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Motorcraft Full Synthetic Diesel Oil

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Quote:

January 2, 2008

To: All Ford and Lincoln Mercury Dealers
Subject: Motorcraft Full Synthetic Diesel Oil - Now Available For Order

Motorcraft is pleased to announce the launch of Motorcraft SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil. Motorcraft Full Synthetic Diesel 5W-40 is now available. Owners who seek the very best for their vehicle will prefer Motorcraft CJ-4 Rated SAE 5W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Oil because it:

  • Provides rapid lubrication and increased flow for cold weather start ups
  • Resists viscosity and thermal breakdown even at higher temperatures
  • Protects exhaust after-treatment devices
  • Provides exceptional soot control which protects against abrasive wear and oil thickening
  • Is recommended for diesel engines which require ultra low sulfur diesel fuel


Motorcraft Full Synthetic Diesel 5W-40 Pricing
















Description Part Number Dealer Net
4) 5 quart bottles XO-5W40-5QSD $119.23
55 Gallon Drum XO-5W40-DSD $1,282.15


Competition for this product is very limited; most full synthetic diesel 5W-40 oils are not CJ4 Rated.  In addition, our price point is very competitive.  Please take full advantage of these opportunities to dominate the market and grow your profit opportunities.

Ford Customer Service Division appreciates your business. We are dedicated to providing you and your customers the best service and quality products designed, engineered, and recommended by Ford Motor Company.

Questions
Contact your FCSD Parts and Service Zone Manager or Shane Nelson, snelson@ford.com (313)845-0465.

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/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gifI don't understand why that would be out of the realm of reality??? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

 

You see these guys buying tuners and exhaust kits and so on....

Not even thinking about the price, why wouldn't this be a good upsell. They want the most out of their trucks, why not put the best in their trucks???

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And on top of what Larry said, many owners INSIST on synthetic oil. You know the guys, they stretch their oil changes as far as Blackstone tells them they can and agonize over every minute trace chemical or metal that is reported. Have you looked at the oil change interval for normal driving now? 10,000 miles. I wouldnt mind that at all with full synthetic oil for most people now.

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Haha, I know! I think that the synthetic oil will find it's customer very quickly, as it always had a tendency to do. There's always those select few guys who won't even talk to you unless you use synthetics..

 

...some of these oil change intervals are getting insane now, though. And the thing that worries me is that, over time, engines *WILL* consume more oil. What good is a 10,000 mile oil change interval if you end up 3 quarts low by the time it comes around?

 

I see these commercials for some Quaker State super-synthetic engine oil that makes you smarter & better looking too, (lol) but they seriously say you can go 15,000 miles between oil changes simply by using this oil.

 

I can only imagine the backlash from customers with 10 year old cars who actually decide to wait 15,000 miles for oil changes, and then wonder why the oil light is coming on during agressive stops, hehehe.

 

Dave

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/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gifI don't understand why that would be out of the realm of reality??? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

 

You see these guys buying tuners and exhaust kits and so on....

Not even thinking about the price, why wouldn't this be a good upsell. They want the most out of their trucks, why not put the best in their trucks???

Around here they buy tuners and exhaust kits not only to show off and have lots of power, but also to try to improve their fuel economy. Then they switch to synthetic because they can't afford the maintenace and oil change costs after they make that huge truck payment. Once they switch to synthetic, they figure they can ignore the now 16,000km interval ("under ideal contions" which is California "NOT FREAKIN CANADA") and stretch it to 30,000km's because some "SCAMSOIL ASSHOLE salesman" told them they could. Then they are in the shop with blown up engine oil coolers, worn out engines, etc, etc, crying for warranty.

 

So yeah Larry, they want the most out of their trucks because they want the least amount spent on them as the end result.

 

I have always said that synthetic oil is no doubt about it a better lubricant than conventional oil. "BUT, within the same interval". 5000km's or now 16,000km's is still 5000 or 16,000kms of carbon blowing past your piston rings and contaminating oil no matter how good the oil is. I pull these filters and oil out of these units that these guys are running synthetics in and stretching these intervals and the filters are starting to cave in and the oil looks like tar. And it doesn't matter up here what you tell these guys, they just don't "FREAKIN" listen because the "SCAMSOIL ASSHOLE" knows more.

