Fordracer

I can't find a boost pressure pid for the 6.7. There is no MGP pid listed. I've look at all the pids on the truck and even the pid list in the pced. Do you have to look at the MAP or EBP pid and cifer it from that?

I guess our sales department has more morals than I gave them credit for. They decided to wholesale it instead of taking a chance. A lube tech that works here bought it and has put 300 miles on it with no problems. At least now I will know if anything happens down the road with it and I will update if it starts acting up again.

Speaking of sending the hotline to India, GM already tried it. I don't know if they're still doing it but our instructor worked for GM for over 20 years and he said that so many of the calls the hotline recieved were questions that could of been answered if the tech would of read the service manual. So when you call you would get India and they had all the service manuals on hand to answer the question but if is was about a real problem you got transfered to the USA.

I bought the car in 1977 for $800 but someone had taken out the 428 and put a 302 in it. It sat in the pasture at my parents farm for 25 years until I pulled it out of the weeds pack rats and all and started working on it. I saw on Ebay that just a bare chasis "R" code Mach with a title is worth $7,000. Well I replaced the cam sensor connector and installed the new style sensor and it died this morning. I guess if the old sensor puts out a stronger signal it still could have an RFI problem or the cam could be moving. We have three salesmen chomping at the bit to get this truck because they have people wanting it and all they care about is that it doesn't die with the old style sensor so I guess we'll never know what the true problem is. I can't thank you enough Bruce for all your help. If you ever drive through Topeka on your way to Kansas City let me know, I owe you lunch. You can even stay at my place if your tired of moteling it and I'll grill you up some Kansas beef.

I've had a few leak on me in the past but since Ford said to lube them first I have had no problems.

Was that the Ford show? I need parts for my old high school car, 1969 Mach I 428 CJ Ram air, that I,m finally restoring. I appreciate the offer Bruce we'll have to see. Not to second guess you, I value your opinion much more than the hotline, but I called the hotline today just to see what they have to say and they said the old style cam sensor puts out a stronger signal and they think like you mentioned that their might be some interference somewhere causing it. They have seen several connectors causing this problem but not at an idle. I'm going to replace the connector and install the new style sensor and see what happens.

I just finished morning #2 test drive with old style cam sensor and still hasn't died. So far so good.

We don't have that tool. I put the old style sensor in today and drove a few more miles than usual and it didn't die. I need to drive it a few more times before I call it a fix but so far so good. Have you ever seen the cams walk on these? Do you think the cam retainer plate is worn?

I got to thinking about it not running with a .010" shim. I've never shimmed a sensor before but if .010" was enough to kill it is the sensor to far away without the shim? I have some NOS black sensors at home and I'll bring one in tomorrow and see if it measures deaper than the gray ones and put it in the truck and try it even if they're the same.

I put a .010" shim in it and it will fire and die, it won't stay running. Do you mean overlay all three wires?

Or cavitated front cover. Is oil overfull?

I checked it at the right head before. This morning I checked it at the left head and when it died the pressure was 65 psi. It's 55 under load. When it died this morning I noticed the check engine light came on before it died and set P0344 like it always does. Usually it comes on after I restart it. Another thing I tried the last two mornings was when trying to restart it after it dies if I push down on the accel after it starts it will keep on running but die if I let off.

Yes. I filled the fuel filter housing and put 32 ozs in the close to empty tank and then put 5 gallons of fuel in tank. I did this on wednesday night and drove it thursday with no problem but today it started acting up again.

I just tried putting other loads on the battery and watching the ICPv at pin 87 and with blower on position 1 it's .248, 2 - .233, 3 - .222, 4 - .208. The headlights make it go from .248 - .244. The wipers make no difference on the voltage. When I said the voltage was .234 in the last post the blower was in position 2. With blower off or on position 1 it's .248.

I drove it thursday with no problem but when I drove it this morning it died and seems to be getting worse. It was actually dieing in my stall for a while so I scoped the cmp pin 21 and it didn't show any problems when it died, the pattern got wider as it died. The FPW is now 2.8 at idle and MFDES is .13, Load - 18%, IPR - 12.5%, ICP - 480 lbs at .85 v. While the BOB is hooked up I checked pin 87 for the ICP and koeo was .245 v but the pid always showed .22. I hooked up my test ICP and it read .26 v so I tried a new one and it was .241 v on a warm engine. Now here is were it gets more wierd, I came back from lunch and the engine cooled down and I checked the voltage again and it was .310 v and then I heard the glow plug relay click off and it went down to .234. I tried this a couple more times and every time the glow plug relay is on the voltage at pin 87 goes up to .310 v. Do you think I have a ground problem somewhere?

I already told the parts department to get me 2 16 oz. bottles but now I told them to get the 64 oz. one. How much should I put in with the 5 gallons of fuel I'm going to put in. There might be 2-3 gallons left in the tank now so that would be around 8 gallons total. He's been a regular customer of ours. He changes his oil every 5,000 miles and no injectors that we know of. He traded the truck in yesterday on a 2008 F-150. He's been real patient with us but he sold his camper a couple years ago and only uses this truck to drive to work so he doesn't need it anymore and his wife has been on him to get rid of it for quite a while. So now it belongs to us.

