Buddy_M

I recall in the workshop manual about adding a gallon of oil, but to also add I believe they also had you raise the rear end of the vehicle about a foot or so in the air to help submerge the front end of the pickup tube at the front cover. For road testing you could probably get away with adding 4-6 quarts and run it down the road if needed, if symptoms disappear, it's likely a pickup tube issue.

Did diag on one about 2 weeks ago with no airflow and just came in to start on it late yesterday, got box out this morning and taking break now before it goes back together.. yea I now understand why these are hell to pull in a 6.4, I popped out the dipstick and made it quite a bit easier to get the two nuts behind the engine. This truck has just over 50k miles, but engine hours are nearing the 11k mark. It sits on location just idling for weeks at a time during frac as this is the on site crew truck, they have 2 other trucks that come out to rotate crews.

I'm guilty of doing what I'm about to say but that's more with older models that have less sensitivity than the newer transistorized lighting, and your parts guy may have done this to your tech. Even though they installed the bulbs, is it possible your tech could have been given 3157 bulbs instead of 3457 or something along those lines. They are similar and can't tell the difference unless you look at the stamped on number for the most part, and that the different bulb is pissing off the GEM and causing the issue(even though we're talking not even a full amp of difference usually)? Are any codes stored in the GEM relating to turn signal circuits? Otherwise I'd be tempted to pull out the ampmeter and check amp draw and see if anything is unusual. Also, is there anything in programmable parameters about exterior lighting settings? I seem to recall something about them in the super duty platforms from dealing with a flatbed with extra lights, so may be something to check quick when the IDS is connected.

I've always been successful in pressuring the cooling system up to 18-20lbs(sometimes I'll push a lil higher if a stubborn leak) and disconnect both fuel feed lines at the filter and watch for which one drips out under pressure. It may also help to plug the block heater in also if it doesn't leak cold.

I haven't found anyone that lists composite gaskets for the newer engines, maybe my google skills are just going down, but none of the major manufacturers have listed an alternate that I could find. The random thought had just popped into my head last night of the older engines have a bigger warp tolerance so I compared the MLS gasket to a picture of the older composite online, and looked up a few associated parts to see if they were shared between the years with the gasket change. I'm going to order a early style gasket this afternoon to compare and if it lines up it definately will be an option I consider trying, at least its not hard to pull a head out of these cars if I have to do it again.

I picked up a 2000 Focus with the 2.0 SOHC motor a while back for a more efficient daily driver. While out a few weeks ago I noticed the coolant smell and after tearing it down proceeded to find the water pump had been leaking and head gasket blew. Check the head and could see daylight under a straightedge so thats beyond saving(takes too long to ship stuff to a machine shop here to deck it usually, so I'm looking at reman heads right now to also beat the intake seat issues) but the block even has a little bit of warpage, more than the MLS gaskets call for. I'm wondering if anyone has thought about or installed the 99-older composite gaskets from the same motors into the newer vehicles as it should compensate for the warp. As far as I can see physically, the gasket layout is the same, as well as torque specs and head bolts so I don't see why it cant work, just tryin to get some feedback on this thought since I'm not looking to turn this into a money pit by pulling the engine for machine work or replacing the engine at this point if I can help it.

I bought the 6.0/6.4 adapter and a cheap compression gauge set off ebay.. learned the hard way the couplers are not the same. Used one of the adapters in the ebay kit, and drilled & tap one end to 1/8 NPTF and threaded it to the compression adapter. Seems to read a little lower than it should due to the added volume I imagine, but have had it on known good engines so I know what to expect on good/bad engines.

http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas Q-180R4 is the 2011-up diesel guide. I keep that page bookmarked just for the odd wiring I occasionally do to newer and older trucks.

Looking at a very old document(that I just happened to find on an old drive about 3-4 days ago, good timing!) Try a 2000 Excursion 1C3F-AA/AB/AC/AD, YC3F-AVB or a 2001 Excursion XU7F-CA. Theres a few others that are from the same family that I can list up the tag numbers for as well if you want to try, then you should be able to lie thru IDS and blank path program it to what you want I believe so long as it's a type DPC-452.

Welder method has never failed me, however I don't weld a washer then a nut, I ground straight to the head I'm extracting, run the MIG a lil hotter than it needs, and weld a 3/8" nut directly to the stud. If it's broken inset to the head, I'll take my die grinder and a carbide to clean up any rust before welding it up to attach a nut. Wait about 30 seconds to a minute after welding and spin the stud out. Last V10 I did I had both sides(about 16 of the studs needed this method) done in about half hour.

I'll agree, the dealer here quit carrying SP, told me it's not even available since it's been replaced with LV. However the motorcraft oil distributor they buy from happens to be the same place I buy from now that I'm out of the dealer, and I have no issues getting either SP or LV from them and told me when I asked that they haven't heard anything about one being discontinued when I spoke to them last winter. I still keep multiple types on my shelf at least for the trucks that specify it. I prefer to refill with something that carries the spec of what should be in it, not a universal type. I do kind of wonder what the differences are and what can happen however, as a friend dumped 4 quarts of Type F into his 2001 Focus after he blew a cooler line this spring. I noticed the empty bottles after he had it fixed and had me come check it out. I suggested dumping the pan and flushing since he had ran it by then but he didn't want to, figured he'd take the risk, time will tell if that's a good choice or not for him.

I have reused a couple of the lines on one job I had taken on where I did not have to pull all the injectors, on re-torque I went 90*, or an additional 1/2 flat after the 60* turn. No leaks post repair, passed HP test, and I even checked with dye since I was curious if I could have caused an immediate leak. That was about 6 months ago and no complaints of rising oil levels either.

