

You might have a y-pipe leak or a leak at the y-pipe block that bolts to the back of the turbo. It wouldn't cause a miss but you might have two different problems. If you used Ford reman injectors there is a real posibilty that one of the new injectors are bad. When ever I put in 8 Ford reman injecotrs or a Ford reman engine it seems 2 injectors go bad within 3,000 miles.

13,000 miles ago another dealer replaced the front cover, oil cooler, t-stats, and radiator so this this thing has had some cooling system problems. "Fuel in the coolant may be related to the EGR cooler leak, but maybe not." Are you saying that an EGR cooler leaking can cause fuel in coolant or that a leaking cooler can lower the coolant level and overheat causing the head to crack and put fuel in the coolant? Where Ford cut their head in the cutaway in the coffee bock shows the fuel return passage closer to the coolant passage than your cutaway Bruce. The hotline did say that the smoke is probably caused by a cooler leak and the fuel in the coolant from a cracked head.

Has anybody had a 6.4 with fuel in the coolant? I have a 2010 6.4 with 46,000 miles that had a message on the IC that said to pull over and then the truck wouldn't start until after it was towed in. It has a code P200E (catalyst system overtemp). When I drove it white smoke was dumping out the exhaust and what looks like a mixture of fuel and coolant dripping out the tail pipe. The degas bottle is overfull and smells like fuel and coolant. The hotline says to use the 6.0 TSB to diag which head is cracked but after looking at the head cutaway in the coffee table book I don't see how the coolant and fuel is going to get in the combustion chamber to make it smoke. Of course the hotline didn't address that part of my question so I asked them again and am waiting for a response. Has anyone had a 6.4 get fuel in the coolant and did it smoke also or do I maybe have a bad EGR cooler and a cracked head?

I'd raise the front of the cab like mentioned in the thread about replacing the left y-pipe since there's a bunch of wiring to mess with. I use this method to do high pressure pumps and/or complete fuel systems if there is any add on stuff that's in the way but I haven't had to pull an engine that way yet but it shouldn't be to hard, it looks like there would be enough room to pull the engine out without removing the turbos or oil pan.

This is a perfect situation for a VDR. I have one VDR left that I haven't sold yet and with all the help you give us I would happy to send it to you if you want to use it. It does sound like a harness issue.

Last month I sold 5 new style cam sensors to a guy in Australia for $15 each. I guess he got a hell of a deal.

I've seen the oil pressure regulator stick on a couple of these. With the oil filter off you can use a 90 degree pick and see if you can move the plunger back and forth.

If you look at the aucton number I gave you can see who the buyer is and contact him through ebay. Say hi to him for me. He finally gave up the on the complaint when I refused to give him a partial refund and he couldn't provide proof that they don't all interchange. Of course he said he could win if he tried but he already sold it. The guys a real dick but I'd take his money if he's offering.

The guy that bought mine said he had a snipe bid set at $200 for mine. He will give that for the 4 screw ones.

$162.50. Auction number 300650476511.

Thanks for the replies. I sold a 7 screw one on Ebay for a core and I listed it saying that it would fit all 6.0's and the guy that bought it is raising hell that it's a 7 screw and will only work on early 6.0's. He rebuilds them and sells them on ebay. You might of seen his auctions they have a picture of a woman holding a ficm below her huge breasts, real classy. So now he opened a case against me. I called a junk yard and their books show they all interchange. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I didn't know about the early ones that would make not work on the newer ones. Thanks for the help.

Does anyone know if a 7 screw FICM will work on a newer truck that had a 4 screw one? If it won't why? Thanks.

It's like pulling teeth to get the SM to file a CUDL report when they are a regular customer. But I know what you mean.

The truck that I replaced the turbo on that I mentioned earlier in this thread came back after 13,000 miles and it's bad again. Contacted the hotline and their response is "To aid in preventing repeat turbo bearing failures, please ensure that there are no oil feed or drain restrictions. Also, ensure that the IDS is at the latest level (76.03A) and reprogram the PCM as this may also aid in preventing repeat turbo failures."

I had my first 6.7 with gas in it a couple days ago. The guy filled up his truck and went to Home Depot and went back to his shop and then he got to thinking he might of put gas in it and called us and he said it's still running outside. We told him to shut it off and tow it in. When I get one with gas in the tank I use a diesel fuel hydrometer to see how much diesel is in the gas. Pure gas will not float the bulb and the more diesel that's in the gas the more it floats. If it doesn't float we will put the gas in employees cars. Well this didn't float so it was close to pure gas and it actually ran. I drained the tank, flushed the lines, and replaced the fuel filters. The thing actually started and runs fine.

My own truck is a 2001 with 45,000 miles on it and it wont start below freezing without it being plugged in and the glow plug system is working properly. So the injectors can go bad with low miles. I haven't replaced them because I only use the truck for towing in the summer and it sits all winter unless I need to haul something. That brings up a quick question. When towing up a hill I can hear the "rattle" of the engine change and the check engine light will come on and give me a P1211 every time. The IPR goes up to 60 when it does it but the ICP pressure and ICP desired match. I put a stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring in it and the fuel pressure is 80 psi and I replaced the IPR and it still does it. I was going to test the low oil pressure when it does it but haven't got around to it yet. I assumed it might be the HPP but now I'm wondering if the injectors aren't atomizng correctly if this could be the problem.

Could be a HPP fitting or the pump itself.

I had a chassis cab turbo bearing go bad on one. It happened to be the one that had the cracked valves but the turbo went out later. I contacted the hotline because it sounded like a roller bearing with a bad spot on it and it would still make the noise after you shut it off until the turbo stopped spinning and the hotline said they did have roller bearings instead of a bushing and they have been seeing problems with them.

I thought someone on here mentioned doing it with the trans out before and it didn't sound like fun. As far as pulling the turbos with the cab on is easy peasy if you jack the front of the cab up like was described in the post about doing the righ up pipe. I'll pull the cab in a heart beat to do the pump but I just jack the front of the cab up if I'm diong turbos. But doing it with the cab on is probably not easier if you don't have a topside creaper.

I tore apart a reman turbo and they had machined an new slot in the unison ring on the opposite side of old slot.

I've been wondering what the difference was also. I know some aftermarket injectors say that the ones they sell will fit all 6.0's. I don't know how they get away with it if the calibrations are different. What do you think Larry?

4C2Z-6K864-AA

I haven't heard of why they are doing this. Is this an early build truck? The one I had was a service truck also with a big utility bed and a boom wench on it.

I think it's 8mm. You need to use a craftsman or other cheep socket that has the flats cut deeper than a good socket so it will go on far enough to grab the hex on the glow plug.