 

Your clientele may be different down there Larry and possibly more educated, but these are the kind of "Oil rig mentality IDIOTS" that we deal with up here in Western Canada.

 

They talk something like this: uugghh uuggghh I need a ummm a diesel because I get ummm free rig fuel to cut down my cost of driving to work which gives me more money to spend on crack and meth ugghhh ugggghhh! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

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Dwayne don't hold back...Tell us how you really feel.

 

No really, I'm a firm believer in real oil and not the scamsoil everybody thinks is a wonder lube. I also believe if this stuff was so good why wouldn't the oe's be putting it in from the factory. Now as a upsell... If the oe's will stand behind it fine, but don't tell me that these engines won't see more wear and tear from a extended P/M interval. If the oe's do stand behind it then I would hope that they stand by it in regards to the warranty if it's a lube related failure.

 

A diesel creates a lot of byproducts that the oil needs to encapsulate and has a need for more P/M's to be done. If not like you said it is a major failure waiting to happen.

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Tuners+exhaust+wheels/tires=redneck racing package. They spent all thier money on that and can't afford to maintain it.

 

IMHO a good conventional oil like Shell Rotella T or Mobil Delvac is the way to go in a diesel anyhow. I hear too many horror stories of diese engines that use synthetics, especially with Swepco and Amsoil.

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with some test that we have done, i think amsoil has performed the best out of all.. after all mobil 1 did try to copy amsoil a couple years ago.. motorcraft is a good oil but it the molicular structure doesnt last very long that requires you to change it so often..same with most other oils.. basically the reason why i think amsoil has done a good job is because they developed an oil the will not break down as fast as others.. so therefore the constant change in heat for 100- 250 degrees, amsoil's molicular stucture will stay the same longer than most oils... now in order to go the extended drain intervals amsoil does recommend that you use their synthetic filters and engine flush when you do the change.. and they also have the pre-chargers that will send oil to the valves and all moving parts at startup faster than the factory oil pump on the engine to suck oil from the pan to the top of the engine.. eleminating that cold start friction. now if you eleminate most of the engine ware at startup, and while the engine is running normally,, then there shouldn't be any reason that the oil cant last to lubricate the engine for more than 15,000 miles.. and if you ad the by-pass filter system also i have seen engines run for 30,000 miles and not change their oil.. if the molicular structure doesnt burn off then it will keep the engine running cooler and it wont burn off.. but when that structure burns of and is not filturated properly then it will look like sludge.. and also cause everything else to fail..

 

 

now as for adding exaust and tuners,,

 

adding a slightly larger exhaust that is free flowing, madural bent, as well as quiet and well engineered. the key to the exhaust system is to reduce the leftover exhaust gas that is in the cylinder when the exhaust port valve is opened.. in order to increase the life of the engine is to get rid of restrictions and heat.. by doing this you will pull more exhaust gas out of the combustion chamber and allow only more air and not left over gas in the engine is on the next stroke round.. it has been proven that adding more air in, releaving exhaust backpressure and heat, you can then tune the pulse width, timing and fuel pressure to increase power and fuel economy as well as engine life.. now if you see trucks that are blowing black smoke they are making power but i bet there egt's are sky rocketing because their burning the fuel in the intake manifold instead of the combustion chamber and all your doing is spending money on a tuner that is increasing fuel pressure and thats it.. no smoke is the key.. and it has been done.. but i would rather spend a little more money on my truck and by a tuner that is gunna tune pulse width, timing and pressure as well as safeguard the rest of the engine and transmission and keep everything running cool including egt's.. that is the trick..and it has been done..

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First of all I can't see how sucking dirty unfiltered oil from the pan and putting it on the valvetrain is a good idea at all. Any good conventional oil shouldn't break down fast enough to cause premature engine wear if you change it at the recommended intervals. Everyone knows diesels have way more carbon and particulte matter in the engine that needs to be suspended and filtered. Why would you ever install a bypass filter on a diesel engine? ALL of the Cat SOS results that I have seen with conventional vs synthetic oil show that with a synthetic there are about the same ammounts of metals in the oil as the conventional oil therefore indicating the same wear is taking place. Rotella T in a Cat, Delvac in a Detroit, Motorcraft in a Ford and a Cummins ain't worth changing the oil in LOL /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

 

As far as race engines go....used Mobil 1 20w50...less than 5 engine failures in 5 years....switched to Joe Gibbs Performance 20w50 for that extra 1/2 horsepower...5 engine failures in 1 year....think Mobil might be onto something /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif And no engine builder that I know recommends AMSOIL

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Aaron.... don't get me started on bypass filters.... The oil pump on ANY motor is carefully sized to the oiling requirements of that motor.... And now somebody is going to add an internal oil "leak" to the system .... effectively taking some of that volume/pressure and send it back to the pan in the name of "better filtration".

