EGR Cooler Performance (P2457)

[Alex Bruene]

This topic has made me rethink the whole intake manifold removal thing.  It is certainly easier to remove the cooler with the intake removed, and since I've seen so many EGR cooler failures lately, I've decided to start removing the intake.  Yesterday, my apprentice timed me removing the upper.  It took me 8 minutes.  Why the phuck have I not been doing it like this all along?

[Keith Browning]

Here is the minimalist approach as I mentioned. It is not difficult at all.

[mchan68]

Again, how do you access the EBP tube nut? There's also the two plastic pushpins from the sound insulator that really pisses me off. How do you access those? Do you just break and replace? The last time I checked on the price of those I was blown away.

[lmorris]

Accessing the the EBP nut is not that bad with the heater hose out of the way. The two plastic shield clips can be removed with a pry bar an hammer, at least that's how I do it, there is 3 more on that shield, so I don't see an issue. I got sick of scratching up my arm, and on one the cooler snagged the fuel return line and broke it, didn't notice it till the truck was running though   . Luckily my boss was nice enough to shop time the repair. Like Alex said, it doesn't take very long to remove it, there is no real time gain by leaving it on IMO.

[Alex Bruene]

I break the sound insulator push pins and don't reinstall them.  I agree that the short time involved in removing the upper doesn't warrant destroying my arm to loosen the ebp tube nut.

[Keith Browning]

As mentioned, moving the heater hose allows room and visibility to get your hand back there with a ratcheting wrench and my arms are not small by any means. With the PCM harness bracket out of the way you can easily put a small pair of pliers on the sound insulation retainers and spin them out. If they refuse then a swift whack with a pry bar will knock them off if you have to resort to that

[ablokzyl]

I don't pull the whole cooler assembly out. I just pull the egr assembly off the front of the assembly and pull the cores out in vehicle. Lube up the rear of the cores when they get put back in so I don't roll an o-ring. Doesn't take much time at all.

[Matt Saunoras]

That sounds like the worst idea I've ever heard. Those back o-rings take a beating. I've seen more than a few that looked like they were leaking.

[ablokzyl]

I have NEVER had a problem and I have done a ton!

[lmorris]

How do you get the core out without damaging the case? First one I ever did I tried to pry out and it was going to damage the case surface before the core came out. Not that I would ever do it this way, just asking. Plus, using any lubricant other than orange coolant on the new core to oring surface can damage the cooling system. I see no advantage to doing it this way. 

[amailloux]

You reuse the old rear O-rings, or do you have a way of getting way in there.  I usually have to clean out the o-ring grooves in the housing with a scotch brite because they get crumbs in them upon removal.  Also takes me a pretty good hammer to knock the core out.

[ablokzyl]

I pry the core out and never damaged a case. I lube the core with coolant so nothing get contaminated. I reuse the O-rings. The advantage of doing it this way is that it takes 45 min to do the whole job.

[Alex Bruene]

I've thought about it, but I don't think it's worth the potential of missing something wrong with the rear seals. JMHO.

[8WA Sman]

Plus, using any lubricant other than orange coolant on the new core to oring surface can damage the cooling system.

Just curious if this info is in service information or where you learned this.

[Keith Browning]

I will have to admit that early on I did wonder if this was possible.

[Alex Bruene]

I lubricate everything with silicone dielectric grease.  I always have.  I've never had an issue.

[8WA Sman]

I also use silicone dielectric grease, I try not get crazy with it. If someone knows of a problem with it I would be more then happy to use something else.

 

I do however seem to remember something in the GDI class about not using silicone grease on the injector or fuel system O-rings????

[lmorris]

 

Plus, using any lubricant other than orange coolant on the new core to oring surface can damage the cooling system.

Just curious if this info is in service information or where you learned this.

 

 

The WSM says to use coolant. We were having a bugger of a time "pushing" the core in so I asked hotline if any other lubricant could be used to ease installation. They said to use only non-mixed orange coolant, as anything else with cause contamination to the coolant. They may have said that just to cover their own asses. They also said we could use a piece of wood big enough to cover both core extensions, have something between the wood and the core for protection, and we could hammer the core done into the housing. Which is what I do.

[Matt Saunoras]

I've been using a very small amount of engine oil to help slide the cooler in (a drop or two and no more).  I tried coolant like the WSM says and it made it significantly harder.  I set the far end with no end cap on the concrete floor and kneel down on the core with most of my body weight.  That seems to do the trick.

[Keith Browning]

I assemble the gaskets and valve onto the assembly and tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern.

[lmorris]

Another issue I see with re-using the orings is that sometimes I have seen a claim rejected because some parts are missing from a gasket kit in the parts return. Seeing as most of these are warranty jobs, I wouldn't chance it.

[Matt Saunoras]

I have never had a cooler or gaskets called back by ford. In fact I can't really remember the last time they called something back from me. (Aside from my SPW 6.4 t-stats )

[lmorris]

During re-assembly of the retail one currently in my bay, something else popped into my head. The valve cover to housing gaskets were, after 210,000 kms, a little tired. If one was to do this repair without removing the housing, and say down the road those gaskets started to leak, who covers that repair?