DieselJay Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 i have searched for this topic and not found wht im looking for .....a while back i printed an article on step by step to remove the cab on a 6.0..does anyone know where the link is for...thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 PM Bruno on here, he's got a pretty good writeup. I've got it somewhere, but I can't find the dang thing for the life of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 It's kind of old and the one I had I got from flatratetech.com but that is gone and so is the copy I had. If someone has it please post it... so we have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 BrunoWilimek has the procedure spelled out pretty well, I can't find the E-mail he sent me. Spent an hour pouring through my inbox last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselJay Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 thanks guys yea i checked flat ratetech.com and its not there ill pm brumo though but in the meantime if anyone has the link post it up!!!..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 I have it but the pics are .art files which I can't find a way to open? Apparently I downloaded it when I was using AOL and there is no way to open it with IE? If anyone thinks they can salvage it I can email the whole mess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 I believe we are looking for the original write-up that was posted at flatratetech.com like four years ago. I remember printing it out and using it for my first cab off. I have been scouring all of my hard drives for it but i can't seem to find it. At one time I was cleaning it up and making it neater to post but decided not to in the end for liability reasons... I should have just done it looking back now. The pictures were not necessary but are helpful. I don't recall who the original author was either - would be nice to credit him if we do salvage a copy. I do have a write-up posted by Warren Johnson that I could polish and put it into a .PDF format for sharing and posting... perhaps with additional sub instructions for different cab types and Excursions. ktmlew email me your copy and let's see what we have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 ktmlew if you email it to me (joshbuys@yahoo.com) i'm pretty sure I can get it opened up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Here is the text: This procedure was made possible by Chris Goodman FordMasterTech © FlatRateTech.com First thing I done BEFORE placing truck in lift bay was to pull the front scuff plate and kick panels out of both sides and pull the carpet back enough to expose the rubber grommet cap things to get to the 2 body bolts in the front of the cab out. (There are 8 body bolts all together on a Crew Cab. Others may have fewer) For some STUPID reason, Ford decided to have 2 different size body bolts, 21mm right side 24mm left side, go figure.. Then I pulled the bolt out of the lower steering shaft and only left it in there hand tight. (you will want to pull it (steering shaft) completely out and telescope it down through the firewall after you have the vehicle in lift bay) Now its time to release the tension on the parking brake. More info on how to in the service manual Next, if you have a Crew Cab, is to pull the rear seat, tool tray, and jack. Pull rear of carpet forward until you expose the 4 body bolts. After you have removed all the body bolts in the cab, proceed to the lift. Once you are in lift bay, pull the bolt out of the steering shaft and feed it through firewall. Be draining your coolant & recovering refrigerant, while you remove the shift cable from the trans While you are underneath, it is a good idea to go ahead and remove the ground bolt behind RF wheel @ frame or body (either will do). Next, remove both ABS sensor wires at the inner fender splash shield. Now pull the power steering cooler out, don't just take the lines off !! Trust me, I bent the PI$$ out of the 1st one of these I did. Next, pull your lower radiator hose and trans lines from radiator. Pull the radiator out. Remove the two nuts (18mm) holding body to frame. Remove both batteries and CAC tubes. Remove air filter and LH battery tray. You will need to remove the nut on the positive battery cable to separate an individual wire on both batteries. Remove the positive cables and set aside. On RH engine compartment, remove the ground close to the battery. Next remove the 1 wire connector (quick connect) here and then remove the vacuum hose to 4WD (if equipped). Move on to pulling the nut off the accumulator and remove the AC hose. Then pull the top AC hose from the condenser. (Compressor to condenser) Remove the MAP hose off the intake and then pull the heater hose ( RH side near alternator) and set both aside. Move to LH side of engine compartment, and disconnect the gray connector on frame rail close to the CAC. Take the 3 lines off at the ABS HCU and set aside. Remove the 2 harnesses to the right on the PCM. I removed all 3 but only 2 on the right is necessary. There are two other connectors on that harness that have to be disconnected as well. Next you will see a row of 5 connectors. Disconnect the one closest to the front. There is a relay/fuse block that needs to be removed also. Take a screwdriver and depress the tab and it comes right off. There are 3 other connectors in the rear of the engine compartment LH side that need to be disconnected also. Just follow the wiring harnesses from frame and see where they lead. Remove the Hydro boost lines and then the reservoir line that runs to pump. Remove degas bottle and then disconnect LH side heater hose. Position all wiring that goes up with cab clear of the engine. You may want to get somebody (or 2) to spot while someone actuates the lift. If anything goes to snagging, it is better that someone can yell HO!!!! Instead of trying to do it all yourself and screw up some stuff. Carry on with the procedure in the manual for the head gasket job or engine removal. A couple of tips I learned on these 6.0L Stupid Duty's is that it is easier to pull the harness from driver side & work