HP fuel pump banjo fittings?

[cbriggs]

Has anybody discovered a way to make the viton seals not leak on the two low pressure banjo fittings at the hp pump? I have had 2 leak on me now, First one I caught before assembly as it was dripping from gravity, second one was on friday, fully reassembled and running with fuel dripping off trans. The lines were not crushed, all sealing surfaces were flat and clean, wsm instructions and torque spec were followed. Both times I replaced them with copper and were all good after.

[Jeff Clyde]

I coat them liberally with oil and slowly work them into place. Knock on wood, I have never had one leak.

[Fordracer]

I've had a few leak on me in the past but since Ford said to lube them first I have had no problems.

[Matt Saunoras]

I've never had one leak. Lately I've been exceeding the torque spec of 18 lb/ft by about 30 degrees of rotation. I always replace the caps with new ones and I always watch the washers to make sure they stay centered

 

Call me crazy but 18 just doesn't feel tight to me

[Steve Mutter]

I always replace the two bolts as well. No leakers yet

[joshbuys]

Only ever had one leak on me - the first one I did, and that was because I'd forgotten you had to replace the pump if the fitting backed off (it'd been a year since I went to class and I hadn't worked on one since class!). Had to put a pump in it after that....eat my time!

[Mikill]

i have an hfcm harness that i plug into the pump and add power and ground and allow to run for a couple of minutes while inspecting the fittings.

[joshbuys]

i have an hfcm harness that i plug into the pump and add power and ground and allow to run for a couple of minutes while inspecting the fittings.

 

 

Not a bad idea, I've got one of them I use to bleed the lp system and pump gas out of diesel's I guess I'll have to start using it to check my work too!

[Keith Browning]

i have an hfcm harness that i plug into the pump and add power and ground and allow to run for a couple of minutes while inspecting the fittings.

 

Great idea! You could purge the system and then check for leaks before lowering the body.

 

I have never been bitten by thisbut I don't want there to be a first time. Great topic!

[cbriggs]

I lubed them with diesel fuel, Maybe engine oil will hang on better. I also agree that 18ft/lbs doesnt feel right, maybe thats the main problem?

 

I am assuming you guys are leaving the fuel coolers in place and removing the coolant lines to lift the cab? I always remove the fuel and vgt coolers as a unit and set them on the inner fender.(to avoid opening the coolant system) I wanted to pressure up the system when the cab was up, but couldn't figure out a way to seal the fuel lines.

 

On a side note, the spare hp oil pump plugs that come with a 6.0l stc fitting kit work perfect to seal the fuel banjo fitting holes on the fuel cooler.

[Keith Browning]

On a side note, the spare hp oil pump plugs that come with a 6.0l stc fitting kit work perfect to seal the fuel banjo fitting holes on the fuel cooler.

Excellent tip. I have been using rubber line plugs that don't always seal very well or stay in place.

[Bruce Amacker]

Originally Posted By: Mikill

i have an hfcm harness that i plug into the pump and add power and ground and allow to run for a couple of minutes while inspecting the fittings.

 

Not a bad idea, I've got one of them I use to bleed the lp system and pump gas out of diesel's I guess I'll have to start using it to check my work too!

OK, I've having trouble envisioning this. The cab is up, you're jumpering power to the HFCM and running the engine for 2-3 minutes without coolant to check for fuel leaks. This seems like a great idea but seems like there's a ton of stuff that needs to be hooked up to do this, isn't there? The PCM is in the cowl, so you're yanking it and hanging it on top of the engine? How about PS, trans and misc lines- no belt? Trans cooler? Misc harnesses that are needed to run it?

 

I like the idea, please give me a short list of what needs to be jumpered to make it work.

 

Thanks!

 

[DieselD]

Bruce I beleive what he is saying is he is powering up the hcfm off batttery power and pressurizing the low fuel system to bleed and check the fittings at the injection pump before dropping the cab. This of course would involve having the fuel coolers hooked up. I assume he is taking the coolant lines off and leaving it bolted to the turbo instead of laying the whole unit off to the side on the inner fender like most.

[Keith Browning]

These are the low pressure supply lines Bruce. All that is happening is the HFCM is being run to circulate fuel though the system. If those fittings are leaking this should make this evident

[Brad Clayton]

I got photos but their at the house. I'll look for them tonight.