This is what I have on the recordings I have of it dieing. RPM 650 581 499 396 283 108 76 FPW 3.15ms 3.04 4.13 4.92 4.97 4.97 600us MFDES .18gr .18 .38 .51 .76 1.10 0

I drove it this morning with the alternator unhooked and it died 4 times and it would start right back up again. The first time it died was at a stop light and I turned the steering wheel back and forth and then it died. The other times I was coasting or stopped. When I got back to the shop the idle would drop to almost 0 and then jump back up to idle rpm and it did this probably 3 times. Also the check engine light was on while it was doing this and then it went off after it starting running normal. I had a P0344 in it again. Something I forgot to mention earlier, I was running the KOER self test and right when the test ended it died and would keep dieng after I started it 4 - 5 times before it would stay running. I've ran the test since then and it won't act up. The truck is about out of fuel so I need to put 5 gallons in it. Should I put the Stanadyne in the tank or the filter housing? Do you think I should scope the cam sensor circuit while driving and see what it does when it dies? Thanks for all the help Bruce.

I didn't realize the batteries would last that long. I thought I would be lucky to make it 6 miles. So far I've driven it 18 miles no noticable battery drain. I hooked up the BOB and did a voltage drop on the powers and grounds. The grounds were .036 - .039 and the powers were .073 - .081. I scoped pin 21 with the alternator unhooked and hooked up and both ways they look just like the patern you showed. I drove it yesterday afternoon and it didn't die but it doesn't always die in the afternoon. I just finished driving this morning when it will always dies and it didn't die. I'll try again tomorrow morning with the alt unhooked and if it doesn't die I'll hook it back up and try it again the next morning and see what happens.

P00B7 doesn't send you to PPT K2. Were you just messing around and looking at all the PPT steps? I haven't had a code yet that sends me to K2. Whenever I have that code I end up at K9 and replacing the thermostat.

I just finished driving it 6 miles with the alternator unhooked and it didn't die. I'll recharge the batteries again in the morning and drive it again. When I unhooked the altenator I noticed the plastic insulator between the wire and the altenator was cracked if that means anything.

The alternator is putting out .055 acv. I'm topping off the batteries now before I drive it with the alt unhooked. I've only used a scope a couple times in my career but would like to learn to use it more. What ciruit should I test on the CMP? Should I check it at the PCM connector or at the sensor? When it dies it will start back up within a normal cranking time but will die right after it starts and it will do this for 3-5 times before it will stay running. Will a 7.3 set cam sensor codes like a 6.0 will when it dies? I was checking the cam sensor and circuits at first untill the hotline says they will set the codes when they die and to ignore it. I checked the fuel pressure at the front of the right head. The fuel is clean but has a brown tint to it instead of green. This is a customers truck (F-250) and not a California emission one. Thanks for your help Bruce.

Sorry Bruce. 2001.

I'm at my witts end on this one. If you drive it first thing in the morning it will die at the same stop, 4.5 miles, every time. After that it might die when ever it feels like it or it might not but the next morning it will do it all over again at 4.5 miles. I've driven it over 100 miles trying to figure this one out and now it will die at 2 miles. It seems to die more when your foot is on the brake or turning the steering wheel. I can come to a stop when it is still running and then I turn the steering wheel and it will die some times. This truck has 93,000 miles on it and it runs great and never dies under power just at idle. Codes p0344 and 340 come up at times. Also sometimes a p0107 will show up. Recordings show the idle drops slowly when it dies and the IPR nad ICP ramp up as it's dieing. There are no warning lights coming on or gauge fluctuations when it's dieing. ICP koeo is .21 volts, at idle ICP is 475 psi and IPR is 11%, VSS is not spiking. I unplug the ICP and it wont die. I've load tested the CMP and ICP circuits and PCM ground and power ciruits. Fuel pressure is 60 psi when it dies. I replaced the batteries because one was dead. I've replaced (with known good parts) the ICP, IPR, PCM, CMP, ICP connnector, PCM and IDS relays. I even drove it with the EBP unhooked. Nothing helps except unhooking the ICP connector. The hotline thinks all that's left is to replace the harness if they are available. Any help or questions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Keith.

Today is my 28th anniversary with this place. I can see where you're coming from Keith, on my 25th I thought I would here something but I wasn't surprised when nothing happened either. I aggree with Greg in that we are just money to them and vise versa we are only here for a paycheck. I love what I do here and take pride in my work and value my relationships with fellow employees and customers but if I won the big lottery tommorrow I would be loading up my tools. The shop at a dealership is a necessary evil as far as the owners are concerned. We are peons to them. Case in point - we have had four mechanics since I've been here that have retired after 35-45 years of service and they got nothing from upper managment. Our shop foreman that has been here for over 45 years and is one of the best mechanics I have worked with was told one day not to come in tommorrow we don't need you anymore and that was it. In comparison we had a salesman retire after 30 years and he got a big party at a country club. I just do my 8-5 and go home and don't think about work untill I'm on my way into work the next morning.