kellyf Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Has anyone else found after replacing egr,oil coolers that debis ends up in ipr?.I am very careful about cleaning and letting nothing go down in the sump.Had another tech tell me he heard something about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregKneupper Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I have only trashed one ipr after a cooler replacement and I know for a fact that it was my fault. Has never happened since. Some said there was junk in the oil coolers but I have never personally seen this and feel that is not the cause. Do you replace the screen when you do the coolers? Also do you drain the oil from the sump or just leave it full? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Yeah, at this point I am not to sure about this either when it comes to the IPR but broken screens and debris are things you do want to be careful with. Any debris that ends up into the oil passage to the HPOP likely ends up in the pump and what's spit out can enter the injectors or if small enough pass through the IPR screen. If the screen is separated or broken then there ya go. My observation has been that any stuck IPR valves that had a broken screen, had a piece of the screen stuck in the valve. Recall those pics I took of the new oil coolers with the white substance left behind from manufacturing? I doubt that had any effect whatsoever. Completely cleaning dirt and sand from around the oil cooler BEFORE unbolting and removing it is important. Many techs, myself included use a fluid evacuator to suck out the oil and and any debris from the oil cooler resevoir. A new screen is always prudent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyf Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 I completely clean everything.Always replace t5he screen.When I removed the ipr the screen was kind of bent in.Have done many,but this is the first problem i've had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I don't think I've EVER seen the screen without at least one or two windows punched out of it, every one gets replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 The picture above, is the damage done to the IPR valve after one I replaced. And the one below, shows the debris that collected on the NEW screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 The lower screen picture looks like sand to me. I feel that cleaning around the oil cooler before removing the bolts is very important. Use an air blow gun, brakleen, small screwdriver or a small brush if you have one. More brakleen and compressed air afterward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I can't see anyway to say this without sounding like an absolute dick... so I'll forge ahead anyway. If you are installing a new or "rebuilt" crank... you wash it and inspect it... If you are installing a new or "rebuilt " cam.. you wash it and inspect it... If you are installing new main or rod bearings... you wash them and inspect them.... (OMG, I hope I'm right!!!) Why would an oil cooler or and oil cooler service kit be any different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I usually power wash any 6.0 I work on before I work on it, since most of the trucks I have been working on of late have been farm/county highway maintenance trucks, and absolutely filthy under the hood. So I drive it over to cleanup, shampoo the piss out of it, drink a coffee while it soaks, power wash it, then bring it back to the shop and let it sit inside overnight and dry out. After working on it, it gets power washed again. I think the cleanup guy is going to start charging me to use his power washer soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I've never had it happen to me, but last week I did have an Econoline where the customer replaced the oil and EGR coolers. The IPR was stuck, the screen was completley plugged and had a cut in it. From what I could see it looked like small gravel in the IPR valve. EVERY oil cooler I replace gets a new screen, oil drained. I also clean the area beteeen the oil cooler and the block really good before removing it. I also clean the new coolers with brake clean and blow them out, only because I heard Ford was having peoblems with debris in new coolers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 The lower screen picture looks like sand to me. I feel that cleaning around the oil cooler before removing the bolts is very important. Use an air blow gun, brakleen, small screwdriver or a small brush if you have one. More brakleen and compressed air afterward. Big time, I am so nervous about random kibble geting into that reservoir, lol. Brake Cleaner and a blowgun works wonders for cleaning that are BEFORE removing the oil cooler (and HPOP cover for that matter). Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Originally Posted By: Keith Browning The lower screen picture looks like sand to me. I feel that cleaning around the oil cooler before removing the bolts is very important. Use an air blow gun, brakleen, small screwdriver or a small brush if you have one. More brakleen and compressed air afterward. Big time, I am so nervous about random kibble geting into that reservoir, lol. Brake Cleaner and a blowgun works wonders for cleaning that are BEFORE removing the oil cooler (and HPOP cover for that matter). Dave Dave, Weren't you the first one here to have one 'go bad'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I saved a set of intake port covers off a long block job to cap the intake ports, then let loose with the blow gun and a scraper to clear crap away. Be very aware of the tight section right behind the front cover area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I spray down around the intake and the oil cooler cover with a spray bottle of mineral spirits to soften/loosen the debris then blow it out with a long skinny blowgun before ANY disassembly occurs,I also try to look to see if any stray nut's, bolts,accorns,zip ties,plastic caps,moon rocks,or missing 10mm sockets are laying next to the intake just waiting to fall into an intake port as soon as I lift the intake. Then durring dissasembly I continue to clean as I go. I also plug/cap the turbo drain in the HPOP cover as soon as the turbos comes off I get to work on way to many school bus's that have been apart a hundred times so god only knows whats laying up there.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 How bout moon rocks, you got a collection goin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I hate those friggin moon rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Originally Posted By: DamageINC Originally Posted By: Keith Browning The lower screen picture looks like sand to me. I feel that cleaning around the oil cooler before removing the bolts is very important. Use an air blow gun, brakleen, small screwdriver or a small brush if you have one. More brakleen and compressed air afterward. Big time, I am so nervous about random kibble geting into that reservoir, lol. Brake Cleaner and a blowgun works wonders for cleaning that are BEFORE removing the oil cooler (and HPOP cover for that matter). Dave Dave, Weren't you the first one here to have one 'go bad'? Maybe?? Haha, I rememeber one time I(think it was after I) had done head gaskets on a truck an replaced the EGR and Oil coolers, and the IPR as well because the screen had blown through, and shortly thereafter the HPOP took a shit. Like, the same day if I remember correctly. The new IPR had a shreeded screen afterward and I think it was determined (but I don't recall how) that the new oil cooler had some casting flash floating around in in it and it made a special delivery to the doorstep of Mr. HPOP. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 it made a special delivery to the doorstep of Mr. HPOP. Dave LMAO!! Well put!! If only Mr. HPOP could have been on the terlit when the Fedex man was there, and they just left the tag on the door! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 you could solve 75% of the problems just by putting a strong screen under the oil cooler. I sneezed and it ripped. Its like tissue paper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Ever try cleaning one off with compressed air? So clean you can see though it like it was glass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 There's an aftermarket one available made with a stainless steel screen, I can't recall where I saw it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 The new OE ones have a metal screen now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Ever try cleaning one off with compressed air? So clean you can see though it like it was glass! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 The new OE ones have a metal screen now. Is there a new part# or has the existing part been updated with the same part number? I just got one out of my parts department 3C3Z-6C683-AB and we really cant tell by looking at it but the screen material is shiny... it COULD be steel... but it does not stick to a magnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I don't have the same PN, I've got -AA in my notes. I'm betting it was redesigned. I'll check on IH, too. Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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