forddieseldoctor

As much as I love the idea behind those I wonder if the welder trick would have worked on that one or if I'd have been drilling too.

I've never seen them crack there, but I have seen one or two that had the bellows swelled and were split there. And I checked the ebp sensor and the turbo for sticking on each of them and didn't find anything. I think they were 450/550 flat beds or utility boxes.

That's a Dorman connector. Part number: 904-222

We've had quite a few rear defrost issues on the newer F-150's with the power rear slider windows. They always seem to loose voltage between the right side of the grid and the center section. The last one I had is out of warranty and I don't think that the customer was real happy when they were informed they had to buy a window to fix it. Has anyone else noticed this trend? Has anyone figured out a way to fix this short of stuffing a new window in and hoping it lasts longer than 30,000 miles this time?

Hmm maybe I should check ours out and make sure that it's okay for LV transmissions.

For the last 2 years or so my dealership has been supplying us with a black barrel of universal trans fluid. Supposed to be good for just about everything that takes "red" trans fluid except for type F and a few of the other foreign cars. I got in a pissing match with the parts manager the first day that this barrel of mystery oil showed up and told him he was on crack and that we were gonna have transmissions dying left and right. His excuse was that one of his wholesale accounts has been using it for the last 5 years and hasn't had any problems. For the first few months I refused to use it until he wouldn't give me any quarts of LV one day. Since then it's been dumped into many transmissions including a bunch of warranty jobs. So far we haven't had any problems that can be linked to fluid, but it still bothers me when I pour it into customers transmissions wondering if this is gonna be the one that has the weird issues.

I got one right now that's waiting for our local FSE to show up. 2012 with 14,000 miles. Came in back in May, put the nox sensor in and did the reflash per the TSB, drove it till the XX miles to speed limited message cleared. 900 miles later it came back sometime around the 12th of July. Performed pinpoint test, dosing test passes with flying colors, egr test shows 2 g/s change and the egrt11 changes about 150* when the bypass valve is cycled. Got to the step where it says to replace the nox sensor, contacted hotline. They told me to put another nox sensor in it and do all the resets again. Guy needed the truck and we didn't have a sensor so I cleared everything out and managed to get the 50 mph speed limit to go away, guy took it camping and brought it in a week later for the sensor. Replaced the sensor, cleared the nox table, performed the manual regen and did the scr drive cycle. The nox monitor pid changed to yes and I released it to the customer. 3 days and just shy of 100 miles it comes in on the hook, idle only exhaust fault. Next step is replace the dpf assembly. Case got escalated. Hotline called me and verified all of my test results and gave me prior approval for a dpf. Monday I put that in, Reset everything that the pced and hotline told me to, managed to get it out of idle only, performed the scr drive cycle and the nox monitor pid changed to yes. Drove it about 10 extra miles, reran the self test, system pass. Service manager released it to the customer. Showed up to work this morning and there it sits in the parking lot with and idle only exhaust fluid fault. Reran the dosing test, verified that the def was not contaminated or diluted, or as good as I can without proper test equipment. We do all the maintenance on it and fill his def. To say the least I'm stumped on this truck.

I did that once when I did a radiator and a horizontal egr cooler. I learned the hard way that the inner fender bolts are longer than the ones that hold the fan shroud on.

You got mail.

I know, but if I have the lines and the procedure says to have the injector partially torqued when you do the first step on the line. So I figured if you could find the injector seals seperate you could save some ching. I'll go look and see if I do actually still have them.

I looked last night and couldn't come up with just the injector seals seperate from the line. That kinda suprises me. But the cheapest I could find was $20 plus the ride.

