Buddy_M

I'm enjoying being back on the heavy duty side of things... Different world, and bigger things to be broken.. Kenworth with C15 Acert that I want to adjust steering radius tighter, and a set of engine brakes I suspect isn't working, only feels half engine max engaging as no difference between 2 & 3. Finished up with a hydraulic motor and product pump for hauling crude oil before getting home, and next project is a new Western Star chassis with a National Crane.. It was rolled last summer, fixed, and the driveshaft let loose off the transmission and took out a lot of fuel, hydraulic, and electrical lines for the truck chasses and crane upper.. Apparently I'm the only one insane enough to tackle it, pictures will be a must during that job, lot of collateral damage.

I had a 6.4 no start once with similar outcome, except the CAC tubes didn't blow. Customer had just replaced fuel filters and thought air in the system, said it was low on power. Caught the EBP pid going way high on cranking on datalogger, broke the pipe loose on turbo outlet and fired right up. DOC inlet was completely plugged, had extremely high engine hours for the milage, and found out it was getting idled for excessively long periods of time at their shop.

If the centering ball isn't removable, then there shouldn't be a needle bearing to worry about being worn out. However the 3 pieces that usually make up the ball seat probably are wearing causing the residue. If you have a driveshaft shop they can probably find the parts you will need to make a reliable fix.

I have a needle tip adapter that I put on my grease gun to service my truck, extends about 2 inches to seat in the check ball to allow it to be greased. No grease coupler I know of will fit in a double cardan. Check with a good aftermarket parts guy, several brands make the u-joints available with the zerk in one of the bearing caps so it can be serviced much easier without the need of the needle tip. Whats the truck the drive line is from Matt? 05+? The book I have doesn't list the centering kits for them, so may be more of a challenge to get the seals and such. Those types with the attached centering ball must be cut down on a lathe to a certain diameter to allow a new ball to be installed

Don't use it with a new harness, you will break the tab off(Done it myself). The new harness has a raised part under the tab so these aren't needed. However if I come across a truck with a loose harness, I quote for a new harness. Hard to say if the pin sockets are worn as well and still may present a problem to the customer after a short time.

FTXL40E is what I have for injectors. Mid length, but not the length of the old socket for the 302 intakes.

I own 3 99MY trucks, so the 617 kit is the one for 99-04 trucks. Unsure what later years would be without going into the parts books. If the ball is a Lil rusty I'll hit them with a scotch brite hand pad, and also make sure you pack the small pocket where the ball goes into with grease(would be nice if it could be greased in service, unfortunately that what seems to always fail most commonly). Also worth noting, some driveshafts have the ball machined as part of the tube yoke, and to replace it requires lathe cutting it down to install the replacement ball kit. Even if the ball is intact, the kit is nice as you get a new spring, socket, and seal.

If you are going to give the option of a single injector, may be worth while to add in to pull the other 3 to reseal. While they're out, you can hold your fingers over 2 of 3 fuel inlet ports, fill the port with brake clean, then apply air with a rubber tip blowgun to the tip and watch for bubbling coming back thru the fuel supply port possibly. I've had 2 trucks now that have had 2 injectors on the same bank push air into the fuel rail. Thinking the second one started scoring the plunger/barrel due to no lubrication from fuel, so your truck may be in a similar situation from the gasoline.

I've done several. I go straight to the torch to cut the u-joint cross out and then flat air hammer bit to drive cups inward. Precision 331 ujoints and 617 is the ball kit part number if memory serves me right. Clean up the yoke bores with a flap wheel and coat with antiseize makes future work easier.

Been a crummy past few days. Wife's 99 has been pushing fuel into the cooling system for a Lil while lately. Finally got parts to replace all cups, seals, and glow plugs. Didn't realize it until I was barring it over after having the new sleeves and injectors back in place that the glow plug tip broke and fell into #7 hole. Spent 5 hours with a borescope and magnet trying to fish, finally gave up and pulled the head tonite. Now waiting for a gasket to show up to finish it and be done until I want to tackle the delayed reverse engagement issue on it(which could be a while now after this mess)

Bruce, what's the dates for the switch to stainless or do you have a part number or any other info? I've heard of them supposedly having SS cups multiple times, however I have yet to see stainless cups in a 7.3/T444e application. I've seen them in a DT engine but not the smaller engine, in addition every sleeve I've ever purchased thru my Ford parts dept or IH dealer have always been brass.

For stubborn drums and rotors(and I mean stubborn, have had to do this with light duty all the way up to heavy duty brakes) spray the center pilot and in the lug stud holes with PB Blaster or your choice of penetrant, and with my 16lb sledge alternate hits between lug studs or on the outer rim of the drum or rotor hat. That 16lb has saved my ass, used to have an 18 that was a welded-built up 14lb but it grew legs some time back...

With the 2015 coming out, the dealers here all shut down at 2006 now with their notices. I'll be either calling or visiting their parts department tomorrow hopefully to find out info straight from them. Running the VIN on motorcraft shows its available, but I'm thinking its possibly an ambition issue as well, I don't see how it could be a liability issue as he has all the paperwork I told him he would need to present.

There's only a few guys here that I possibly expect to know this answer. My nephew has a 2005 F150. Over Christmas his coat was stolen with his truck key, so he hasn't been able to move it in over a week now(doesn't even have a spare key). The dealers always stated even when I worked in the dealer that it was only available for 10 model years. NASTF and the motorcraft page says its available back to 97/98. So through FMC is it restricted from dealers at a point or do most just choose not to want to bother with them after a certain age.