Mix up calipers when replacing side for side? Calipers are installed so the bleeders are on top? I've seen it done, was at the end of a long week for a fellow coworker and just missed it when going together.

OTC 7249 is my press set and harbor freight 60307 set is what I have, as well as a few pieces of pipe and 1/4" steel plate for the odd setup. My seal driver is a piece of 5/8" plate modified to work with a stemco wear sleeve driver, it works and cost me nothing to make and add to the collection so I can't complain. I drive out both ball joints with a large punch(1" diameter steel rod) and my 8lb hammer, press in the lower, and can usually drive the upper in with the adapter and the 8lb also. If all goes well, I'll knock out a set of ball joints with seals and u-joints in 2-3 hours.

The utility trucks here for the electric company I know on the bucket trucks I've seen come thru are all very clearly labeled on the boom that it is electrically insulated from the lower part and the truck so it should be safe for someone contacting the bed if the bucket or boom were to contact a power line. I don't know if they do any type of testing of them up here on a regular basis however.

Another option if he tows alot is offer as I have done to my truck which works great with the 6 speeds, I wired in my EBPV to an on-off-on toggle switch in the dash so it could be a cheap exhaust brake, or kick it on to warm up the engine and override the PCM control of it. My reasoning for the 3 position toggle, is I can completely shut it off so the PCM cant control it, turn it on manually, or allow the PCM to run it normally(which it doesn't even do that anymore, so its either on or off on mine now) I will say it works rather nice pulling heavy trailers for the extra braking effort, which definitely helps save my truck brakes. I just recently had to replace the front pads about a month ago, as they had been the same pads from when the truck rolled off the lot in 99.

I've tried a couple of their EGR coolers, every one I have had to tweak the coolant tube down a little bit to line up, I don't like their blue hose either, I have a stock pile of new blue hoses from Ford that I use with it, the Dorman hose seems to be just too damn big and rubs against the turbo pedestal in some trucks, or can't get on the one pedestal bolt. I've also seen one oil cooler leak, they have updated their gaskets now from talking with their tech support and filing a labor claim with them on that job, now they are purple instead of the green that there was a SSM about. Even the 4 o-rings between the cooler and cover swelled and destroyed the cooler trying to separate it to reseal it, so not a fan of the seal material they use after seeing that so it got an OE cooler after that. Another thing I seen in an update email from them a while back, they have the OE design fin type cooler for 04-up trucks, and they make a tube style in the square body cooler for the late models also.

And found the video from the guy he bought it from. http://youtu.be/CYDp6lrTnCA

OK, On a side note of fun little fast cars, how about the General Wee? Small block 350, unsure what model auto trans, thinkin the 350 transmission tho. Not much driveshaft to it, or room inside either.

Ah yes the Chevettes, I got 2 friends with them, one I went to college with and he was working next bay from me when I was still in the dealer scene, he had 2, both diesels, one was an auto, other a manual. Another friend just bought one about 2 weeks ago, also a diesel/manual. Took them out ice fishing those things were awesome on the ice, could really get em spinning around, also doubled as a nice non conspicuous hunting/fishing/trapping vehicle, ever try and stuff a deer in the back? Nobody believed that it would fit but we proved them wrong lol. Tryin to find a flexplate for the one now since it cracked, I kinda attribute that to pushing it at high speeds, and messing with the pump probably didnt help it any, and he sold the manual one a few years ago, so we're going to get it running again someday and have our old hunting rig back.

My week in hell started off with the other guy quitting on Sunday, so left me alone this week on a 77 motorhome no start that I started with a fuel pump, and finished by rebuilding the carb, and proceeded to bite me in the ass because I didn't see the old plastic spacer from the old gasket and set the new gasket on it, so it refused to run under 1500rpm. Now a 6.4 that has a leak in back somewhere after replacing both uppipes while it was apart for head gaskets/studs/injectors and some valve work. And 3 6.0's, one for head gaskets again, another for the death wobble, and the last started to run away while I was looking at it, never knew I could pull an airbox that quick to kill it lol, ended up having about 9 gallons of fuel/oil mix in the pan and proceeds to dump more fuel into the pan with KOEO. Ending it is a 7.3 with fuel in the coolant that I have yet to see which head is causing that problem.

I just pulled a 6.4 complete cab on last week, waiting for parts now unfortunately. I used 2 6.0 head bolts and the OTC 7100 Lifting eye set, set both lifting eyes so the hook from the hoist looped thru both eyes and picked it up and out. Using the lifting eyes I didn't have to modify any chain links, and I have 2 sets of the lifting eyes that I use for lifting a lot of things, they've picked a complete Detriot series 60 so a little 6.4 is nothing to em. One set has the original 1/2 hole, the other I have drilled out to 5/8" for larger bolts.

What about the possibility of installing a third deep cycle battery and a battery isolator/separator to supply power the inverter and take some of the load off the primary batteries and maybe ease up on the alternator since it wont monitor the high demand from the extra battery. Or look up a company of Mechman alternators, I installed a 320 amp unit in a Dodge pickup for a guy who is planning on installing a big sound system this summer, and he's adding 5 or 6 extra batteries to supply the power he is wanting to push. They come with a 2 year warranty, which is about as good as any other unit out there, but theres a price that will be paid for a high output unit.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/21286/TYTON-FIR-TREE-PUSH-MOUNT/ How about these if you can get parts to stock them for you.

No start 6.0, a couple import trucks for head gaskets, vac trailer that someone ran the wheel bearings out of oil and burned up the end of the axle. And finally a 6.4 that I just finished draining just over 11 gallons of oil/fuel mix from the pan. Gonna be one of those kinds of week by the look of the schedule so far.