GregH Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 So, the 6.7 says to use an impact to remove the body bolts, and a jack to assist with the two front mounts. Anyone been here before? I'm pulling my first 6.7 body, but I've been around the block a few times with the 6.4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 They say the same for the 2008-2010 MY also. Never tried it myself. I usually heat the nuts first and claim the time to access them. No sense taking the chance of having them spin if you can get paid to access the cage nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I just used a ratchet and it worked fine on the ones I have done. They seem to loosen up easier than 6.4's. Here is a PDF I made of cab removal on 11's 2011 Super Duty Cab Removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 The WSM states to use an IMPACT gun? Have they changed the cage bolt design? For the record, here in NJ the two front body bolts are almost guaranteed to spin if the truck has gone through at least one winter. I can get a headlamp out and heat the nut cherry red in about 5 minutes and they come out like buttah with a 3/8" air ratchet. Do you Canadian tech's call it a 10 MM air ratchet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I still had the front ones spin on the one I did. heated them with butane and held them with my "special" bent wrench I don't even mess around with rear cage nuts either. I hold them with a 7/8s up top and gun em out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Butane ain't hot enough son. We are not talking about softening up some thread locking compound or melting a plastic bolt retainer cap. Corrosion requires HEAT. Acetylene heat directly to the nut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Here is a PDF I made of cab removal on 11's Thank you Brad. This was really informative, clear and easy to follow... Oh, I haven't spun any cage nuts yet. But I did snap the head off the right front bolt. How the hell does that happen?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I did snap the head off the right front bolt. How the hell does that happen?? Eeesh! Probably a defect in the bolt but that is no small fastener to have fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 The WSM states to use an IMPACT gun? Have they changed the cage bolt design? For the record, here in NJ the two front body bolts are almost guaranteed to spin if the truck has gone through at least one winter. I can get a headlamp out and heat the nut cherry red in about 5 minutes and they come out like buttah with a 3/8" air ratchet. Do you Canadian tech's call it a 10 MM air ratchet? No we still use the old 3/8 or 1/2 inch terms...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I had to read the WSM twice when I did mine. It does say to use a impact on the body bolts. When I did mine I broke them free by hand then gave it hell with my impact. No issues and they came right out much easier then the 6.4 cabs. However Im in AZ so no rust here!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Just did an 08 F350 and went by the shop manual which said to use an impact(didn't used to say that)and push up on the body to prevent the cage nuts from spinning. I tried that with the front 2 and they just spun. I then welded the cage nuts to the rad support, then welded all the rest also. I did one at a time and the heat from welding them allowed the bolts to come out OK. I think just heating the rear nuts would work also. I also see that the shop manual no longer has you replace the body bolt, just wire brush the loctite off and put new loctite on(I used anti-seize instead). Wow, Brad, that 2011 PDF file is awesome. I immediately printed it off for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 I just used a ratchet and it worked fine on the ones I have done. They seem to loosen up easier than 6.4's. Here is a PDF I made of cab removal on 11's2011 Super Duty Cab Removal This link does not work anymore, was it removed for a reason? Or is it just a website issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 This link does not work anymore, was it removed for a reason? Or is it just a website issue?I fixed the links to this document in this thread. We had a couple of websites hotlinking to my documents so I had to change a few things with the tech resources. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 one more thing.....the statement about emergency cable......you need to add this "after disconnecting the union, released the cable slowly " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Very impressive write up by Brad Clayton on the cab removal. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Thank you kind sir! Some things have changed since that document was made, but it gets you in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vloney Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34869 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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