Buddy_M

Ok, my mind just had me thinking 2018 for some reason. I believe Rostra had a kit listed for the newer generation Super duty trucks with gas engines, but they are wanting the OEM look of course. I miss the days of the trucks when you could just add the buttons or change the steering wheel and enable the option if needed and poof you had cruise control if it wasn't ordered with such. It still boggles my mind some days working on the newer chassis cabs we had and having a complaint of inop turn signals and clearing a code in the BCM and they work again. Been out of the dealership game way too long and yet I still try to stay a little familiar with what the OEM's are doing with the body controls and multiplexing as the models progress.

Just recently went back to work for a company I left nearly 2 years ago, and since they know I have a past history with Ford they were asking me about a truck they just purchased. They just got a 2018 F550 V-10 truck with a bucket lift body on it, VIN 1FD0X5HY8KEC42085. After taking delivery they realized it was ordered without cruise control. Wondering if anyone is familiar if a request can be put in somehow thru our dealer to get the as-built updated or modified to get cruise control enabled after changing out the steering wheel, or would something aftermarket be more easily done in our case. To add to the story I did find a dealer close to us had a steering wheel in stock strangely, and after discussing what we want to do they admitted they had tried installed the steering wheel and it did not work on another unit they had in stock. They then reprogrammed with a different VIN and I got the impression it worked but they got the obvious codes for VIN mismatch. Most of our dealers around here have fairly green techs it seems, or unfamiliar with trying to do something that isn't listed in the workshop manual it seems, so I figured I'd reach out here and see if anyone on here may have done something similar.

Ford has the SVE bulletin Q-133 regarding the upfitter switches for the F-Series trucks that I'd refer to and see if it could apply to the Excursion. The ITBC I believe also used a different master cylinder, but then just needs programmed/enabled in the PCM to work properly so long as the connectors are present in the Excursion also.

I've been out of the dealer since 2007 and been between the independent and fleet scenes, but still lurk here for what I may be able to help with, and read as I may come across something that someone here has seen and may help me in the future. Even though I no longer have access to PTS, as required for what I'm working on I will buy a subscription from motorcraftservice.com for 20 dollars for 3 day access. Another great source that is free is bbbind.com/free-tsb/ for searching TSB's and complete wiring diagrams.

Just a thought as I'm not familiar with the escapes since I left the dealer scene some time ago now. Did the column replacement require relearning of PATS? If it did maybe try to perform an additional key programming and hit the remote fob button as your last key to possibly learn it?

I've had a run of SCR failures with the Ram diesel applications also. Most of them have been covered under a recall. I wonder how similar the SCR design is between the light duty Ram pickups to the medium duty use or if they may even be the same since that part is typically supplied by Cummins I belie e.

I think the one you're looking for, for future reference to anyone who finds this in the future, would be part number 571-1241381-1 or 1241381-1 thru Mouser. They have the PDF technical drawing to confirm if size dimensions are correct to the pin you were looking for.

I had one probably 3-4 years ago that had a check valve issue and similar ICPV pattern. Also had one that separated like your picture, don't think it had any other complaint other than a misfire from a bad injector if I remember right.

+1 on the super scraper. I have one and like the results it gives on manifolds, heads,water pumps etc without the worry of gouging the surface.

What's your email address and I'll send you the full installation manual I got for it. He uses the Astrostart brand and isn't familiar with options/setup for Pro-start so he couldn't help much there, but does agree it likely needs programmed for tach settings.

Did the new module come with the installation manual? Virtual tach is a voltage sensing mode most likely and may need to be learned to the vehicle. I was a dealer for a different brand(Crimestopper Security) and many options had to be programmed at time of install, it's not always a simple plug and play operation. I see Pro-start is a Directed brand, if you don't have the install manual I may be able to get you one from a friend who is a dealer for some of their other brands. What model number is the starter?

I believe it's as easy as just replacing the steering wheel with the switches. All the other switches for clutch and brake are there and PCM is already set to accept it I do believe. Never had to do it myself, but I do remember reading something of it several years ago now.

IDM can be used on any of them, PCM may work, but would likely throw a few codes if it is out of a auto trans vehicle and put in a manual trans, or switched between a California or 49 state truck.

It may be frowned upon by some by admitting this, but my personal VCM(not the vcm2) is a chinese clone unit i've had for probably 6-8 years now with no issues. It has full functionality as the one while I was at the dealer. However when the updater would run and connect to the internet it would disable the programming options but everything else was still functional, but I could get programming back by deleting all the IDS files and reinstalling. Worked great for the 7.3/6.0/6.4s I did as well as the gassers, just wouldnt work on the new stuff that requires the VCM 2 and I just didnt have any experience by then with them so I passed on those vehicles anyway.

Ford Program R7C. Google that and it will come up with some more info. This is one of them I found this evening with the dealer info of how to claim it for payment. http://www.car-seat.org/showthread.php?t=59953

I dont see why you couldnt try squirting some ATF in the compressor intake. Another thing would be some seafoam spray, or any other type of engine intake cleaner that you likely already may have around that could decarbon the valves.

Certain of no air leaks? Even some smaller leaks have played hell with building reservoir pressure with me before on some of our trucks. Not sure what the ISB run for a compressor vs the ISX engines I see, but I have had to replace 2 compressors myself due to the same complaint.

3M body schutz, or if you really want to make future repair/maintenance hell for yourself or another person, have the bottom done with a spray on bedliner, either by a professional shop, or good quality DIY(and Duplicolor is not good, nothing lacquer based)

MLE code is a PCM for a manual transmission. I'm thinking maybe someone either reflashed it to the wrong code, or has a programmer or chip with wrong coding which could explain the 0603 also. I'd say try and do a blank path programming back to a MLE1 and see if it helps with the codes/datastream. Cant hurt to try for as little time it would take to rule out that possibility.

Dorman 327857.1 adapter combined with a standard 3/16 inverted brake line plug?

Grounding thru a universal oil pressure switch is my usual preference on installing aftermarket hourmeters on our equipment if practical.

Whats is my "bay", a break from everything and anything light duty for a while. Currently one rig in the yard for disc brakes and a lot of other stuff, Definitely a lot of stopping power of this setup. Two 42" discs, each disc has 2 calipers for a total of 8 pads for braking. One caliper is mounted on the left, the right is hanging from the crane getting ready to install it.

I'm with Bruce. I tried to pull the snap ring the first time I tried to replace that seal and gave up. I just used a pick to pull it, and used the backside of the pick to roll the new one in so I didnt damage the new one. There was no damage to the spacer or snap ring so no need to replace it IMO.

I've seen the red ELC ran in several light duty diesels without issue personally. May have an arguement with the 6.7 as its not really used in the MD sector as the past engines, but the International version of the 6.0/6.4 engines they used their Fleetrite ELC, similar to the Shell and Cat red coolants. I run the red in my 7.3's since it already has the anti corrosion and cavitation packages, as well as silicate free. My trucks with the green it originally called for seemed they would go through a water pump every 2-3yrs, sitting at nearly 7 years now since I last did a pump.

I've never done any 6.4 exhaust studs, just 5.4/6.8 here, but the 6.4 are probably a non-magnetic grade of stainless steel(I'd think either 304 or 316, and theres a lot of different grades out there depending on final application), non-ferrous to me would imply it being something like aluminum/brass/copper. If its stainless it can still be welded with the standard 70S6 wire from a MIG for extraction.