forddieseldoctor

Customer stopped in to pay the bill today. I got to talk to him for a couple of minutes. He said that its better with the new ball joints. He also told me that it seemed to show up after we did the tire work, which I'm almost positive he didn't mention that the other day. He said that he's gonna run it for a while. I told him that I wanted to swap the front tires and try it but that i ran out of time yesterday. So we'll see what happens when he decides that he doesn't wanna live with it.

I got a 97 F350 2wd dually at work with 160,000 miles on it. 7.3 with an auto. When you get to highway speeds it has torque steer. I can bounce it from line to line using just the throttle. I checked all of the suspension and steering over, the only thing I found other than original shocks and steering stabilizer was a small amount of play in the ball joints. Replaced all 4 ball joints today and took it for a ride, it still has torque steer. Threw it up on the alignment rack, took readings, I have -0.1 degree of rf camber, 0.2 degrees of lf camber. The caster was right dead nuts on the left side and 0.3 degrees more on the right side. Toe was set at exactly 0. I changed nothing. The rear tires are new within the last 3 months, the fronts are the best 2 that came off of the rear and still over 7/32. The only reason there was any tires put on it was because the fronts were shot and the customer decided to buy 4 for the back instead of 2 for the front. I also noticed today that it feels like it's got an overtightened steering gear cause it seems to want to fight in the center of the steering. The gear was replaced about 2 years ago with a Motorcraft one. I adjusted the meshload down a 1/8 turn and drove it and there was no change what so ever. I can spin both front wheels freely in the air. I've had someone moving the steering wheel while I watched the tie rods for play. Radius arm bushings look normal, I pryed on the control arms and can't see any movement in the bushings. Can junk shocks cause this? Has anyone else heard of this before on one of these trucks?

The gauge on the bar is a Dwyer series 2000 part number 2060. I found it for $70 shipped from an hvac tool site. Unfortunately the picture is a generic one that shows the wrong scale on the gauge. http://www.hvactool.com/products/dwyer-0-60-h2o-magnehelic-differential-pr-gauge-dwyer-2060

I'm not saying it's not. However most people around here wouldn't care if I told them they had a motor with slightly excessive blow-by. If it runs and gets them from point A to point B they are more than happy with it. I should make a manual one and do the crankcase pressure test on my old 7.3 but I don't know if I really wanna know how bad it is.

I'll bet.

Then they'd have a field day with my stash at work.

Yes it does. I even lifted the left side on the one truck that I did both sides on.

And then just draw the needle where I want it to be?

I don't know if I should say this, but I've never used one. The one at the shop I'm at now musta been washed off with brake clean once cause it's so foggy you can't read it. I've been buying all of my own manual gauges as I need them.

Welcome to my world. I love to throw a set of ear plugs in and ignore everyone else. Annoys the crap out of my co-workers. But I don't notice as much of their stupidity that way.

Seat ain't marred up, it's all black from the valve not sitting tight against it. Their "mechanic" called and had a talk with the service manager today. He's trying to pass the blame. But there's no way that you can throw a bolt down the front of the intake and have it skip over 7 intake holes and drop in the last one. I found the bolt in the next valve pocket forward. I'll try to get it back from the service manager and get a picture of it.

The one I did was an aftermarket hitch and I didn't have to cut the bumper cover and the aftermarket harness that the customer got was just plug and play into the connector on the right rear.

I found the bolt that the last guy to have the intake off dropped and couldn't find. Too bad it got wedged in a valve first. Luckily there's just a very light imprint of the valve on the piston.

I got an 05 with 0 psi on #8. Leaking through the intake valves. Didn't get the head off to look yet.

No. Windows 8 is the DEVIL!

Say woops.

I know the bottle neck feeling. Too much crap that gets to sit and wait for someone to get back to it. I just finished both side exhaust manifolds on a 2000 F-350 yesterday. 7 broken studs on each side. Friday they had me do a "quick" check engine light on a 2012 Escape with 16,000 miles. #6 misfire. 15% low on relative compression. 113 PSI of manual compression without taking the other plugs out. 75 % leakage with air leaking out from exhaust valves. Can push down on one of the exhaust valves with a prybar off of the cam lobe and wiggle the valve side to side about 1/4 inch. I could even see the wiggle with my bore scope in the cylinder. The head will be off of that one tomorrow.

What he said.

Hmm I learned something new today.

You can see the nastyness on the bottom of the oil rail in the video. I've never seen one that looked that bad.

Thats really gonna put a hurt on the drivethroughs if you can't get a hands free burger.

Yeah and just wait till the parts start showing up for the escape subframes.

I love the siliconed on cast deflector shield.

Oh and that tsb never showed up on oasis for the trucks that I've run for the noise just the ssm stating that it's normal after oil changes and will go away in a few hundered miles.

Actually the ones I've had didn't show up until the trucks were 3 or 4 oil changes into their lives. And they don't do it every time. I was just curious if someone managed to get any info out of Ford as to what was actually making the noise.