RyanG

Doing the exact same thing right now. Boom truck that wont run, I was only able to tilt the cab back a few inches. Truck was from out of state and came in for oil change and def top off. Oil change guy put def in the fuel tank, truck made it about 3 miles and quit. High pressure pump locked up and the crank gear spun on the crank. Oil change guy realized he put a gallon or so of def in it before he stopped and switched the nozzle over to the fuel tank fill but he assured me that it was ok because he drove it around the block before giving the truck back to the customer.

Never updated this one. Found fuel in the oil which explained all the weird icp issues. Resealed all the injectors and changed the oil, never could smell the fuel in the oil but finally noticed how thinned out the oil was when it was hot. That and the fact that my latex gloves started deteriorating the longer the oil was on my hands. Glad its gone but felt like a dumbass after realizing the problem was right in front of me. First time ever running into fuel in oil on 6.0.

I went from hardly ever working on 6.4s to seeing them all the time and it seems to me they are just done at 200,000 even with decent maintenance and up keep. Its either a fuel system, turbos, short block, dpf or a combination of the bunch which all are extremely expensive fixes. Other than fleets, nobody from my experience even thinks about doing some of the repairs once they're handed the estimate. They simply tell me to put it back together and there going to get rid of it(if its an option). Just wondering what some of you think.

matt ive notice that as well. I'm thinking the 13 and up had the turbo system relearn.

ok truck is back with long crank time again. checked and made sure oil filter housing fills up, air pressure tested and don't hear air coming through filter housing or turbo oil feed line. dead head the pump and builds 4000 psi after 3-4 seconds then builds even quicker the second and third time. I figured due to the oil getting pushed out of the system is why it took longer the first time. removed pump cover and pressure tested at pump fitting and have loud leak at passenger side oil rail injector tops. checked the branch tube with stethoscope and borescope and found no problems. I removed oil rail and all four injectors and put them in a jig like the one brad came up with. I put air into at 80 psi and have air leaking from 3 of the injectors oil dump ports. including the 2 injectors I replaced last time. the only one that isn't leaking is the aftermarket injector that someone else has put in. should there be any air coming from those ports? I also think that this truck was at another shop before I got it and they were chasing the same issue. the high pressure pump has orange seals and I remember matt saying something about that being a replacement pump. Im really stuck here and the customer is getting fed up.

I took a pair a while back and never heard anything about it.

Shit, its just nuts and bolts anybody can be a mechanic.

The reason I ask, had 6.7 ambulance no start. Found cummins ecm voltage supply wire rubbed against bracket and popped fuse no big deal. Fix the problem and go pull the truck out and it kicks in to limp mode, code stored is for accel. pedal and brake pedal depressed at same time. Figure out cummins engine module internal fault with ground control of bpp switch so ground the circuit externally so vehicle can be driven to cummins for ecm replacement. I thought it would be easier than having to have the truck towed again. Another tech drove it there and specifically explained what we did to service writer. Well 2 weeks later a bill is sent to my service manager for 1145.00 for "circuit repair". Call cummins and they tell us they replaced ecm under warranty but they had to reverse the wiring modification we did. 1145 dollars to solder a wire back together and they didn't even call us with an estimate they just sent a bill. After he explains to me that they cant just reconnect circuit and gives a whole bunch of bullshit about the entire circuit must be replaced and cummins will not cover it my service manager tells him were not paying for it and something needs to be worked out. The cummns service manger says he can drop the bill to 390.00. My service manger still says no and wants to see exactly what the cummins tech did and now were waiting to see what he sends. The customer has been contacted and the truck is going to be brought in so I can look at what 1000 dollar wiring repair looks like. This is third or fourth time I have had to deal with cummins and every time has been fuckin miserable and oh yeah they don't want to pay you shit for the repairs.

Any of you guys do much cummins warranty and is it a complete pain in the ass to deal with them? Sorry, not sure if this is the right forum to post this topic.

p020ba

Replaced a short block a few months back for knocking due to cylinder distortion.

Yep, I said the same thing. Ever since the reprogram, I do def heaters constantly.

I agree. This engine always finds some new way to kick my ass

Well let it sit and it started up with a slightly longer crank. Shut it off and let it sit again and it cranks normally. I thing its the injector spool valves affecting icp it just depends on where they rest when the engine shuts off. I air pressure tested again and have no leaks, ipr is right on at 23% at idle and icp at .8 - .85. This thing had an oil cooler put on at an aftermarket shop so I'm wondering if the oil got really hot and damaged the injectors. Will see if customer wants to replace the rest of the injectors or take it.

