Buddy_M

I don't use that exact brand, but I am using an antifreeze that is meeting Cat's EC-1 spec. It's what I use in all the heavy trucks around here, and just easier to keep one antifreeze for me in the couple 5.9, 7.3, 6.0, as well as a couple 6.4's now, and haven't noticed any negatives with any kind of leaks appearing. The SCA precharge also doesn't make me worry about any cavitation issues, as I believe IH is using a similar EC-1 spec in their Maxxforce and VT series(maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong) so I am not worried about incompatibility with any gaskets or seals. Just make sure someone down the road doesn't confuse it with Dexcool.

Normally I have a few cores around, as well as a new injector or 2 always seems to be laying on my box, so I have been known to more than once plug in a new or a known good electrical side core injector to prove out wiring concerns.

As the subject says, I'm looking at buying some software for all makes/models basic information for working on some of this odd stuff that I have been seeing lately. Does anyone have experience with both maybe to give some pros/cons of these two? Or even if anyone has just access to one of these two that can give me a review of it and if you like the features of what you are using?

Quite a few years ago at a previous truck shop I got the task of setting up one of the new rural fire departments trucks. I got the fun of running a bunch of wiring for their rechargeable flashlights, hangers for their gear in the cabinets, and in one cabinet mounted a small breaker box for 110v power through the truck, and mounted the generator on a heavy duty slide out table and mounted the generator panel facing in and exhaust pointing out so it HAD to be pulled out to start and run.

Last one I bought was a GB reman. Cost was 275 exchanged, and haven't had any more issues with the truck yet, and customer is happy and that is all that matters. Actually bought another one for that price that is on my shelf waiting for the next truck to come through with a failure.

Keith, these are unit injectors in this engine. I have never been into a C7/C9 so I dont know what type they use. The injector sleeves in the C15/3406E engines are a stainless sleeve, that is threaded inside already for the removal/install tool to no chips to worry about. On the outside they are grooved for a double o-ring seal on the top, and the loctite 620 green sleeve retainer for the lower seal. I just pulled all 6 sleeves and only found one that had both o-rings damaged in addition to the lower oring on the injector being damaged that was my source. Now just to start cleaning up the head and reassembly after lunch.

OK, I just had a truck come in with fuel in the coolant. Of course this had to happen just a week after I put a water pump on this engine, so I believe they may be thinkin I did something to cause this. One driver did tell me this has been ran low on coolant several times while the water pump was out however. I have never done sleeves in a cat engine before. This is a 6NZ engine, I pulled all 6 injectors out and 5 of the 6 injectors had severely damaged lower o-rings. I am planning on replacing all injector orings and all 6 sleeves to fix this issue. Is there anything else I should watch out for or anything different that is recommended to do if anyone else has experience in this department?

Yes! I dont feel so stupid now. I replaced a complete 6.8 just over a year ago now, and didn't expect the engine to come with oil. Dumped in 7qt and fired it up, ran rough with all sorts of problems. Checked dipstick and found it way over full. Drained 7qt back out to proper level and ran just fine after that.

Most of the A/C systems I work on are in heavy trucks(Kenworth, Peterbilt, Freightliner systems). Also see a few light/medium duty also. I have seen high side pressures between 300-400, however as stated above, I do have a fan I built that has a high airflow that I will put in front of a light/medium vehicle to move air through the condensor to drop high side pressures, and allows me to check the performance of the system to how it would work going down the road with maximum airflow. With the heavy side, I can usually just flip a switch and engage the fan clutch to get airflow to drop my high side pressure.

I've installed only one Auburn unit and that was several years ago in a mud toy for a guy, and he loved it. I have also installed a few of the Detroit True Trac units, and will be installing another one next week in a GM 10 bolt rear end after the new carrier and bearing kit arrive next week. After seeing how they are built I lean towards recommending the True Trac units, only because of the lack of any kind of clutch plates/cones so there is no worry about what kind of oil can be used or have to use an additive. I have also installed an Eaton posi(clutch plate type) in the rear of my 99 F250 which came stock open. Only noticed a difference on ice, snow, and mud and had much better traction to get through. I also have a LockRight in the front axle, and haven't gotten stuck yet having that combo.. however having a locker in the front definately will make for some interesting driving situations if you hit dry pavement or gravel and try to turn.

I am loving these temps! The new wife and I are celebrating our Honeymoon in Las Vegas. We went from around 70 for highs back home in ND to 100-110 for daytime highs and absolutely loving it(And have even made some money playin the slots here!)

That process sounds just like the Nikasil plating done in the import Yamaha/Suzuki/etc motorcycle engines and other powersports equipment with aluminum blocks.

I swapped a 96/97 motor into my 99 truck last summer since I couldn't justify the cost of a reman with the mileage I had. 7/8 expansion plug to plug the hole for the fuel pump. Is yours a early 99 or late 99 that it's going into? If early 99, the intake covers are the same except the passenger side has an extra port the late models do not for the MAP sensor, late 99 will need to be changed. Swap injectors since you'll be going from AA to either AB or AD injectors. Turbo, pedestal, uppipes will need to be swapped. Front cover and oil pan depending on what cover it has and the oil pump pickup. Like as they said above, the engine I got had a cracked front cover, so I ended up having to strip it down to a long block and switch all my parts to the replacement engine.