 

As for engine management mods... I think I speak for several DTS members.... For a seldom driven "toy", knock yourself out. When it comes to the air that I breathe and someones daily driver....

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Spamsoil has made me confused.... As far as I can tell, part of their product line uses PAO base stocks (which, AFAIK, is the good stuff) and part uses "hydro-cracked" (so-called "semisynthetic" base stocks).

 

I tried Mobil 1 in a couple of my personal vehicles with no really astounding changes...

 

I'm left with impression that the only real benefit of synthetic oil is it's thermal stabilty in temperature extremes...

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If synthetic is the trick to prolonging egine life, then why is it that I have seen 7.3L's that have been properly maintained on conventional oil changes with a million kilometers on them and still run like they were new?

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MOA is not designed for use in diesels.

 

I lived in the South where the heat can kill an engine. This product takes the properties of the existing oil and boosts them to extreme levels so contaminats can stay in suspension and be filterd out, ect.

 

You don't have to take my word for it though and you don't have to use it either, I mean if you drain and fill according to the manufacture then the engine should last forever without any additional cost right?

 

If you have a BG rep in your area ask for a bearing demo with this product. All questions will be cleared up immediately.

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IMHO. . . I dont think synthetic oil is worth the money. I worked on CAT truck engines for 5 years and now fix CAT Ag equipment. I believe very heavily in oil sampling and so does my dealership. I maintain our Ford service trucks. When I started with the company we ran CAT DEO(diesel engine oil made by mobil)in all of our trucks. For some reason they switched to Mobil 1 5W40 synthetic two years ago. I have looked back at the oil sample results and all wear metals and soot are the same synthetic to conventional in the same pm interval. According to our oil lab we could run longer on both oils. My philosophy is oils and filters are cheap compared to engines and downtime.

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IMHO. . . I dont think synthetic oil is worth the money. I worked on CAT truck engines for 5 years and now fix CAT Ag equipment. I believe very heavily in oil sampling and so does my dealership. I maintain our Ford service trucks. When I started with the company we ran CAT DEO(diesel engine oil made by mobil)in all of our trucks. For some reason they switched to Mobil 1 5W40 synthetic two years ago. I have looked back at the oil sample results and all wear metals and soot are the same synthetic to conventional in the same pm interval. According to our oil lab we could run longer on both oils. My philosophy is oils and filters are cheap compared to engines and downtime.

I agree. The key to prolinging engine life is maintenance, not a mechanic in a can.

 

Another thing that I advise to customers who fall for the Scamsoil plot is to have their oil samples done by a non biased opinionated company like Cat or Cummins and "Not Scamsoil". I wouldn't trust their darn oil sampling for anything.

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Having Spamsoil assess their own oil and filters sounds a lot like having the fox mind the henhouse...

 

Something I think everyone overlooks... the big saving grace for synthetics is thermal stability. The add pack is going to break down, just like with dino oil... with PAO base stocks, shear shouldn't be a big concern... but everyone and his dog is allowed to call a "semi-synthetic" (cracked dino oil) a synthetic... with no real explanation of the differences.

 

Without any manufacturer support for extended service intervals when using synthetics, I see no other benefit than in the way it performs in extreme cold or heat.

 

FWIW, we usually have at least one full week of -40 in the winter... this isn't "extreme" cold...

 

Minus 50.... well, we've had that too... that would be what we call "nippley".

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motorcraft oil is not a synthetic oil anyway,,its a synthetic blend. amsoil is the only oil out there that is a true group 4 oil.. i trust it and i use it in everthing,,, i did notice from switching my diff, trans,and engine that the temps ran cooler and it picked up 5% hp on the dyno simply because of the lack of friction...

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