forddieseldoctor

Has anyone had the pleasure to try and return something to RTTP? I got a socket that doesn't do what it's supposed to. I tried calling them after work not realizing they were closed already and every time I pressed ext 4 they'd hang up on me.

I had one in my last laptop I used at work. It was awesome. Then the boss decided to be nice and buy new laptops for us. I haven't come up with the funds to put a ssd in my new laptop yet. My local computer "know it all" told me to stick with the Intel drives if it's for work.

I don't think I would call 2 to 3 seconds of crank time long. What does it do if you leave it outside overnight?

They made a note in the top of the article that says it's fake now.

Just because it can be don't mean that it should be.

We've got low ceilings too. I've got lots of holes punched in it above my hoist. Ladder racks, shovel handles, top corner of a dump box.

There's people who are yanking out the check valve banjo bolts and putting the 6.4 bolts on their 6.0's. I was not aware that they should be replaced when you have combustion gas in the fuel rails.

Those subframes ain't too bad to replace. I did one cause someone snapped off a control arm bolt and messed up the threads bad enough getting it out that it kept loosening up.

I got the idea from reading the other brand anti-gel bottles. I stood at the local Fleet Farm one night and read 3 or 4 different brands directions and they all say when it's below zero or -10 that you need to run double the amount. I was told by a Powerstroke engineer that running extra Ford additive will not hurt anything other than your pocketbook.

You gotta pull the extra rubber adapters off and stuff that thing in the neck really deep. If you look down the neck on the bottle there is a slot in the back edge where the thing bleed off pressure at. If you look at the cap it seals like the early escape ones do with an o-ring around it. Just had the guy by us get his butt kicked by that.

Seems like all of Ford's recent recalls are glue on a new bracket and call it good.

We all know we got enough of those laying around.

I've never heard of these before. Are they for where people are sticking quarters in to keep the harnesses connected?

Our first one's in the shop right now. Thankfully it's not on my hoist. I really have no ambition to do one. Didn't read through everything, but what I did looks like no fun.

I don't have a fuel heater in my 7.3. It was laying loose in the bottom when I changed my fuel filter once so I yanked it out. I'm in Wisconsin, but I am very religious about my anti-gel and when it gets down below zero I run double additive. I did not have any problems this year, but last year I did and that was when I decided to run extra additive. I also have a customer with a 6.7 who gelled up twice this year and the second time he was treated with the motorcraft stuff and after that when it was below zero he started running double too and he had no problems after that.

Did anyone else glance at this yet? I'm expecting it to be more fun with glue. [*]Certain 2001-2004 Model Year Escape Vehicles Operated in Corrosion States - Front Subframe Crossbrace Installation

I can't wait for the first call from an independent shop that just put a tie rod in.

You telling us that you can't go out and buy something better/different and use them? That is correct. I've tried and it did not work. I tried another D-link adapter, but a smaller one and I couldn't make it work. I even let my cousin who deals with networks for a living try it and he couldn't hack it.

Did the reset thing, it worked for about 3 uses. Then started doing all of the tests that hotline told me to do. Ended up being a bad d-link adapter on the vcm II.

Did anyone ever figure out what that tape was exactly? My parts guy wants to try and locate some more. We finally used up the stash we had.

I don't really care what people do to their trucks once they are out of warranty, but I did get burned by a programer on a 6.4 the other day. Guy towed it in cause the throttle pedal would become unresponsive and the truck would idle at 1300 rpms. He told me that it had a delete kit and a programmer. The guy owns a body shop that does some mechanical work. The truck had been to at least one maybe two other shops and all they did was throw an accelerator pedal and tell him that his ebp sensor had codes, "but wasn't an issue". I pulled codes, had a ebp code, and a vref B high code. Cleared them out and took it for a ride. Truck ran beautifully except that they ebp_A pid was reading right around 40 psi all the time. Went back to the shop, did the pinpoint test to verify a bad sensor, plugged it back in and the sensor was reading normal. Replaced the sensor and tube, and my shop drove the truck about 40 miles and the throttle never acted up and the codes never came back. Guy took the truck, paid the bill. Called about 3 days later, the throttle went dead once for him the other night. He drove the truck back in, I hopped in it with the IDS and grabbed the dpf pressure and temp pids. Found that with foot on the brake I was reading 0.4 volts and with foot off the brake I had 4.8 volts. Managed to find that they vref wire for the dpf sensor was broken and shorting to the right turn for the trailer tow back by the front fuel tank strap. Once I found the dpf reading so weird I pulled out the programmer. By the time I found the wires I had a code set for dpf pressure sensor intermittent. If I had pulled the program out right away the first time I would have had that code in a matter of minutes instead of wasting 2 hours investigating the throttle circuit and chasing wires.

We got 2 other VCM II's and they work wonderfully with the wireless. Except for ficm testing on a cold 6.0 or anything else with a super weak battery on cold start. I'm gonna have to look and see if I can find the reset button. Don't recall there being one.

Shop bought another VCMII this week so now everyone has their own. New one shows up, they hand it to me and say make it work. So I plug it in and let it update/activate. Didn't bother to try the wireless part of it, threw it in the IDS cabinet. The guy who is supposed to be using it grabs it and uses it wirelessly and he said that the first two times he tried it kept telling him to turn the key on, but on the third try it worked and he did what he had to do. The next time he used it he got the same crap, except this time he whined about it. I took a quick glance at it and told him to try it with the cable. It works perfectly with the cable and he does what he has to do. I tried it after he was done with it and I go the same message about turning the key on, tried a different wireless adapter, still same message, grabbed the VCMII that I always use and it works perfectly with the wireless. Service manager walks by and I hand the new VCM to him, explain what it's not doing, he goes and starts to deal with trying to get it warrantied. He comes back out about 10 minutes later and hands me a sheet with VCM self test directions on it. So after work I plug the bad vcm in and figured I'd quick run the self test and see what's going on. The one in the VCM manager outside of IDS ran and said no issues. I fired up IDS and told it to run the self test in the troubleshooting tab. It launched into some test with a blue bar scrolling across the screen, I got sick of waiting for it after 10 minutes and I had some parts to go pick up, So I left and came back almost an hour after I started the self test and it's still thinking hadn't changed one bit from where I left it, at this point I unplugged the VCM and turned off the laptop and went home. Anyone ever run that test for the VCM II's? I'm thinking that it froze and that it's not supposed to take that long to run. Any thoughts?

I've never had it bad enough that I was loosing sleep. But I wasn't sad to say good-bye to my last dealership. And no matter what if you work with other people they will do stuff that pisses you off. I've been at my current dealer for 5 years and there's days when I want to kick my co-workers in the teeth. But I've started wearing ear plugs whenever I pick up a air tool or mount tires and I've noticed that if I can't hear them I'm much happier.

The only issues I've had is a 6.0 short block that threw a rod about 3 years after I put it in.