And there is a sequence of half torquing the injector and line. Installation NOTE: Lubricate the fuel injector and O-ring seal with clean engine oil. Install a new O-ring seal and a soft steel combustion gasket on the fuel injector. Make sure the bead on the soft steel combustion gasket is facing the cylinder head. [*] NOTICE: Failure to tighten the injector correctly can lead to engine failure. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not use air tools to install the fuel injectors. The fuel injector hold-down clamp bolt retainer that extracts the injector can dislodge and fall into the oil drain hole. NOTICE: If the fuel injector hold-down clamp assembly bolt retainer is damaged or missing, a new fuel injector hold-down clamp assembly must be installed, or the clamp assembly will not be able to remove the fuel injector. Install the fuel injector, the fuel injector hold-down clamp assembly and the bolt. [*]Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in). [*] NOTE: Use a back-up wrench on the fuel injector fittings. NOTE: Use a crowfoot wrench to aid in tightening the fuel injector supply tube. Install the new fuel injector supply tube in the following sequence. Remove the Fuel System Caps from the high-pressure fuel rail and the fuel injector one at a time prior to assembly of each tube. [*]Position the new fuel injector supply tube between the high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injectors and fully hand-start and seat the tube fittings onto the mating high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injector high-pressure connectors. Snug the fuel injector supply tube fittings using the inside-out step sequence (the 2 inside tubes then the 2 outside tubes). [*]Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. [*]Using a torque adapter, tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in). [*]Tighten the fuel injector hold-down clamp bolt. [*]Tighten to 38 Nm (28 lb-ft). [*] NOTE: Pre-tighten the fuel injector fitting first, then the fuel rail fitting. Pre-tighten the fuel injector supply tube fittings. [*]Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. [*]Using a torque adapter, tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in). [*] NOTE: Place a visible mark with a permanent marker on the high-pressure fuel rail and fuel injector threaded connection. Turning the tube fittings one flat of the nut is equal to 60 degrees. Final tighten the fuel injector supply tube fittings. [*]Tighten the fittings 60 degrees.

Fuel Injector Supply Tube Copyright © 2014 Ford Motor Company

It's been a long time since I was into the fuel system on a 6.4 so I don't remember what it all looks like, but I'm almost positive I have a set of 8 injector lines sitting in a box in my basement.

Wow. I had a former service manager who would warranty out the clusters in her vehicles if she went over on her lease. I thought that was pretty special. Then she got fired for some other crooked stuff they caught her pulling.

We got something special. We are paid hourly and then we get what they call incentive. Pretty much flat rate time for everything you produce extra, and it's totalled daily instead of weekly. We only get overtime on the hourly part though. I've been there 5 years and have never had less than 10 hours of incentive on a paycheck.

I can't say that I have issues with ids freezing with pts open, but I got the same window taking forever to close issue on my 7 machine that you got on your 8 machine. I was thinking about contacting Ford about it, but I think it would be a waste of my time.

Wow now that is really special. And I thought it was bad Friday night working on a 6.4 on the side. Guy had his buddy's truck and we were replacing the passenger side up-pipe, the middle cage nut spun on a crew cab and the guy told me to just leave it and that his buddy would take care of it. Then he got mad at me when I didn't listen to him.

Are those welded back together?

Don't remember right off, I should be able to get it tomorrow from the printout.

Customer stopped in to pay the bill today. I got to talk to him for a couple of minutes. He said that its better with the new ball joints. He also told me that it seemed to show up after we did the tire work, which I'm almost positive he didn't mention that the other day. He said that he's gonna run it for a while. I told him that I wanted to swap the front tires and try it but that i ran out of time yesterday. So we'll see what happens when he decides that he doesn't wanna live with it.

I got a 97 F350 2wd dually at work with 160,000 miles on it. 7.3 with an auto. When you get to highway speeds it has torque steer. I can bounce it from line to line using just the throttle. I checked all of the suspension and steering over, the only thing I found other than original shocks and steering stabilizer was a small amount of play in the ball joints. Replaced all 4 ball joints today and took it for a ride, it still has torque steer. Threw it up on the alignment rack, took readings, I have -0.1 degree of rf camber, 0.2 degrees of lf camber. The caster was right dead nuts on the left side and 0.3 degrees more on the right side. Toe was set at exactly 0. I changed nothing. The rear tires are new within the last 3 months, the fronts are the best 2 that came off of the rear and still over 7/32. The only reason there was any tires put on it was because the fronts were shot and the customer decided to buy 4 for the back instead of 2 for the front. I also noticed today that it feels like it's got an overtightened steering gear cause it seems to want to fight in the center of the steering. The gear was replaced about 2 years ago with a Motorcraft one. I adjusted the meshload down a 1/8 turn and drove it and there was no change what so ever. I can spin both front wheels freely in the air. I've had someone moving the steering wheel while I watched the tie rods for play. Radius arm bushings look normal, I pryed on the control arms and can't see any movement in the bushings. Can junk shocks cause this? Has anyone else heard of this before on one of these trucks?

The gauge on the bar is a Dwyer series 2000 part number 2060. I found it for $70 shipped from an hvac tool site. Unfortunately the picture is a generic one that shows the wrong scale on the gauge. http://www.hvactool.com/products/dwyer-0-60-h2o-magnehelic-differential-pr-gauge-dwyer-2060

I'm not saying it's not. However most people around here wouldn't care if I told them they had a motor with slightly excessive blow-by. If it runs and gets them from point A to point B they are more than happy with it. I should make a manual one and do the crankcase pressure test on my old 7.3 but I don't know if I really wanna know how bad it is.

I'll bet.