[Bruce Amacker]

10-4. I misunderstood the OP.

 

Thanks,

 

[lmorris]

I used to power up the pump all the time until it came back and bit me in the ass once. Did not leak with the cab up, but it leaked once the customer got it back.

 

Once I found out about oiling up the washers, I stopped testing it before dropping the cab and have had no leaks to this day...knock on wood...

[Matt Saunoras]

I have a fused harness I made that plugs right into the HFCM has 2 aligator clips and color coded wires for the battery terminals

 

The other guy I work with accuses me of having too much time on my hands. I'll tell you what though, when you prime the fuel system before dropping the cab down it takes a lot less cranking to get the truck to run.

[mchan68]

OK, I've having trouble envisioning this. The cab is up, you're jumpering power to the HFCM and running the engine for 2-3 minutes without coolant to check for fuel leaks. This seems like a great idea but seems like there's a ton of stuff that needs to be hooked up to do this, isn't there? The PCM is in the cowl, so you're yanking it and hanging it on top of the engine? How about PS, trans and misc lines- no belt? Trans cooler? Misc harnesses that are needed to run it?

 

I like the idea, please give me a short list of what needs to be jumpered to make it work.

 

Thanks!

 

I too, have an old HFCM harness that I extended the length on the power and ground to the fuel pump with wiring and alligator clips that will connect to a battery. I use it to bleed the fuel system on 6.4Ls when changing fuel filters and draining vehicles that have been gassed up. Unfortunately, the 6.7L DFCM fuel pump connector is different so I'll have to find a pigtail to rig up a similar "tool".

 

If I were doing a HPFP on a 6.4L, I too would connect the jumper to the HFCM to check for leaks too. As far as power steering and trans lines are concerned, I would run the engine temporarily using Brake Parts Cleaner with the drive belt off (no load on the engine while cranking it, and no power steering fluid being pumped), connect a hose between the transmission cooler lines (so that fluid doesn't exit and make a mess all over the place). Doing this would likely achieve having to crank the engine much much less to get it fire up once the cab is dropped, and also ensure there are no leaks as well.

[Bruce Amacker]

It's too bad the FP on a 6.4 is only 5-6lbs or so. It seems leaks would show up better under more pressure, like jacking the FPR up.

 

Soooooo, in a theoretical world, what would it take to run the motor with the cab up?

 

[Keith Browning]

Soooooo, in a theoretical world, what would it take to run the motor with the cab up?

I think it would not be easy as the required wiring is up in the air.

 

BUT!

 

Theoretically, you don't have to button up the cab re-install to run the engine. You could drop the body down, restore the two harness connections near and at the PCM and the three connections at the left front spring tower. Then all you need to do is temporarily lay the driver's side battery in the engine compartment to connect the chassis power lead. Then you could purge the system of air and run the engine a minute or two and check for leaks. It would take probably 10 minutes? If there is a leak you saved time from not having to re-remove the body and if there are no leaks then the 10 minutes is really not lost... just continue buttoning up the cab.

[BrunoWilimek]

Has anybody discovered a way to make the viton seals not leak on the two low pressure banjo fittings at the hp pump? I have had 2 leak on me now, First one I caught before assembly as it was dripping from gravity, second one was on friday, fully reassembled and running with fuel dripping off trans. The lines were not crushed, all sealing surfaces were flat and clean, wsm instructions and torque spec were followed. Both times I replaced them with copper and were all good after.

Both of us diesel techs here will never trust the v(I sp)it on seals again after getting burnt once. I did one engine under warranty and had the seals leak after dropping the cab, even though I followed the shop manual religiously. Replaced them with copper and all was good. I didn't find the SSM about lubing them until after they leaked and I checked OASIS. If it is that important to lube them, it should be in the shop manual. I tried to get extra warranty time for re-lifting the cab but was denied, so even though warranty will not pay for the copper ones, on principle, I will show using them on paper and substitute the copper ones instead.

[Bruce Amacker]

FYI: When using copper on brake banjos, I always smack them moderately with a hammer and brass punch and retighten. I remember seeing them seep brake fluid brand new from the factory. It might not be a bad idea to do this on the fuel banjos.