Buddy_M

Sounds like rolling thru the scale at Culbertson MT, about an hour straight west of me. They love just nitpicking at anything they can to drive up fines. They tried to get my father to pay cash to escape a fine that went to the company. He declined to pay, so they fined the company about 10 times more than what they told him.

I used to get a Verizon discount when I worked for Nabors Drilling a few years ago, also got discount pricing on Ford vehicles again after I left the dealership. Nabors used strictly Verizon and Ford(as well as other supplier/brands) so their employees were able to get discounts since Nabors was such a large volume customer.

Bruce, have anything you recommend to see or do at SEMA? I'll be flying down for the show next week as well. Third time in Vegas, but will be my first year ever at SEMA, so it's gonna be more of just taking in everything the first time for me. I've been lookin thru the floorplan, and it looks like it's gonna be quite the experience for me with all the manufacturers there.

Just finished up a timing belt in a 96 Toyota. 6.4 in the shop right now pushing air back into the return side thru the cooler and air locking the fuel filter housing. One 6.0 not building ICP, and another taking about 4-5sec of cranking to fire sitting outside waiting for me to drag em in. Subaru head gaskets half done because the other guy quit after tearing it all down, so leaves me to figure reassembly. Then a Kenworth W900 needing a blower motor, new batteries, some hoses on the engine are leaking, a few air leaks, adjust clutch and a few more things on that trucks list to do before next monday.

I still hold the door for many people when out, elderly, women, families etc, and I'd much rather stand and allow elderly/pregnant women/etc have my seat. However, I do tell my wife quite often that chivalry is dead (and get one nasty look as I proceed to hold the door open for her LOL)

Check our Delegard Tool in Minneapolis. I know they were able to get a lot of service parts when I was a parts man at NAPA in college. I don't know if they will sell direct or if they'll refer you to a local distributor/store that carries their products.

PCV tube/elbow was one of my thoughts but it wasn't rotted as I've seen on other vehicles, I also plugged off the brake booster, evap, and vacuum ports to no change. However, now I feel quite stupid(Ahh yes human error came back to bite me in the ass of course) Upon reinstalling the throttle body to intake the first time, part of the o-ring(about 2" worth) gasket popped out and cut off when torqued down, falling into the intake resulting in quite the vacuum leak. Replaced the seal again and fuel trims and sensors are behaving the way they should be now.

I'll be the first to admit here, I do not like gas drive-ability, even when I was in the dealer I had a hard time grasping the concepts of how fuel trims and such work(and still do, thank god I don't see too many gas engines that require that type of knowledge) I had a company I had worked for a while back ask if I can take a look at an 03 F350 V10 as they were stumped, it will run rough at idle, and occasionally die when coming to a stop. Hooked up the IDS, no CMDTC's. Noticed short trims pegged at +33%, and O2 sensors bottomed around .1V, however when raising idle to above 1500rpm, O2 sensors would instantly come alive and trims would start coming back down. I've checked fuel pressure so far and is in spec(38 KOEO, 32 KOER, regulator isn't leaking, and holds pressure with pump off), has a new fuel filter before it was brought in to me as well. Their mechanic sprayed starting fluid around the intake and wanted to replace the intake gaskets(actually had me do that at their place thinking the cause of running lean), and PCM is already at most recent program. The truck has 116,000 miles, and unknown idle hours on it. Hoping someone can help me out with some insight, as I'm stumped with some of these gas engines, and I'm wondering if it's possible for two lazy O2 sensors, or if something else could be the problem.

I've switched to Dewalt after my Snap-on drill's switch quit, then the last batteries finally bit the dust for my cordless impact. I had a few Dewalt tools at home and it was a lot cheaper for me to buy all new Dewalt stuff for work than thru Snap on. All of my tools are the 18v cordless, so all my batteries and chargers interchange between home and shop if need be. I have 2 chargers and 2 extra batteries, and that keeps one battery in each tool and I'm ready to swap out anytime. My set consists of a 1/2" drill, 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 impacts, angle 3/8 drill, and 2 cordless trouble lights. A big plus for me right now, had my angle drill fall off a truck and shattered the battery and was able to go that night and buy a replacement in town instead of waiting a week for the truck to roll by. If you go the Dewalt route, price out the bare tool, as well as the kits. The kit will include two XRP batteries usually and a charger, for the extra 100-150 bucks I would buy the kits at first like how I did to get my extra batteries and chargers, as the batteries alone are aroud 100 each, so it's considerably cheaper to buy the kits for the extra batteries.

