forddieseldoctor

I think it's supposed to help kill the odors coming out of the crankcase vent on the dodges. The last I looked they still run a draft tube that dumps into the atmosphere.

Hmm I used the shops VCM 1 the other day before the update. I'll try it on Monday and see if it works.

Mine turns from black to silver with use. The tasklight holds up much better than the stylus lights.

I got a streamlight tasklight at work. Runs on 3 AA batteries. I love the lifetime warranty. I send it in and they send me a new one no questions asked.

I just dab a little diesel fuel behind each ear and my wife goes nuts.

I googled it and here's what I came up with. Does it stink to change your oil? With some brands, there can be an unpleasant scent immediately following an oil change. The most noticeable time this condition occurs is with the engine at idle speed and only during the first 500 - 1,500 miles after the oil change. Diesel Fresh helps neutralize this condition. Diesel Fresh is used in the initial factory oil fill of the Cummins engine. It is formulated with premium quality 15w40 CI-4 diesel oil and a proprietary lemon odorant. Compatible with all CI-4 and CI+4 diesel lubricants. The four-ounce Diesel Fresh bottle treats up to 12 quarts of diesel engine oil. The product has a lemon scent. Borrowed from 3rd strike performance's site.

Icky. I got a 14 F-350 that keeps going into derate cause the oil temp sensor circuit keeps shorting out. Then I got told that we got an E-series gas under warranty that the trans locks up in reverse. And the other trans guy who started looking at it left for maternity leave today.

I had an e-series ambulance that they did that with about 6 years ago. The tow company who did the damage has become anal about pulling dtiveshafts now. They pulled a driveshft to tow it 2 blocks.

I got one of those phone calls yesterday too. Only mine was on a 6.7.

Replacing a rotted through right hand exhaust manifold on an 01 expedition with 7 broken studs that were a complete pita. Also got a set of head gaskets on an 03 excursion.

I get to put air bag helper bags in the rear of a 15 F-350.

I use that with a swivel head ratchet.

11 E-series shuttle bus with 144k replacing valve seals and up-sold manifold studs on one side.

Yeah. It works well too. Otherwise we would start to have connectivity problems and have to unplug it every couple of days.

Sad to say. I tried in chassis. I'm giving up and tugging the motor. And for the record that valve spring compressor sucks.

I fixed our wireless router issue at work. I simply picked up a 24 hour timer from the clearence rack at the local Home Depot. Now it shuts off for a half hour forcing it to reboot every night.

You guys tie your super cab's down when you lift them? The only ones I ever think of tying is the regular cabs. And that's just a 1" strap on each side that goes from a hole in the underside under the hoist arm and then up to the seat frame on each side.

I was informed at the end of the day that I get to put a set of valve seals in a 2011 E-350 shuttle bus that's using a quart of oil every 200 miles. The TSB says to remove the engine to replace all the valve seals. One of my co-workers did one of these when he had the motor already out on a stand an I remember him crying about there was no way he was ever gonna do one in chassis. My question is has anyone attempted this on a 5.4 in chassis? I was thinking if I yank the mount and roll it to the side like a 6.0 that I could probably do them without pulling it out. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Got an 09 F250 sitting in the shop at home. Swapped a front axle assembly. Went to replace the leaking power steering pump and found the pump was only held on with one bolt.

I knew they existed for years. A former co-worker had one from his gm days. I bought one from Snappy a few months back.

Gee and I only had to blow up a quart bottle of trans fluid to get a proper trans filling tool.

I got a gelled up 6.4 that's thawing overnight. And a dp6s that got a clutch cleaning today.

I don't think it's changable in the field. I think the only one who can legitly change it is the odometer rebuilders.

I got an 04 Durango with a junk motor. Guy drove it in. Said he thought it was hydrolocking based on what he read on the internet. Went outside and it's locked up. Pushed it in, pulled the belt and the plugs, still won't turn over. Noticed the #7 plug is wet and the gap is slightly smaller then the rest. Stuck the bore scope down the hole and I was looking at the crankshaft.

I got a check for the full $343 today. It took all month but I used them 3 times this month. Sometimes that's what it takes to get shop equipment.