Took a break tonight then started looking thru the coffee table books, and it was the change from the quick connect to the bolt down style turbo oil feed is why the old style is no longer available. This one has the later connection so I should be ok to use the 05 design, and I was also aware of the test port, which was eliminated in running changes as well.

Hoping someone will know an answer to this, I have a 04 F-350 6.0 in the shop with a broken oil cooler cover causing a coolant leak at the egr coolant port. Ford is telling me the 04 cover is no longer available, but changed numbers in 05 and they are still available. I cannot recall any differences, and since the oil cooler itself is the same, so I am wondering if the 05 cover will work on this truck, or what else I may have to update to make it work.

I overhauled a 7.3 in one of my previous trucks due to ether damage, had to have 7 holes bored .030" over, and the #7 hole sleeved and bored also. The machine shop I used did not say anything about cavitation erosion in these blocks, but I have heard it being more common in the IDI engines. I had the block magnafluxed as well to check for problems, and after it was reassembled I never had any issues and the next owner is still running it around here. If the cooling system was decently maintained and looking in the expansion plugs shows the walls ok to not cause any worries, I wouldn't see any reason if it was mine to sleeve all 8 holes. Or you can search around for a shop that has the ultrasonic cylinder gauge and can check cylinder wall thickness for cavitation issues.

Did you check the pilot bearing when everything was apart? That will cause the input to move around, and could cause the clutch chatter and for it to pop out of 4th gear.

Yes they will interchange without issue. I have two now I purchased off car-part, and one had a low FICM main power, took it apart and soldered it to use as a tester, and has always worked, one is a 4 and other is a 7, and I dont pay attention to which one I use if I want to swap in a known good FICM.

Hmm, lets see, my list to finish thru the weekend are 6 trucks for accessory installs, a 6.0 for a couple injectors, 3 separate 7.3's, 2 are no starts, and one thats due for a set of injectors and exhaust leaks, and a Detroit Series 60 that had the bearing on the bull gear let go and wiped out the front gear train. Poor driver for that truck is stuck up here from Texas staying in his sleeper until it gets fixed.

Come on over to Williston ND, you start at $15/hour at the McDonalds here because of the oil activity. Mickey D'z, Arbys, Taco Johns, etc all have signs up hiring, and start in the 10-15/hour range minimum no matter what position you take because most people are going to oilfield paying $25-30/hr starting, so they have to pay higher wages to compete with the oilfield here.

Around the time when I asked that question, I spoke to Bill at Superior Injection, and he had told me the plunger/barrel coating was the difference, and he had seen them come as the later number with the uncoated plunger/barrel, and early numbers reman'd with the coated plunger/barrel IIRC. I have also installed the later injectors in 2 separate early engines mixed with 3C and 4C numbers and have seen no issue with performance or drivability complaints, and power balance screen at least shows no erratic issue with the late injectors. With my personal experience, at this point I believe they may be interchanged, however I'm sure others here have different views and to each their own.

Was at a local parts store a few weeks ago, and seen a customer picking up a radiator for a 6.4, paid over 1000 for it with shipping. At the time didnt even know what Ford listed them for, but the next day for shits and grins I called and priced one out and was surprised to hear it only listed out around 750-800 thru the dealer. I mentioned that after I found out to the parts guy at the store and he was shocked to hear that Ford was actually less than their cost on the aftermarket radiator.

I seem to have been punished for being asked to look at this, at least to look at it with what little GM experience I have.. Its a 2005 GMC C4500, 7.8 diesel, with the allison auto(LTC1000?). Only complaint is the PRNDL letters show on the cluster, but the box does not appear around the letters to indicate what gear is selected, and it feels to stay in either 1st or 2nd gear limp mode and will not shift from that gear. All I have for a scan tool that will hook up is the OTC Genisys, it pulls a code U0101, from the engine pcm, which is a TCM communication problem from what I can find about that code, but scan tool will not communicate with the TCM. Checked all fuses, all are good and present in the fuse boxes. Is there anyone here with some GM medium duty experience that can give me some insight on if this is a known or common issue? Otherwise it will probably be getting trucked to the other corner of the state and they would like to avoid that expense if possible right now.

Anyone know the difference exactly between the 3C3Z AND 4C3Z injectors on the 6.0? I was told the later were just coated plunger & barrel assembly and would interchange either way. I have put the 4C3Z in where it calls for 3C3Z and had to running/drivability issue with the repair after. Reason for asking is I had the local parts dept get into a little argument where they said it was ok to put the 4C in place of a 3C, but cannot install the 3C where it calls for the 4C. From my prior speaking with people, I don't think there was any physical dimension difference internally between the two and will easily interchange without issue, and just want to see if anyone here possibly knows for sure. Or get some others' thoughts on it even?

Actually, he did post the truck on here before, I remembered it was in the 400k mile range because there isn't many vehicles around here that I hear of hitting that high, so thats how I came to my milage guess