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In Vehicle Headgasket Replacement

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I have decided to do headgaskets in-vehicle on this F350 that I'm working on. There are so many aftermarket lights, wiring, crap, ect... I don't want to spend several hours dealing with all this add on crap and end up not getting paid for it.

I decided to just bite the bullet. Who knows, I may end up doing it faster in the vecicle.

I did this once a long time ago, and I think it was actually my first 6.0L headgasket job.

Does anyone have any tips? Anything besides just pull the body off?

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Doing one that way right now, and yep remove the heater box and that'll make life a lot easier... well as much as it can be. Thats about it, I tear the front coolers out of the way but thats a personal preference.

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Yeah my old back don't like bending over pulling those bolts 90x3.

Oh I get it. Your standing inside the engine compartment. Do you always do headgaskets in the vehicle?

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I agree, the little extra time to remove these is well worth the reward, besides, we have no hoists in the truck shop and they won't let me thread eyelets into the roof panels for the overhead crane !

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I agree, the little extra time to remove these is well worth the reward, besides, we have no hoists in the truck shop and they won't let me thread eyelets into the roof panels for the overhead crane !

Thats too bad. I have found that even with the body removed, an engine hoist to lift the heads makes the job a lot easier.

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Originally Posted By: Jeff Clyde
I agree, the little extra time to remove these is well worth the reward, besides, we have no hoists in the truck shop and they won't let me thread eyelets into the roof panels for the overhead crane !

Thats too bad. I have found that even with the body removed, an engine hoist to lift the heads makes the job a lot easier.

 

I agree that an engine hoist helps A LOT. However, with the body removed, I find that lifting with your legs and proper balance makes lifting the heads more bearable (even for a skinny little guy like me). This is why I refuse to pull heads on these engines, if cab removal is impossible. My back is worth more to me than all the money in the world.
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Why mess with a hoist when all you need is a helping hand from a coworker?

That's IF you can actually find a co-worker not too busy doing his gravy ball joints/brake pads to stop what he's doing to give you a hand. In my shop, just about all the guys refuse to even go within 20 ft. of any diesel truck (unless it's for RETAIL brakes only).
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Originally Posted By: Keith Browning
Why mess with a hoist when all you need is a helping hand from a coworker?
That's IF you can actually find a co-worker not too busy doing his gravy ball joints/brake pads to stop what he's doing to give you a hand. In my shop, just about all the guys refuse to even go within 20 ft. of any diesel truck (unless it's for RETAIL brakes only).

 

Ahhhh so you work with those guys too I see Posted Image

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Originally Posted By: Keith Browning
Why mess with a hoist when all you need is a helping hand from a coworker?
That's IF you can actually find a co-worker not too busy doing his gravy ball joints/brake pads to stop what he's doing to give you a hand. In my shop, just about all the guys refuse to even go within 20 ft. of any diesel truck (unless it's for RETAIL brakes only).

Truck shop hourly pay kicks ass! Help whenever you need it, AND people are more then willing to actually teach you stuff.

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Why mess with a hoist when all you need is a helping hand from a coworker?

I still use a coworker to install the heads while using the engine hoist. I just think there is less of a struggle than trying to work around the tire, cooling fan stator, fuel lines, ect...

 

 

The heads are back on the engine waiting for me to torque the headbolts. The job has been going pretty good so far. I'll see how I feel after the 90x3 shoulder workout. Posted Image

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Originally Posted By: Keith Browning
Why mess with a hoist when all you need is a helping hand from a coworker?

I still use a coworker to install the heads while using the engine hoist. I just think there is less of a struggle than trying to work around the tire, cooling fan stator, fuel lines, ect...

 

 

The heads are back on the engine waiting for me to torque the headbolts. The job has been going pretty good so far. I'll see how I feel after the 90x3 shoulder workout. Posted Image

 

ive been hearing that using a torque multiplier saves your back cab on

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I've done a lot of head gaskets inside the truck. Remove the front wheels and put a 2x4 on the ground under the front ball joints. Lower the hoist and let the truck sit on the ground on the ball joints. This will compress the suspension and lower it even further. Then I remove the radiator, then do the rest of the work while standing inside the engine compartment. Keep your toolbox and a bench close by so you don't have to keep climbing out of the engine compartment.

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Originally Posted By: BustedKnucklez
I've said it before, and I'll say it again,....CAB ON All THE WAY!!!!! Posted Image
AGREED 100%

Mike, are you sure you read that right? Your the last person that I would think would want to do headgaskets in-vehicle.

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Mike, are you sure you read that right? Your the last person that I would think would want to do headgaskets in-vehicle.

OOPS!!! Flat rate reading on a Friday, when I'm getting MONUMENTALLY hooped!!! Posted Image
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The heads are torqued down and I just need to put the intake back on. Posted Image

Torquing the headbolts was really not that bad. I removed that heat shield on the firewall just so it dosen't get damaged and it gave me a little more room with one headbolt. I stood on my stool, used my 1/2 breaker bar with a pipe.

I'm way more beat up from replacing a mode door actuator on a Ford Five-Hundred earlier this week than I am from this headgasket job. Posted Image I also use a topside creeper. I think that helps a lot.

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