Mekanik

I removed the exhaust valve springs with the intention of swapping #2 valves with #4 valves to see if it's the guides or the valves and I can't even remove the #2 exhaust valves. I had to tap them with a hammer just to get them to move. I don't see any point in removing them from the head at this point because this is definately my smoking gun. That's interesting. I did just replace the rocker and clip. It would probably have been easier to replace the entire rocker, but I was afraid to didsurb the headgasket by removing a head bolt. I saw this in a 7.3L where someone managed to replace lifters without removing the heads and then as a bonus left behind parts of the old push rod and lifter.

Good luck! I used to commute an hour each way, then I got a job three minutes from home. I found that the time to decompress was really nice before I got home and it was an adjustment at the new job walking out of my work and into my house in a matter of minutes. I ended up getting more sleep in the morning

I checked it again today with a long 1/4" extension and it moves up and down with the engine cranking.

I'm working on a 2005 F250 with a 6.0L. Two weeks ago it had a broken rocker arm for cylinder #2 exhaust valve, along with a bent pushrod. I checked my lifter travel with a long 1/4" extensionI, and then I replaced the bent pushrod and the rocker arm without any problems. I cranked the engine several revolutions to make sure my valvetrain was working properly and I didn't have any problems. After I got it put back together it ran great on the road test. One week later the truck is back with similar symptoms. I removed the left valve cover and oil rail and the #2 exhaust pushrod is bent again. The rocker arm is still attached to the fulcrum so I really don't understand how the push rod would just bend. Has anyone also run into the same problem on a 6.0L? For the record I did replace headgaskets about 3000 miles ago. The truck is heavily modified with a programmer, EGR delete, and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Not that it matters but the current owner bought it that way and claims to drive it very gently. When I did the headgaskets I lowered the fuel pressure to factory specs.

Something my kid would do.

I don't like the fact that you posted a picture of my own car on here!!!

Let's try this again.

I saw this this morning.

Yeah, too bad it's out of warranty or Ford would have to pay for it.

I replaced the freeze plugs, leaking water pump, broken thermostat housing, and coolant bottle. The cooling system won't hold vacuum, so I start filling it up with coolant. 2 gallons...another 2 gallons...another 2 gallons and no drips. Now I pressure test it, but it won't build pressure, but my oil level is rising really fast. I was afraid this was going to happen.

Kind of like calling an engine a motor? When I was at Wyoming Tech, if you were talking about a motor, it better have electrical windings.

Screw it, I'll just deal with it again in another four years.

Has anyone else had to replace freeze plugs in a 6.0L yet? I've got a truck here where the customer filled the cooling system with water and had 8 of the little cylinder head plugs(behind the exhaust manifolds) and 2 larger plugs on the engine block just fall out. For the record this happened before the arctic vortex. I thought that this was just an automotive urban legend, that the plugs would fall out if the cooling system froze and I shouldn't even be calling them 'freeze plugs'.

How do you guys clean the intakes out? Me, I just pick the stuff apart with a pocket screwdriver; maybe use the solvent tank, but all the other guys here use a propane torch and a blow gun to burn everything out.

That'll work too. the MIL came on this morning, so I got it tested just in time. I really should take care of it, but my vehicles are the last to get fixed. As long as they start, won't cause my wife to get stranded, and they're safe, that's all I care about.

Apparently Illinois is the same way. I called and asked, they told me I can have up to two monitors that aren't complete. Then I called my wife to take the vehicle to the testing station and it passed. Brad, I think your trick would work for sure because the IATA is a stand alone sensor that's really accessible.

You've really had to do this? The IAT and the ECT also have to be within a certian range when the vehicle is started so it sees that it's a cold start, so would I also have to jump the ECT?

Hey guys, I've got a problem. I need to get my 1998 Buick Regal through emissions before the end of the month (in 4 days) so I can renew the registration. I know I'm waiting to the last minute; I never got the notice that my emissions test was due and I've been working on this for over a week. I had a lean code and an evap code for slow leak. I cleaned the MAF sensor, got my fuel trims back to normal so I think the lean code is fixed. I didn't find anything wrong with the evap system so I replaced the O-ring in the fuel cap. I'm really aggravated because I've been driving this thing to Ford school for the last three days and I really thought that would be more than enough to get all the drive cycles to complete (41 miles each way). I don't have any DTC's and yesterday I realized I had a bad thermostat. I went into work, replaced the thermostat and I thought that for sure today would be the day all my monitors would be complete. My evap monitor is the only one that hasn't completed, so I did a little research when I got home. I see some chatter online that the IAT needs to be at least 14F. I can't find that spec in All Data, but if it's true that would explain why I haven't been able to complete my evap monitor. Also, it would mean that I'm screwed because it's freezing cold until further notice where I live in Illinois. When I worked an hour from work I would drive vehicles like this home. Then in the morning I would be about 45 minutes into my commute and all the monitors would be complete in the customer's vehicle that I was driving. Does anyone have any ideas?

I finally got around to downloading Paralells and it does work. The thing is I still need a desksop or in my case laptop to use it. I'm basically using my iPad as a remote control for my laptop while viewing my laptop screen with my iPad. It's really cool technology but I need a really good internet connection for it to work efficently. My internet is great at home, but kind of sucks at work. It might work nice if I want to take a wiring diagram away from my toolbox without having to print it. I was hoping to replace my laptop with my iPad, but that's just not realistic. Thanks for the help!

This is all very interesting. I'll have to do some more research.

So FMC Dealer won't work with a Mac either? That's crappy. I was shopping last night and came across a Samsung tablet; gave it a shot and it couldn't open up PTS either. I thought that thing had IE.

Thanks for the tips. I downloaded Atomic Web Lite because I don't have any credit in my iTunes account and it didn't work. I would certainly not have a problem paying $1.99 for the full version if it would let me use FMC Dealer. Hopefully eventually it'll work with iOS devices.

I've got a new iPad2 and. I was a little disappointed when I realized it doesn't work with FMC Dealer, but is there any way of accessing oasis, workshop manuals, wiring diagrams with an iPad2? Maybe something I can download or a different site? Thanks

Nice write up Brad Clayton! I've got one of these coming back in tomorrow morning that I did the recall in. It's an Explorer and the customer says that after I did the recall he filled up his tank and the gauge only reads half a tank or maybe less. I was really careful with the float, but apparently not careful enough. When I replaced the fuel pump it had about 1/2 tank and I was surprised to still have fuel overflowing out of the fuel pimp hole. But I guess since it's 1/2 tank the right side is going to be 100% filled and the left side will be 100% empty. I guess that's why the feel tanks lean to one side. Oh well...

I bought a 3/8 and a 1/4 inch cordless Dewalt impacts recently and I can't say enough good things about them. I use both of them all the time and don't use my air ratchets as much because the Dewalt impacts are really strong and small enough to fit in small places. I love the fact that they're cordless too.