forddieseldoctor

I got an 06 or 07 f550 that has a whopping 5 psi of icp while cranking. Has base oil flow and the pressure gauge on the dash moves. Put air to it quick and commanded the valve shut. Can hear a massive air leak.

I've done a couple of branch tubes in chassis on F550's. The STC fitting blew apart and came out the back cover. Did them both in chassis on the floor. I did buy a good bore scope to see the bolts in there. The first one I had a helper like the book says. It went so bad that I figured out how to do it by myself on the second one. The second one was customer pay too.

That's not a bad Idea. I have a set of 4 sitting on the shelf in the basement for a truck I no longer own. I think I'm gonna have to do that. Oh and I got mine off of Ebay many moons ago.

I've done all three that you've listed. E-Series, as Keith already mentioned is actually easier than an F-Series save for the cab to frame fasteners that require use of the flame wrench to persuade loose. Excursion to me, is no different than a Super Duty, save for some extra cab fasteners and a fuel filler neck to contend with, no biggie. An F-150 is about the easiest cab lift ever of all of them. Never done an E-series. But I agree 100% on the F-150's being the easiest by far. I've had a couple up, one for a head removal to extract a spark plug that got pushed down into the cylinder with the Lisle tool. And one for a customer pay motor swap.

Yeah it is. I've done 4 sets in the last 6 or 8 months. 2 of them were customer pay. We have seen it on a year or two older ones than what the tsb shows.

Nice. I got good at ripping the motors out to do valve seals. I've done head gaskets on one side in chassis, but I think if I had to do both sides it would come out.

Had a 2014 f150 yesterday with a 5.0 and 18,000 miles on the factory filter. It didn't come in for an oil change, but it got one before it left. The oil filter rattled when I threw it out this morning. And it had a bunch of body work done on it and they didn't bother to reattach anything back to the left inner fender and the exhaust manifold ate the harness with the abs sensor wires in it.

You know about the proper way to wire batteries in parallel? The positive comes off of one to the starter or solenoid and the ground comes off the other one. Not the way that Ford does it with each battery having it's own ground.

Not likely. One of my customers at home. I replaced a right rear caliper about 2 weeks ago. Drained a bunch of brake fluid out and filled it out of a brand new bottle I bought with the caliper.

I got a 2000 F350 with a 7.3 that the guy called me today claiming that all 4 brakes are hot. About a week and a half ago he called me saying that he had a right rear brake hanging up. I found a stuck caliper and replaced the rear pads. A week later he called me and said that the left rear brake is stuck bad enough that he can't get out of 4th gear (manual trans) Went over there and found a stuck piston on the left rear caliper. Replaced the caliper on Saturday morning and took it for a ride. Everything was normal. I don't know how much he drove it since then, but he called me today after driving about 7 miles from his house to mine saying that he had all 4 brakes hot. I did drain most of the brake fluid out of the truck when I changed the first caliper. He did say that the brake pedal seemed stiffer than normal. Anyone run across this? I haven't talked to him since he got back home to find out if they seemed to be dragging on the way home.

That would make sense. Had an indy shop call me a while back. Had an edge that the guy's kid managed to turn on Mykey on a trip.

You just balance it on one arm on each side?

I thought the owners manual said that you needed to have one admin key at all times.

How did they get both keys turned into mykeys?

As far as I know they get plugged in all the time. The block heaters do get tapped into the shoreline. I had one that they were complaining about lack of power cold on a 7.3. Found out they had unplugged the block heater from it.

I have seen the bcm relearn. The 2 diesels I had didn't have that option. I also know there is that ssm about the bcm relearn. I don't remember what the code was, but the only way to clear it was to program as-built into the pcm and bcm.

If you change the tire size you will get a check engine light. I've been told to try on a handful of trucks and everyone of them fails. Even if you change the gear ratio to match what would have come with the bigger tires.

I had a 14 Fusion that we just sold that had MyKey turned on with the only key we had. We have another key on order, but the guy wanted the MyKey turned off today. I could not find anyway to turn it off without a second key. Nor could I find much literature on it in the shop manual. Anyone happen to know where it is in the shop manual, or if there even is any? Has anyone ever found a way to reset a key to a master key with only having one key?

New vehicles in general are priced out of sight for anyone at my shop.

Long block time. Customer came in and ordered it today. Had another one today with a P0340. Told them it needs solenoids per the TSB. This one has 20 psi hot.

Royal shield is a Ford esp. 12 month 12,000 mile only availble with used cars if I understand it right. I just did a set of clutch packs on an 05 F-150 that had a royal shield on it.

Checked crank end play. Was at 0.011". We gave the guy a price on pulling cam caps and replacing phasers, tensioners, and solenoids. We also priced a long block.

We sell a royalshield warranty with just about every used vehicle. My parents made out good with their 06 mountineer they bought 2 years ago. Solenoid body, radiator and outer tie rod. All covered.

I contacted hotline. They want me to check crank end play and then start looking at cam journals. And they want me to put the vct solenoids in no matter what. The only other one I checked that was good was around 25 psi.

I got an 08 F150 with 74,000 miles on it that the guy came in complaining of a driveline shudder. Went for a ride with him and he procedded to tell me that he think's his torque convertor is coming apart. What he proceded to show me was an intermittent rattle and misfire at hot idle. Being customer pay the first thing I did was throw an oil pressure gauge on it and take it for a ride to duplicate it with the IDS. Hot oil pressure in park is at 14 psi according to my gauge. When I put it in gear the oil pressure drops to 10 psi. If I brake torque it up to about 1200 and snap off the throttle it will start rattling and running rough. I know there is TSB 14-0114 for this concern, but I'm worried that it won't fix my issue especially since the vct duty cycle settles in at zero long before the cam oscillation stops and it looks like it's on both banks.