Fuel pump/sending unit float in one bay in a 88 E350 motorhome chassis, and a 65 Mustang in the other bay, parked and hasn't ran in 20 years, the owner has some decent income and wants it fixed up and driveable again, so it's a long list of ignition, fuel system, and brake work. And of course just outside my bay doors is a 99 S10 waiting for a driveline, and a 97 Chevy K1500 for exhaust donuts, oxygen sensor, and 2 wheels.

I believe it is a #4 O-ring boss hydraulic o-ring for that small fitting. I have a box full of seals for hydraulic fittings and that's where I've went for resealing that lil plug. Every pump that's leaking out of that plug I have been able to spin em out with my fingers, or no effort with a wrench, but putting a little heat to it won't hurt anything as Bruce said. That little check ball, make damn sure it's in place before you install the ferry plug.. Nothing will make your day worse than putting the pump back in to a no start cuz it fell out of position and having to pull the pump again.

Wow, sad to hear, I remember seeing the link on Facebook last week about Bosma. We had a local man go missing end of April in our town, later to hear that there were signs of a violent confrontation at his house, and the other day a body was found 7 miles east of here, but due to decomposition they are awaiting autopsy to determine if it was him. I've heard they have a man in custody in relation to it, and someone posted that heard possibly up to 5 or 6 in custody in relation to this. It's very sad that the little town I grew up in and at 7 years old was riding around everywhere with no problems, and now I absolutely refuse to let my kids do the same due to the influx of people. It's a blessing living in one of the best economic areas right now, but the people that the oilfield brings with it also brings along the trouble makers and ruins it for everyone.

I only have the IDS/VCM setup and have had a couple older trucks where the OBD-II port under the dash is not active(thankfully the few problems they have had I've been able to diagnose/repair them without the scan tool.) I'm wondering if anyone knows if I can hook up thru the OBD-II connector and if the IDS can be used to program the PCM to the OBDII port and force it to successfully program by a newer tear tag/calibration/part number thru manual entry?

Bad(flat) spot on the ring gear teeth in a spot so the drive/ring gear so the ring gear/drive are hitting and not engaging completely? Barring it over allows the drive to fall inbetween two ring gear teeth instead of hitting head on maybe? If it were me, I'd inspect every tooth on the ring gear and possibly hang a new starter suspecting a drive or solenoid problem.

16 new plugs and it starts/runs just fine now. FF_INF PID read 0% when I checked it after I got it back in. Driving just fine and everything appears normal now, so what caused it I have no idea at this point.

Yes this is a Flex fuel truck, I also do have an IDS, and will check that PID tomorrow to see what it says when I roll the truck back in to finish it, got a KW W900 for A/C work(and it's only 31 degrees today), 78 Dodge pickup for a new intake/carb combo from Edelbrock, and an Audi for a belt tensioner to take care of first.. yuck..

Brad, I did see that when searching the forum, and seen the insulation starting to wear, but nothing exposing the copper yet, so I did take care of moving that so it shouldn't cause future problems(hopefully). As an update, the spark tester showed good spark, the plugs appeared to look decent so I didn't think anything of it at first, I ended up sticking one in the coil and grounded the outside, no spark(or weak when it did fire) So 16 plugs are ordered with only 55K miles on the truck, and just under 2000 hours(averaged 27mph its life so far). Plugs didn't really look all that bad, I've seen a lot worse anyway, but seeing them not fire consistently is the only thing I have found, and I'm quite confident that should at least get it running to check for any other issues. This is just one more reason I don't like to deal with gas engines too often, I'm liking my diesel work quite a bit lately.