I put the 3 injectors in and ran in with the valve cover off for awhile. It looks to me like number 2 is dumping a little more oil than the other three injectors on the bank. I let it sit overnight in the cold and went to start, still had a longer crank but nowhere near as long before replacing the injectors, figured due to air in the system. I wasn't able to drive last night to get air out. Drove this morning for 15-20 mins and let idle for an hour and shut off. Went out 15 min later and had an even shorter crank time. I think I'm chasing leaking injectors, I think theres no way in hell I have two leaking oil rails. Truck has 140k miles and inside of engine looks nice and clean. Disregard the 1200 psi while cranking, like I said earlier, I didn't notice at the time the there was an issue with the cam sensor connector causing a no start. I'm going to let it sit for awhile and see how does since I put some miles on it. This truck has all the updated stand pipes, dummy plugs and stc fitting done a few months back.

I ran truck with the valve cover off and can see more oil dumping on number 2 injector. Im thinking oil rails because the leaks seem to be moving every time I removed the rail. the damn things are almost 900 a piece

Im losing my mind. Drive it and get the thing hot and air test, let It sit for 20 minutes and finally hear a leak on passenger side towards front of oil rail. Put the stethoscope to it and hear the loud his at top of front 2 injectors thinking finally got it. Pull the injectors out and the top rings look ok which has me worried. put the 2 injectors in and air test, guess what still leaking. fire the thing up and let it get hot and retest, now I don't hear a leak. I leave the air hose on it awhile and its starts hissing again only its on the driver side. pull the valve cover and hear hissing real bad at the top of number 4. pull the oil rail and injector out and its an aftermarket reman the d-ring and blocker ring are moving around a little but the d ring does not look bad. throw one in and retest, still leaking only now its sound like its coming more from number 2. Ready to start beating my head against the wall. 8 injectors or oil rails?

icp voltage 0.85 idle ipr 23% idle icp snap accel. 2.1% ipr 48%

ok truck sat overnight and now will not start and did not have sync, found cam sensor and connector bad. wiggled cam sensor wire and get sync. truck has very long crank but will start. disconnected icp sensor and still have same issue, icp voltage .25 koeo. I didnt notice yesterday I had two different issues, the cam sensor connector caused the intermittent no start but did not set a code. I got that out of the way and back to the original issue. I air pressure tested again and don't hear a damn thing, not even the usual air noise from the hpop shaft seal. The ipr is new and if I don't hear any leaks im thinking the hpop is weak and dead heading it would be pointless by now.

have an 05 with intermittent crank no start and stall. has p2291, did the air pressure test with no leaks found. 3 months ago installed updated stand pipes and dummy plugs for same issue, never heard air leaks then but found some wear on pipe O-rings. also put a new ipr in and drove it 20-30 miles with no issues. checked restart hot and cold the next day, fired right up so I shipped it. now its back with same issue. It has a little bit of a long crank, ipr is going full duty cycle but it starts. I finally got it to not start while watching icp, icp is at 1200 psi and ipr at 85% so I air checked it again and don't hear any leaks. it has updated stc fitting. I disconnected ckp sensor and pulled ficm relay, commanded ipr above 60%, cranked it and only getting 1200 psi. I have not dead headed the pump yet. I have not seen late build pump fail but im leaning towards that as the culprit. Has anyone seen the late build pumps fail or am i missing something.

I know this is an old post but I had a customer with an excursion from out of state towed in with a dead ficm. Guy said he had it rebuilt by ficm repair and went on and on how great he was and how cheap it is. Anyway he didn't seem to happy about the news of his ficm and had to buy a ford unit due to being SOL. Thought you guys might get a good laugh.

Yeah I asked him if he did and he said no. When I talked to him again after the light went out, his story changed to "oh, I remember I did fill it while driving". Typical.

Well the guy let both tanks run down and check engine light went off. He filled the vehicle tank and took it home so I'd say the extra tank system causing the concern.

It does not have its own sending unit. When the fuel gauge gets low he hits the switch and fuel gravity flows to the main tank. I said that might be the issue and of course he responds with its never done that before. I told him to run the fuel tanks down and come back and I'll retest it then. Guy was from out of town and in a hurry so I don't know if truck will come back.

Stumped on an issue with tank sending unit. P0460 is the only code setting, run through the pinpoint test with no issue found. Vehicle does have aftermarket tank system that gravity fills the main tank which can cause this code to come on. Code will come back every time after self-test.