Correct thermostat for the application(not an 95ish early style in the late engine?) Thermostat didn't get installed upside down somehow or just a sticking tstat?

Started Tuesday on a T800 Kenworth, driver shelled the front drive axle power divider. Swapped out carriers(8000 price tag on a carrier we found out, almost 10k by the time we're done for just parts alone. Also replacing bushings in the rear suspension, no rubber left in one of the axle mounts. Done with day 2 on this truck which should be a 1 day job, doesn't help being sick and still working and pushing myself hard still.

The check/dampener is in the upper half that you replaced already then, the lower is just the hollow supply tube.

Is the ICPV irratic in data stream by any chance? I had one where 2 injectors on the right back showed down, replace injectors to no change. After almost pulling my hair out I found the check valve/pulsation dampener in the standpipe was broken and causing hell with only 2 of the 4 right injectors. Replaced standpipe and all was good. I could blow thru the old one, however you shouldn't be able to with a new/good one.

The body builder guide doesn't give the specifics, but it appears with midship tank the DEF tank is outboard of the right frame rail and fuel tank.

All I can add, is I have done ball joints where the old ones use one socket size, and new ones are different depending what brand you're installing and what may ha e been in there before. Find yourself a decent socket set that goes up to 1-1/2" and 36mm and you should be covered for whatever you come across. I actually go up to 2" in socket sizes by having a harbor freight 3/4" Dr set that I have yet to break after 10 years. Also have a few odd sockets from 2-1/8 to near 5" for odd stuff I've done over the years.

36445EAK in my Transtar catalog lists it for the DTR sensor, but all the pictures it appears to be for the solenoid pack by the shape(Just looked odd not matching up, just be worth it to double check it before ordering). WPT-590/3U2Z-14S411-VCA shows up quite a bit in the partsvoice locator, so your parts guy should be able to get one thru that channel if the warehouse doesn't have it, but even Rockauto showed they have the motorcraft part available to ship from typing the numbers into google.

I was wrong on the welder model, mine is the 212, bigger unit than the 211. I'll touch on the end of the stud with a flat carbide bit on the die grinder to get rid of rust on the end, then build up the stud if necessary til it extends out about 1/4". I also run the welder a lil hotter than what I probably should for it just to get that heavy heat soak to make sure I have very good weld penetration, usually setting 4 and between 42-52IPM seems to work best. After that I grab a 3/8 nut with a needlenose vise grip, hold it over the stud with one hand then fill the center with my weld pool, let it sit just until the red glow goes away then go in with my 1/4" air ratchet and they spin out. The last truck I did that had so many broken ones, it was a Minnesota truck so plenty of rust. The nut flats on the few I could get on I had to use an 11 or 12mm because the rust had made them smaller than the original 13mm size. One or two of them I remember giving up and taking the torch and cut the nut off the stud so I could get the manifold out of the way. Now.. if that doesnt work, I've been successful with two other methods(I dont recommend anyone try it without practicing a lot on scrap parts, it's quite sketchy, but can work very good if done right) Either with an oxyacetylene, you can get the torch just right to heat the stuck bolt, wait an extra few seconds then hit the oxygen and you can get nearly all of the bolt blown out of the hole(just run a tap and it's good to go). That method Matt is an option I would try on a turbo housing if it came to it, the cast housing shouldn't draw heat as fast as the broken bolt will, so it shouldn't damage the housing very much if it does at all if done right. I've even tried(just once, and successfully even) blew out a broken bolt from the right rear exhaust bolt on a 5.3 engine in an early 2000's chevy pickup by using my plasma cutter since it was so tight against the firewall. I've learned and taught myself a few tips/tricks with using torches/welders, helped me quite a bit that I used to work with a welder. He taught me several years ago when I was in a heavy truck shop and had me take the same destructive testing that would have given me certification for structural/pipeline welding so it makes me quite confident in what I am doing at least. When I made the switch from heavy to light duty, I was told the torch very rarely got pulled out at the dealer I was at. It was my best friend there for rusted/stuck fasteners and even u-joints, and I seemed to always get the strange look of what the hell I was doing when I got it, but I always seemed to get the job done faster than anyone else there could.

I have the Miller Diversion 165, and their unit comes with controls on the torch assembly, or i can plug in a foot pedal if I ever buy one. My MIG is a Millermatic 211, and personally I'd rather use that one since only one hand is really needed, which is set up with C-25 and .035 wire, to build up and extract broken studs. Last job I did took me around 30-45 minutes start to finish to pull 14 broken studs from a V10. I'll build up the stud if needed, and weld a 3/8" nut onto the stud or weld build up and fill the center, wait about 30-45 seconds for cool down and heat travel, and spin it out with a wrench. I think it's just adding an extra step to weld a washer then weld the nut to the washer when it can be done in one step.

Another one to add, are the radiator quick connects the same (base 7D273)? Just another option to check and try.

Honestly I've never paid attention other than knowing they are 1/2" line, is the other end pipe or o-ring boss thread? Maybe this is the right style to work: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-67153-800-617.aspx?parttype=Transmission%20Oil%20Cooler%20Connector&origin=keyword