Jump to content

Upfitter Switch Wiring Information

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...

So here is a valid concern/question...

 

I completely understand why the up-fitters are wired to KOEO power to avoid a accidental battery drain when the vehicle is sitting there. However what I am noticing with our fleet is the guys will leave the truck running rather then shutting it off then turning the key back on to ACC. Not to mention sitting there with the key on running the upfitters is not much better on battery drain. I am trying to lower the idle times on these trucks without PTOs and the upfitters only working with the key on seem to keep coming up in the discussion.

 

Remember our guys are tire guys that are not always the brightest so I can try and educate them until blue in the face but it will not make a difference. Posted Image

 

So my question is what are your guys thoughts on "hotwiring" for lack of better term to allow the up fitters to operate at all times? This is really no different then blowing a hole in the dash and wiring a toggle switch which I hate btw! From the looks of the wire schematic CBP42 from the SJB needs battery voltage and not ACC voltage, a simple reroute might be the trick.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Of course it would be fused and relayed as needed if I modify it, The same can not be said to past builds before I came on board. Posted Image

 

As far as the battery getting run down it happens now on trucks with or without. They are going to get switches of some sort no matter what. I have even had them kill the batterys with the upfitter switches. The driver kept cycling the key after the battery saver kicked in. Most guys are pretty good about shutting their strobes/beacons and work lights off when done using them. I am installing mostly LED work lights and strobes now to aid in the battery loads however there are times when they need to have their lights on for several hours. Its simply a waste to idle the truck for that long for nothing but running some work lights.

 

I also believe there are aftermarket options for battery minders that will warn via back up alarm then shut down the accessory when battery voltage drops below a threshold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also believe there are aftermarket options for battery minders that will warn via back up alarm then shut down the accessory when battery voltage drops below a threshold

If that is true then they would probably pay for themselves in no time on fuel savings and service intervals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about a timer switch for the accessorie/s, just reset the switchand start the truck for a few minutes to keep the battery charged up, then shut it down. My former/former manager at the ambulance co. was talking about doing that becuase the emt's/medics would leave shit on and walk away in the feild and at the base. It never happened, guess it was'nt in the budget.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about a timer switch for the accessorie/s, just reset the switchand start the truck for a few minutes to keep the battery charged up, then shut it down. My former/former manager at the ambulance co. was talking about doing that becuase the emt's/medics would leave shit on and walk away in the feild and at the base. It never happened, guess it was'nt in the budget.

The only thing you get from making something "idiot-proof" is better idiots... Accessory delay relays - battery isolator switches - chassis batteries - module (coach) batteries... where does it end and sanity begin?

 

Yes, I've had a bad day... a day that promises that this week will not be any better than last week. If I have one more drink, I promise to relate some of my "interesting life".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no doubt you will rewire them in a safe and correct manner, the question is will these guys be running the batteries down with whatever they are running with the engine off?

What I fail to understand.... first, an interesting factoid - 115 volt work lights are sooooooo much better than 12 volt work lights... ask any serious fire department guy.... Any serious emergency response vehicle would/should be equipped with a decent 115 volt genset/inverter.

 

If your ambulance/first responder is on station away from a hall - run the genset to power a battery charger/inverter/block heater (even an air compressor if required)much like a shore line in the hall. The genset would take nearly pennies an hour to operate - especially compared to what idling a diesel can do to your budget.

 

Some might insist that they cannot dedicate a compartment to a genset due to space constraints... I reply that, given the possible consequences, you can't afford NOT to.

 

It is much easier to be stupid than it is to be wise. And if it is your EMTs that act stupid, I pray I never visit you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gensets work great, when those that use them know to properly ventilate them, etc.

 

a local environmental fleet had their o & m trucks equipped with damn expensive Honda generators. 4 trucks had bedliners melted out of them, 2 trucks burned to the ground and a couple of others the generators overheated, when started, then left in a closed utility body compartment. Not to mention the stolen ones, ones that fell off the trucks on the highway, etc.....

 

Now they run inverters, 3500 watt, so, now they bake batteries and alternators, and the idiots cover the fan cooled inverters with all kinds of junk, that are mounted on the right rear floor as requested, an anodized black inverter will turn pretty rainbow colors in a short time.

 

It seems you really can't fix stupid.

 

Jim, sometimes I'd rather have a slow/stupid EMT that'll do his/her job, vs what I've been seeing around here. A story that may offend, so I'll hold back a bit on that one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite a few years ago at a previous truck shop I got the task of setting up one of the new rural fire departments trucks. I got the fun of running a bunch of wiring for their rechargeable flashlights, hangers for their gear in the cabinets, and in one cabinet mounted a small breaker box for 110v power through the truck, and mounted the generator on a heavy duty slide out table and mounted the generator panel facing in and exhaust pointing out so it HAD to be pulled out to start and run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last new truck our local FD purchased before I left had the genset mounted under the passenger side cab steps. It could be started from the drivers chair and powered 110 volt work lights at each corner of the deck as well as powering several strategically placed 110 volt outlets. Nothing needed to be done before firing up the genset.

 

NOV Tuboscope has many inspection trucks (non-destructive radioactive pipe and tubing inspection, to oversimplify) that require powerful gensets to run their test equipment and computers. These diesel generators also require no special preparations prior to running the generators.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am just running strobes and work lights which are mostly LED lighting. No need for a giant genset or inverter to run 110v lights to change truck tires on the side of the highway....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...