Buddy_M

Myself and 2 other techs at our shop(oilfield fleet) asked about that this summer. We were fortunate enough to get the company to cover our tool insurance. I got 85,000 coverage on my stuff from the company, mostly due to my welders, pressure washer, and a lot of other equipment from my shop came with me.

I have a cheap toaster oven with a timer for these kind of jobs. Set timer for 10-15min with the bearings I would need, and when the timer went off I'd be ready to drop them on. I've also used a heat gun, or carefully with a small butane torch to heat the inner race, especially on driveshaft carrier bearings.

Couple years back I installed one of Dormans oil coolers, orings between cooler and cover swelled so bad i destroyed the cooler removing it when it leaked, and the green cover gasket was deteriorated and leaking. Dorman between the original install and second replacement had came out with different seals(new cover seal was purple I believe) that shouldnt have that problem. If it were me, if I had to use a Dorman cooler, Id at least get the OE gasket set and toss the seals that Dorman ships with it.

Tighten the nut down tight while spinning the wheel. Stop the wheel and back off 1/4 turn, and tighten just by finger tight, if its a castle nut with cotter pin I'll snug it up just a bit more if need be to line up for the pin. I've read it both ways as to increased bearing life with preload and having endplay. Some manufacturers want endplay, others preload. My method usually averages 0 endplay by dial indicator to slight preload, and never had any bearing failure in 13 years of setting that way since high school.

I've put an 05 engine into an 03 excursion before, just modified the harness pigtails as needed to connect everything up, had no driveability issues after it was done. I remember the 03 ICP sensors had leaking issues also, maybe a biased ICP sensor? May be worth a look to see if there's the oil in the connector shorting vref to the signal or the sensor itself is shorting under pressure?

All the dana axles I'vr ever set up have the carrier shims under the bearing cones. As I've done them I buy a second set of cones and open the bore with a sanding wheel and die grinder until they are a slip fit. Easier to adjust shims, then you are much more likely to be absolutely correct with backlash, gear pattern, and preload once you install new bearings for final assembly. Will save you a lot of time especially if you have to constantly adjust everything.

F81A-9B149-HA is what Im thinking, its the only number I see on the bodybuilder guide in the fuel tank section I have for a 2011 truck.

I just looked up aftermarket buyers guide info, they are all the same.. Thats something new to know about them.

Try a 99200 speedi sleeve from napa. I think hub diamater is 2.00" so that should be right number. Measure your hub and a good parts counterman should be able to reference it in their book if I'm wrong from memory. Repair sleeve numbers are quite easy too, the last 3 in the part number denotes approx shaft size it fits.

Yep I'd say Bruce would be close on price. We had the industrial/toolbox rep come by my work a couple weeks ago to peddle boxes. Talked one of my coworkers into a Mr Big toolbox for the cool price of nearly 20k(google it if need be, way too much box IMO, no side lockers or hutch on his yet..) I'm still on my same boxes from college, a Mac MB1080 Tech1000 triple bay, and a snapon road box sits on the top with my essentials I can load into the service truck when I need to go to the field. I paid 1800 for the mac, and 950 for the road box over 10 years ago with the college student discounts.

I do remember Mike talking about 04/05 excursions and the engines they used, found it just a few posts down from this one. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5876-2005-excursion-p0404-and-p1335/?do=findComment&comment=57366

All 3 of my early 99 trucks had the later style airbox when I bought the trucks, which I have long since changed to the AIS kit and run now. Only thing I have an issue with is on a brand new filter I can pull the restriction gauge down on a hard pull.

When I was still at the dealer nearly 9 years ago now, had an older tech there wondering that. I believe it was on a 5.4, and he figured what the torque was after the final turn using one of his torque wrenches. I only remember because he made a comment that one had a lower torque, so he had given it a little extra torque to make it even. I will say it never came back to bite him, was just in for the usual preventative maintenance that I remember.

