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removing cab

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You need to remove the HPOP, rear engine cover, a couple of push rods.  The WSM calls for engine removal, as it is extremely difficult to see what  you're doing when it comes to unbolting the branch tube.  The branch tube comes out the back of the engine once the rear engine cover is removed.  If you want to find the procedure, just go to the HPOP procedure.  At the end of the procedure, it will give you link to the branch tube procedure (should you find the tube is damaged while doing the pump).

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So how is he doing it? Removing the body, and then the transmission to access the rear cover, or is he pulling the engine with the body removed?

 

For what it's worth I've only ever replaced TWO branch tubes on these engines way back when they were still well within warranty. It was then, that I'm sure most of us had caught on that they could be finessed to align properly to the HPOP if they were bent slightly.

 

All I know is, I'm so glad most of these vans are disappearing very quickly.....

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I have done a branch tube on an E-series. Left the body on and pulled the tranny. If you use the procedure in the book and remove only the pushrods required it's not bad. Didn't even need a second person to help.

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Guess what I just diaged today.... broken branch tube on an 06 f-550. Air test sounded just like a bad stc fitting, so I dove in and tore off the pump cover. My stomach dropped when I found it had the new 1 piece fitting in it. I closed the ipr with my ipr jumper harness, and put air back to it. Branch tube is broken completely off on the drivers side of the connector block. Now the interesting part. It has a VMAC, it is a service body, and I can't lift it, as it is too heavy for my hoist. I am thinking I should pull the engine vs try to pull the trans on the floor. What do you guys think? Oh yeah, I leave for holidays on Friday at 3, it needs to be done before I leave....

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We've pulled the body, and are going to slide the transmission back far enough to get the rear cover off.  The branch tube on this one is leaking.  I had it for a no start hot, and found the STC blown out.  I replaced the STC and put it all back together to find the issue was still there.  After pulling the valve covers, I found the leak to be in the STC area still.  I removed the HPOP, plugged the hole in the branch tube and poured dye down the stand pipe and was able to see the leak.  FWIW, the pipe was not bent.  There was still about 1/4" between the pipe and the rear cover.

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Noted today after changing my broken branch tube. If the 1 piece stc eliminator is not correctly aligned before it is bolted to the branch tube block it WILL break the branch tube. When I loosened the two bolts that hold the stc block to the branch tube block, they separated by 1/16" on one side and stayed tight on the other. That is why the branch tube is broken. F*ck me. Kudos to anyone who accomplishes that job in the truck with the body on. I pulled the engine, and would never do it any other way.

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I've done a couple of branch tubes in chassis on F550's. The STC fitting blew apart and came out the back cover. Did them both in chassis on the floor. I did buy a good bore scope to see the bolts in there. The first one I had a helper like the book says. It went so bad that I figured out how to do it by myself on the second one. The second one was customer pay too. :thumbup:

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