forddieseldoctor

We sell a royalshield warranty with just about every used vehicle. My parents made out good with their 06 mountineer they bought 2 years ago. Solenoid body, radiator and outer tie rod. All covered.

I contacted hotline. They want me to check crank end play and then start looking at cam journals. And they want me to put the vct solenoids in no matter what. The only other one I checked that was good was around 25 psi.

I got an 08 F150 with 74,000 miles on it that the guy came in complaining of a driveline shudder. Went for a ride with him and he procedded to tell me that he think's his torque convertor is coming apart. What he proceded to show me was an intermittent rattle and misfire at hot idle. Being customer pay the first thing I did was throw an oil pressure gauge on it and take it for a ride to duplicate it with the IDS. Hot oil pressure in park is at 14 psi according to my gauge. When I put it in gear the oil pressure drops to 10 psi. If I brake torque it up to about 1200 and snap off the throttle it will start rattling and running rough. I know there is TSB 14-0114 for this concern, but I'm worried that it won't fix my issue especially since the vct duty cycle settles in at zero long before the cam oscillation stops and it looks like it's on both banks.

I've done a few of them. It's been a few years since the last one. But I do remember that everyone of them had a bunch of pitting on the inside of the input shaft where the bearing rides. But all in all it wasn't a huge deal to fix them.

I use the one that Matt posted. But you have one way that it has to be to get the ring off. One of my co-workers struggled for better than a half hour with one on a 12 f250 the other day. Too stubborn to ask for help.

Hah. I have no use for a truck. Beside that I am broke. You know, 1 income, wife, kids, cats, mortgage, food...That's cool that she can stay home. I know lots of people who can't pull that off.

Saw this on PTS: May 13 2015 6462-2011-2015 F-Super Duty Equipped With Electronic Shift 4WD- New Hub Seal Kit Available Some 2011-2015 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with electronic shift 4WD may require axle seal (3254) replacement due to vacuum leaks. The axle seal part numberhas been updated to simplify part ordering. Follow normal diagnostic proceduresin the Workshop Manual (WSM). Refer to WSM, Section 308-07. If axle seal or seals require service, order (1) axle seal kit 5C3Z-3254-B per side, as needed. Seal, hub gasket, hub o-rings and hub screws are now all packaged with the axle seal. For Dual Rear Wheel (DRW) vehicles, (1) package of wheel extension nuts W520506-S309 is also required. Use applicable labor times found in SLTS Section 3 foraxle seal removal and installation and Section 7 for 4WD diagnosis.

Gonna snap it up?

I had one this last week that had a very flat side on the lower o-ring and a very black slime between the o-ring and the copper washer.

07 f550 with about 100k on it. The wire convlute ate the abs harness between the frame and the rear axle.

Sorry bud, can't help you. Only played with it once or twice when it first came out.

Generic vcm? Or the obdII compliant scanner for everything else?

Ha ha. Except you gotta start out with "To the best of my knowledge" first.

Thank you. That sucks that you can get fined for even working on one that's been deleted. But the big question I got is can the tech working on said vehicle get fined? And how much?

Care to share where you found it? I suck at finding stuff like this.

Exactly why I don't give options like that.

So what happens if he gets a tank of "wet" fuel?

Had one this week that didn't quite light up. The bolt that holds the bracket to the pipe was missing. 65,000 miles, no history of any engine work. Didn't hurt the hood any.

I think you can pull the dipstick and see if it's got a bunch of foam on it.

I finished up installing subframe connectors on a 98 mustang, rolled a 6.7 in for a check engine light. P0299. Opened the hood and found a broken egr inlet flex joint and a melted intake tube. And of course the low fuel message is on with only 5 miles to E displayed. And I got an 11 e350 with a junk trans and it needs valve seals. Both warranty of course.

Manual compression for sure. As Matt said a loose crank ring can do wierd stuff. If it was in my hands I would do the diesel cam timing test to see if everything is right. I had one that would buck if and when it wanted to. Cam timing test showed crank a half tooth off of crank.

Didn't they do that back in the early 2000's? I seem to remember the first couple of clutch packs I ever put in being pre-shimmed.

I had one on my 95 contour that split in half and dropped off the shaft. I was doing some "spirited" driving right before it overheated. I think high engine rpm may have finished it.

I got to practice a second time on one. At home none the less.

Spec is 15.