Stuck/worn CV joint assembly on the front driveshaft, or a tight ujoint on rear shaft. The two times I have seen it have found a bad joint or the CV with it. The rear shaft out of phase may have also contributed to the failure, but I have accidentally done that to my own truck and didnt catch it for nearly a year and no damage was ever done. My oops was closer to 90 out, one of those cases i was in a rush(and of course its worse working on my own stuff for me) and just threw it in.

Another after thought, end play is the same as axial runout. May try to check lateral and radial runout at the rear flange if possible to show if the crank is bent and wobbling, and pry flange up/down to see if there is excessive play from the main bearings allowing too much runout, and not so much the thrust bearings.

Did you overhaul or replace the transmission, maybe worn pump bushing? Maybe a bad harmonic balancer or other issue causing engine to be out of balance (like a bent rod throwing a vibration you may not detect)? Relative compression and everything else OK? I seen dowels were checked, and adapter plate replaced so I wouldnt think they are continuing to be a cause unless the transmission case or block surface wasnt machined square.

Check the pin fitment close in the relay box using a similar sized pin. I had a truck just a couple years older than yours(98 K1500) tonite just before I left work that would randomly stall. Wiggle the fuel pump relay when it was running and could feel it click on and off. Took a small pick to get more tension on the offending pin sockets and cant duplicate the problem anymore.

Check with napa or another good parts store. When I was a partsman here I was able to cut the crimp shells off, and we had shells available to reuse ends with new hose, especially for odd ends. I still rebuild hoses, had an extra crimp tool set for refrigerant hoses given to me for my own tool set and has saved me a few times. Now if its a hole in the aluminum, you may be able to silver solder, TIG if you're good(but difficult with the oils in the pipe, its tricky) or there are crimp ferrule splice fittings that can be bought and installed, but it will make the line a little bulky due to size.

My parts catalog for an aftermarket reman show a single part number from them, and in the description it lists it replaces both of those tag numbers. I would assume they will interchange then, but makes me wonder what differences Ford had done between them.

I just re-read this and got to thinking a bit more, are they still using a version of the old style Dayton/Webb hubs with the 5 bolt style? Either 5/8 or 3/4 bolt(15/16, 1-1/16, or 1-1/8" head size?) Link may not post right from my phone, but second page and bottom half is what you would be looking for. I see a lot of Class 8 trucks in my current fleet, so I'll be honest that we use a lot of the German torque of goodentight and with loctite if in doubt on critical components, to me its not always possible or practical to use a torque wrench or multiplier on some parts in the MD/HD side of things. http://www.webbwheel.com/pdfs/literature/TorqueBrochure0409.pdf

STC fitting leaking(not sure right now date/serial number for update if it could have old style still?) Possibly nick an injector top o-ring on assembly? I'd say get your EOT as hot as possible again and air test it right away just to confirm no leaks again just to cover your bases from scratch. Never hurts to take a step back and recheck the basics.

I dont think you will find the information from Spicer by that axle either. From knowing their service manuals in the past, it most likely won't cover brake torque specs, just bare axle hardware. You will need to ID the brake manufacturer/model to locate your specs I would guess. If in doubt, what I would do in your case would be refer to the common torque specs for bolt grade/diameter/pitch and loctite to ensure it would not work loose.

Got an email from one of my distributors today and caught my eye that Moroso makes a silicone pan gasket for these. Be interesting to see how they work out when replacing leaking pans or other work, who wants to be the first one to try it out for us?

Yes it will need a new centering bolt, at least I have yet to ever come across one that is long enough to permit adding a leaf. Depending on spring width, picking up some wrecking yard spring packs for just a single leaf may be an option if you can't find a spring shop that will make one as a cheaper alternative than buying a complete pack for just 1 or 2 leafs.

I believe the last truck I rigged(keeping in mind this was a 2006 F550 back in 2006, so its been awhile) we got a complete spring pack from another truck to steal a single leaf or 2 and add in to account for crane weight and level out. Another option could be airbags/onboard compressor with dual control valve. The third option is with how they load their tools and to load more heavy tools on the opposite side to level it out also.