2 Gas Questions

Mbl35 · March 10, 2010

1) 97 e superduty bus. Had 2 skips in the motor-cyl2 & 9. My supervisor told me to change all plugs and coils. Cyl2 coil, a small piece of the boot broke on the plug. since it's a van i'm having trouble getting the piece off the plug. I usually use

my extra long storks, twist a little and the piece comes out. I have small storks and they will grip the boot but it just won't come out-spent 45 min. trying. It don't seem like this motors ever been caressed before. anyway i just put a coil over the plug-went in fine. Drove it 6 miles and ran like new. But i don't like that plug being in there. I was thinking of removing the coil and filling the well up with pb blaster or wd40 and running it for an hour or so and then try to get it out- its in a sucky spot to. Any suggestions on this?

2) 02 e250 4.2l. Check engine lt., scanned it the other nite and p1336 misfire monitor hardware cmp misaligned, cmp/ckp exessive electrical noise. I cleared it and it comes back on koer test and as a pending code. Also when the motor is reved

2000 rpm and you release the gas you can hear a little squeel- i think it's coming from the syncro, the belt is new. The next shift a cht was ordered for it from a tec on the day shift who serviced it, my nite coworker put it in. I scanned it-no cmdtc,

perform koer test-engine cold and a cht code for engine temp not reached or somthing like that(posting from home) comes upand thats it. I let the engine warm up almost to the middle and perform koer test and no cht code and p1336 comes up an id also pending. I believe the cht code was informational and not a fault because the engine did not reach operating temp. Only time i ever had to change a cht was when on intermittant crank no starts on crown vics and towncars whent the pcm gets a false reading and gos into overheat protection mode i believe.If the engine oveheats and pcm will set an cht overheat code which is informational. I checked the connector and it looks fine and wireing. Anyway i think this thing may need a syncro, i hav'nt had the time to pull the cmp and have look, though it gos into power ballance test evry time with no problem so i don't think the cmp is broke . Also cmp fault pid says no. It has like 250,+ miles on the clock.

Thanks.

Buddy_M · March 11, 2010

I only have knowledge on the first one, whenever I had a boot break off and stick on the plug, I found it easiest to go in with a screwdriver or small pry bar, and break the upper part of the porcelain and boot off and then pull that part out, then blow out the plug bore again, and then remove the lower part of the plug and retrieve it with a magnet if you dont have a magnetic plug socket.

Buddy

mchan68 · March 11, 2010

Regarding #2, I've replaced more than my share of CMP sensors and synchros on 3.8L Windstars for driveability issues. And yes they will squeel exactly like a belt when they fail. The 4.2L V6 is just same as the 3.8L in a Windstar so I think a CMP sensor and syncho will fix it.

Regarding #1, I agree with Buddy_M's method for retrieving the boot.

Mbl35 · March 11, 2010

Yea sounds good but i think i'll pass on that -regarding #1, just in case. It's a van with a v10 and juat incase that don't go as planned, i don't feel like pulling the head. If that cyl starts misfireing then i'll deal with it that way. I'll just leave it for now.

For 2, i had my boss order a syncro and a cam sensor.

Thanks for the input guys.

GregKneupper · March 11, 2010

Make sure that when you install that synchro that is installed correctly. My experience has shown that a p1336 is usually the result of someone messing with it and installing it incorrectly. Have also seen people pull the front cover and not remove the sychro and then just put the cover back on and never timing the synchro. Just a thought because you dont want to do that job twice.

Jim Warman · March 12, 2010

When a plug boot glues itself to aplug and refuses to come out, you can cobble up a hole saw from an appropriately sized piece of metal tubing... weld an old 3/8ths drive socket to one end and grind some saw teeth into the other.... chew the chunk of plug boot out of the way...

The engine temperature code (IF it's the one I think it is... and this is NOT a good way to dispense or reason advice) is almost always because the engine took TOO LONG to come to operating temp... Replacing the thermostat would be the likely fix but then I don't know the likely concern to any degree of accuracy.

I have seen the the CMP and the synchronizer are actually two separate parts... it is the synchronizer that usually squeals and it usually takes the sensor out with it... If you are getting both a noise and a code, replace the synchronizer and sensor as a pair and reassess.

For some reason, most all of the manuals that cover engines with this kind of a cam sensor arrangement are either full of misinformation or contain barely any information at all... Even to the correct timing tool to use (there are several of them depending on the year and motor... and I seem to have to go hunting for the right one nearly every time).

HTH.

Mbl35 · March 12, 2010

I actually have the tool, have some stuff from a store that closed and some syncro tools among them-yeah!

Brad Clayton · March 14, 2010

Before you run into another stuck boot dealyyo, get yourself one of these bad boys:

Stock # YA6845

Name Remover, Spark Plug Boot

Price** $39.95

Brand Snap-on

Country Of Origin USA

Sorry no image. This thing is a major time savor and is tapered on the end to get under the ripped boot as it slides over the spark plug.

Brad Clayton · March 14, 2010

Whenever I want to see if someone has been fooling with a synchro, I pull up the power balance screen on IDS and then undo a spark plug wire. It should correspond on the power balance screen, if it dont the synchro is most likely not timed correctly.