your way to the passenger side, until you get to the point of disconnecting the AC compressor connector or the CKP sensor. The CKP sensor connector is hell to get to even with the body off, so don't fool with it, it isn't't necessary. Just set the bulk of the harness aside. Another tip. Before you pull 6.0L heads off, remove the 2 drain plugs to drain the coolant out, remove starter to get to the right one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 I have several different versions now... I will post something old and I am working on a new, cleaned up version from several sources... I would love to add an Econoline procedure too. I have pictures but I never wrote it up. Anybody have anything there? By the way I am producing a nice PDF document for safe keeping, sharing, displaying and printing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 I am doing a cab off on an 05 s-d right now, i took notes on the whole deal while i removed it. I'll post when i get time to edit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Super old topic, I know... But does anybody have a procedure for removing Econoline bodies? We have one here that we want to attempt it on, but am still undecided... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I do believe Aaron has, let me check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I thought he had, he said he will cobble up a reply tonight involving his ordeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 1/2" impact gun on top, and assistant on the bottom heating up the nuts with a flame wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I will look for and post whatever photos I have in my archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I did it twice and it was easier than a Super Duty but these were cargo vans. If its a passenger van it will be harder with the seat and carpet. The most difficult part is removing the body bolts in the rear of the van from the cargo area. There's two things you can EASILY overlook and that is the ground strap at the right rear of the engine that attaches to the inside of the engine compartment - the straps do not stretch and the fuel filler neck. Otherwise I do not remember any really difficult thing about it. You just need to look and figure out what needs to be disconnected. It should be pretty obvious. BUT - when you do start to raise the body take it slow and stop frequently to look around for things that are pulling and need attention. I think I actually did begin a write up in the process and have pictures... somewhere. It was a long time ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I think I am the odd man out, I hate removing the cabs for work that can be done with the cab on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 I hate putting my back (and my whole body for that matter) through hours of torture bending it in forms that is unhealthy for work that can much more easily be done with the body out of the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I think I am the odd man out, I hate removing the cabs for work that can be done with the cab on. No, I have never had a cab off of a 6.0L truck. I do a lot of partial cab lifts very few cab lifts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I've got mixed feelings about cab lifts. I really like it once the thing is up in the air but getting there can be a chore sometimes. This 04 I just did headgaskets on was probably the most rusted one I've pulled. Nothing wanted to come loose, tranny lines wouldn't come out of the rad, p/s lines wouldn't come off the box, couldn't chance opening the brake lines at the HCU because there's no way bleeders were coming out afterwards if needed (that whole mess stayed with the chassis). Cab bolts needed more heat than I felt comfortable with and all the fenderwell connectors gave me grief going back together. The guy I work with used to do a lot of 6.0s back in the day. He insists there's only one cab he didn't pull for a headgasket job and the only reason why was he just wanted to try it without. I've worked on quite a few 6.0s and 6.4s that I couldn't pull it even if I wanted to in the worst way. It's best to know the job from both sides and make the repair based on what can and can't be done. I can not say I've ever done an E-series, Excursion or F-150 yet though. Only F-series super duties so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I can not say I've ever done an E-series, Excursion or F-150 yet though. Only F-series super duties so far. I've done all three that you've listed. E-Series, as Keith already mentioned is actually easier than an F-Series save for the cab to frame fasteners that require use of the flame wrench to persuade loose. Excursion to me, is no different than a Super Duty, save for some extra cab fasteners and a fuel filler neck to contend with, no biggie. An F-150 is about the easiest cab lift ever of all of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I can not say I've ever done an E-series, Excursion or F-150 yet though. Only F-series super duties so far. I've done all three that you've listed. E-Series, as Keith already mentioned is actually easier than an F-Series save for the cab to frame fasteners that require use of the flame wrench to persuade loose. Excursion to me, is no different than a Super Duty, save for some extra cab fasteners and a fuel filler neck to contend with, no biggie. An F-150 is about the easiest cab lift ever of all of them. Never done an E-series. But I agree 100% on the F-150's being the easiest by far. I've had a couple up, one for a head removal to extract a spark plug that got pushed down into the cylinder with the Lisle tool. And one for a customer pay motor swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I am not a cab remover. Not normally, anyway... But, my apprentice likes to do shit like this...so, I'll let him. This is a cargo van that needs a branch tube. I don't mind pulling the engine out, but I'm not doing the job... just overseeing (and getting paid for) it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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