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Smoking 6.4s...

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Alex, his name isn't Alex is it?

 

No.  He's not new to the dealership.  Just new to me.  He just graduated from ASSET :cover: .  He's actually alright.  A little cocky.  Reminds me a bit of myself when I was his age.  I've been tasked to whip him in to shape.  The way they do shit around here, he'll probably be on flat-rate by the end of the week.  :flamethrower:  :surprise:

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Mine needs head gaskets.....Just had a long block put in. IIRC it was a bugger to bleed the cooling system when I put it in. Now I know why.

That is very odd. I have never seen mls head gaskets leak so much that it would smoke out the tail pipe.  Who's long block? Ford's? I would have a close look at the heads for sure.

 

It's a Ford/Vulcan engine. Not sure if the white smoke is directly linked to the head gaskets, it didn't smell like coolant. Just finished up the job and going for a drive, we shall see if the smoke stops. Heads are fine visually, no warpage, very minor crack by one valve seat, but Ford says those are normal. Cylinder walls look good too.

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I know there are several different possibilities for an intermittent white smoke condition but climate seems to have an

 

effect here.(Portland Oregon) I notice the complaint increases in the fall and winter months. I always check the CAC for

 

water. Even if it has the updated CAC and appears dry(at the bottom of the CAC) I remove the cold side CAC tube and

 

inspect around the intake butterfly. I usually find some evidence of water.

 

This water will usually get pushed into the intake only on moderate/heavy acceleration. It appears that even the updated

 

CAC is too efficient especially if you live in a climate with high humidity.

 

I hope this information helps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took the truck home for the night, 30 minute highway drive each way with some city driving before and after, no smoke.

Update: It's back, coolant blowing out the degas again. Pulled the heads and are still straight, crack by one valve seems harmless. Checked the block distortion and it is over spec. I guess we will be putting in a short block.

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I'm looking at mine right now, too.  This time, I do have a discrepency in relative compression, which I never had with this vehicle.  So, I've done a manual compression test, and I have 6 cylinders in the 375 psi range, and I have one cylinder at 300 psi, and another one at 290 psi.  I'll give a donut to whoever can guess which 2 cylinders are low...

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I'm looking at mine right now, too.  This time, I do have a discrepency in relative compression, which I never had with this vehicle.  So, I've done a manual compression test, and I have 6 cylinders in the 375 psi range, and I have one cylinder at 300 psi, and another one at 290 psi.  I'll give a donut to whoever can guess which 2 cylinders are low...

Did you find what caused the cylinder damage? 

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I'm looking at mine right now, too.  This time, I do have a discrepency in relative compression, which I never had with this vehicle.  So, I've done a manual compression test, and I have 6 cylinders in the 375 psi range, and I have one cylinder at 300 psi, and another one at 290 psi.  I'll give a donut to whoever can guess which 2 cylinders are low...

Did you find what caused the cylinder damage? 

 

I have my apprentice doing the job, so he's just got the cab off.  I suspect it will be the typical bent rod/piston protrusion issue and/or a nice, shiny cylinder wall.  This vehicle has had a few injector issues in the past, so that further solidifies my suspicion.

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