Fordracer

I've seen gold colored flakes before that I assumed came from the fuel pump. Maybe the pump is worn out but that wouldn't be the reason for the low ICP of course.

All the turbos I'm replacing have bad bearings and no fin damage and the most I've replaced on one truck is three. When the third one goes out they should be out of warranty. This truck is the one I had that I started the thread about 6.7 cracked valves. It is so overloaded that we have to replace the brakes every 25,000 miles so that turbo is working overtime all the time.

It shows you can get the nut but not the bolt.

I used to heat up the heads of the bolts red hot and let the heat go up the threads to the locktite. If I have to heat the nut I just hit it with a little heat like you said. Now I don't heat the bolt heads anymore, I just pull the head lights and heat the nuts. On the second row of bolts I heat the nuts through the hole in the body underneath the cab. If the others don't come out with an impact I put a socket on the nuts.

Ford used to say to use 15W40 when temps are above 90 and/or you tow alot and use 10W30 for below 90 degrees and light duty use. This was before they offered the synthetic diesel oil so it might not apply to them. I've ran 5w40 in my 6.0 Excursion for the last two years and it makes a big difference on cold start up and it helps fuel economy. On the next oil change I'm using 0W30 and see what happens. I run 15w40 in my 7.3 crew cab dually all year round but I don't drive it in the winter months, I only tow with it.

I bought one to use on the 6.4 cab bolts to keep from melting the rubber mounts. I used it on two cabs and never used it again. It will heat the bolts to red hot but it takes longer than a torch. It would work good for areas you don't want to use a torch if you can get to it with the coil, like a siezed lug nut on an aluminum wheel. I tried using it on a 6.7 cab the way the shop manual shows and the coils are to big to fit down through the hole in the floor to get to the nut. I even bought the accessory kit with all the different sizes of coils and none of them fit through the hole. I'd like Ford to show me how to do it.

You need to fix the turbo if possible and not replace it. Got burned on that once. I figured it the customer bought a factory reman turbo you should spw with another factory reman turbo but the whole claim was kicked back. They said I should of fixed the turbo and not replaced it.

Back in 1985 and 1986 the 460 had a carburetor and electric fuel pumps and the oil sendor had two wires on it and it would shut the pumps off if there was no oil pressure. Alot of good that would do when you still had fuel in the fuel bowls to run off of.

I've never heard of that, I'll have to check it out.

This last election just proves more people live off the government dime than their own dime. Just today one of the lube guys that is on welfare says he just bought a dirtbike and went out of state to a race this last weekend. He says the water bill can wait since they won't shut off utilities in the winter for lack of payment. His wife just got a job at the new Menards store in town but she is only part time so they won't make too much money and loose the welfare. I would of fired his ass a long time ago.

We have the local machine shop come over and measure cylinder bores for us and then charge Ford for outside labor.

I was under the impression that the VCM 1 was going to be obsolete after 2014 because when they anounced they were coming out with the VCM II they said support of the VCM 1 was going to cease in 2014. I have two IDS's so I sold one of them on ebay before the public found out about the new one and I bought a VCM II when they finally came out. When I was talking to a guy on the TIS hotline I asked him when they were going to get all the bugs out of the VCM II so I could sell my other VCM before it was obsolete and he said that the support that ends in 2014 is just for repairs and not software and that the VCM 1's will be good for the forseable future and he recomends keeping it until it crashes. I wish I'd known that before and I wouldn't of sold my old one.

Hey iceman, I have a 6.7 that sheared the crank dampner bolts off and spit out the oil pump in pieces. Did this happen on the one you had that broke the crankshaft? I haven't pulled the engine yet but I'm assuming that the crankshaft broke.

Thanks Brad for posting this. It worked great. You're the man. I typed in oil pan removal in the 6.4 section of the advance search for the past 60 months and nothing came up. I had to do a manual search because I remembered reading this when you posted it.

I looked it up and the picture looks like it. It's listed under miscellaneous connectors. Here's the description: 5 Cavity, EGR Valve, For Diesel Engines, Miscellaneous, Page A, From: 07/19/2004 To: 12/18/2006 2005/2007 I don't know why is says it's for 2005-2007, it should fit all years of the 6.0.

I guess the new refrigerant is now in use in the new Cadillac. http://www.ase.com/News-Events/Community...HFO-1234yf.aspx Is it time to start hording R-134a in case the prices skyrocket like R-12 did? No retrofitting this time around. But when R-134a came out they said you had to replace about everything to convert an R-12 system to R-134a but that changed quickly.

Yeah, thanks Keith. I couldn't find that on PTS anywhere.

I think I bought a few of them from you on ebay blown99.

Do you lift the crank with the rods connected? If so that would save some time.

The truck is already gone. I didn't know they usually rust on the top inside of the tank. This stuff was more like a powder not coarse like the rust I've seen but we don't have any where near the rust problems you do in your part of the country or like in Canada. A while back these guys stopped using the gas station on the reservation because of fuel problems so now they store their own fuel in above ground tanks. I can see them leaving the cap off the tanks and with all the dirt roads and the drought we've been having with all the dust blowing around it's probaly dirt. Around here it would probably take alot longer than a year for a tank to start rusting.

Here are the pictures of the primary filter housing and the inside of the fuel tank I thought that there was supossed to be a warning come on when the filters are dirty and need to be changed. I guess we can't count on that if a plugged secondary filter will make the pressure to high and the warning won't come on because it sees plenty of pressure. This truck still had the original filters with 18,000 miles and 733 hours. As you can see by the picture the tank wasn't very dirty so they must of got a bad batch of fuel and already ran it through. I guess we will see if any other issues show up later.

The transmision tech posted on the message board saying that all the techs need to get together and boycott the recall and sue Ford. He just got called into the managers office this afternoon and got his ass ate out for it. I guess someone from Ford called the manager and ate his ass out for it and they took the post down.

The hotline said it shouldn't be above 75 psi and a restricted secondary filter might cause it. I replaced the filters and the primary filter cup was covered with a brown mud like substance. If I can figure out how to post a picture I'll post one. Now my presure is 68 psi. We are going to see if the customer will let us pull the tank and see what's inside. This is an indian reservation truck and they aren't to easy on them and I don't think they have any paved roads and most of them don't even have gravel on them.

Thanks Keith and Brad. As always great pics Brad. So to find diag procedures do we have to scour the PPTs to find them? Under section 4 Diag procedures all they have is checking for clean fuel. The pressure is 88 psi at idle and 82 under a load. Seems a little high. I guess I'll call the hotline and see what they think I should do next. After performing PPT M it says nothing is wrong.

I have a 6.7 with codes P228F (Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Exceeded Learning Limits - Too Low) and P127A (Aborted KOER - Fuel Pressure Failure). Even though the PPT doesn't ask to check LP fuel pressure the hotline said to check it as that is usually the cause of these codes. This truck has passed all the PPT M tests and the codes come back after the customer drives it a few days. Has anyone found a way to check the low pressure fuel pressure? There is no procedure in the PCED. This truck has 18,000 miles on it and the original fuel filters. I would like to show it has low pressure so the customer has to pay diag along with replacing the filters.