OK, first time seeing the new stuff, had some KOEO codes for FPDM and Injector circuits, found the fuel pump relay was broken from someone trying to pry it out previously and likely corroded inside. Replaced that and took care of those codes. Now there are no codes either KOEO or CMDTC. Ran thru PPT A , Power balance is green across the board with 160rpm cranking speed, and manual compression is 180psi. Fuel pressure is good, have good spark while cranking, injectors are moving fuel as pressure drops with pump unplugged. Sync switches to yes while attempting to start, and OASIS is coming up with nothing with symptom codes. I've been out of the dealer for about 5 years now and hoping maybe someone can provide some guidance on this before I end up giving up. VIN is 1FT7X2B67CEA80251 if anyone can provide me any kind of insight hopefully.

The standards that e-trailer lists are nice, but they miss a few points. The round 6 pins have two different setups, as the trailer brake and 12v pins can be swapped(as Phillips and other manufacturers make an adapter from 7 pin flat connectors to use either way if brakes do not work properly). Bargman is one plug brand that lists the wire colors completely different on their 7 pin flat connectors, if you ever look at the rear of an aftermarket plug/socket when wiring, they will list green for tail, red for left turn, brown right turn, etc. Only common with Bargman is blue, white, and black wires which can make it confusing when dealing with different trailers or people who may have messed with the trailer wiring.

I've done a couple of these. I have used an AMS clutch 05-224 with a solid flywheel and replacement clutch hydraulic system in one truck. It's the same(as far as I can tell) as the 05 and earlier clutches, so the Luk 05-101 or 05-117 may work with that flywheel, or if you want the complete kit with flywheel the 05-179 and 05-183. Luk also stamps their name in the crank side of the flywheel, so may want to check that also to help ID what brand set was installed. The Luk numbers out of their 2012 catalog I listed are standard organic and the cerametallic respectively.

For tomorrow, an 06 6.0L that needs a new injector, but he has 100hp tips in it, so need to swap them over and a late 90's Freightliner FLD120 with both aluminum saddle tanks cracked, drained them tonite, and will steam them out first thing tomorrow and weld them back up with the TIG. 2001 Cummins that the owner filled it up with gas and wondered why it died and won't restart. And last but not least, a 2010 Dodge 3500 towed in last Friday with a snapped front axle now waiting for approval for the front axle, radiator, and a list of a lot more damaged from hitting a culvert, and an '11 Dodge that snapped a tie rod on another truck of the same company.

In my two 7.3 trucks over on the other side of the state from you I have been running the Rotella 15W-40 until around late November when it gets it's fall oil change to the Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic. I've never noted any more oil consumption than it had before, and it still has the same oil leak at the dipstick adapter it's had for the past 4 years(enough to make it wet, but not leave a drop.) I just started carrying 55gal drums 15W40 in a synthetic blend in my shop, and will be trying that in my trucks next. Have used it in a few customers vehicles so far from the 7.3 thru 6.4's and a few Cummins 5.9s as well and especially notice better running when first started cold on the HEUI engines.

Unplugged EBP and vref came right back up. I don't think I was expecting the engine sensors to have an effect on these other sensors since they used a different connector and pins on PCM. That and I trusted the IDS too much as the vref read 5v instead of taking a few extra seconds and measuring vref underhood at the engine sensors also. Thought that the PCM had a couple different vref outputs for various circuits.. apparently not, so something for me to remember for future if this happens again.

OK hoping someone can provide some help on this one as I'm about at my end on it. 2005 6.0 brought in on the hook with no throttle pedal response, codes P2104, 2122, 2127, 2132, 0107, and 0237, all related to APPS, BARO, and MAP sensor low. Disconnected all 3 sensors that feed off the circuit and had no vref power going to any of those sensors. Backprobed at PCM pins 29 and 45 and no vref there either. Checked resistance (and load tested with my 4656 bulb), short to ground/power thru all VREF circuits to the APPS, BARO, and MAP and all good there. Swapped in a known good PCM and still no change, so checked powers and grounds to PCM just in case and no issues there. Reflashed PCM as well to no change in the problem. Anyone got some helpful insight, or perhaps I may have missed something here?

http://www.nsapp.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/IDS_WebInstall/IDS-75.exe This what you're lookin for? On Edit: For future reference, if anyone else needs a prior version, just replace the "75" in that link with whatever version you are looking for and it will download that version. Most of the old versions are still there, just not well known.