Mekanik

What do you guys think about the Streamlight flashlights? Are they worth the money, or is there a better alternative? I'm talking about the one that's rechargable and costs about $175.00. I'm in the market for a new flashlight and I'm the kind of thech that always has his flashlight inn his pocket and uses it like an extention of his hand.

I tried for a few minutes and then ended up just replacing the D-rings without removing the snap rings. I was able to sneak it in there. Coincidentally I was on the phone this morning with the guy who rebuilds injectors and asked him. He said that he's never actually removed one of those snap rings.

What's the trick Bruce?

That's my project for today. I had one of those O-rings fail on an aftermarket injector and I'm being sent O-rings for all of the injectors and a tool to remove the snap ring.

What about the O-ring inside the top of the injector behind the snap ring? Has anyone here ever replaced those?

I was thinking about that, but I really want it to be a confirmed kill. I don't even want to think of the possibility of it being a PCM.

I’m working on a 2006 F250 with an intermittent wrench light and a dead pedal. Initially I had a slew of DTC’s. P0069 for the baro sensor, P0404 EGR range fault, P0472 EP low input, along with a bunch of other AP DTC’s. I was able to determine that I didn’t have enough vref voltage-1.7v to be exact. I checked it at the baro sensor which I unplugged and then I unplugged the EP sensor and checked it too. It was 1.7v, but shortly after I checked it there it came back to 5v. I wiggle tested the wiring, inspected for chaffed wiring with no avail. The circuit that provides vref for the baro also supplies vref to the AP sensor, so that explains the dead pedal. The customer ended up taking the truck and had the same problem. Now I’ve only got a P0472, two AP DTC’s-P2138, P2139, and a P2285. Of course I wasn’t able to get the problem to act up. I’m thinking a couple different things here. First, what if my EP sensor was shorted? I could see that causing the PCM to shut off vref. But then I did have 1.7v and every time I’ve seen a scenario like that my vref was 0v. Also I did unplug the EP sensor and measure 1.7v vref at the connector, but can I really expect my vref to come back to 5.0v instantly? I’m not sure. Then I was thinking maybe I have a chaffed harness, possibly the circuit providing this vref. Has anyone run into something like this?

That chart is genius, and exactly my scenario. I've got a pushrod that's splintered at the top, with the ball laying by the injector and the valve bridge for the #3 exhaust valve. How are you guys checking the valves for sticking? Are you guys just replacing the rocker, bridge, and pushrod? What about the lifter?

That's good to know!

The solinoid on the left side of the engine, right under the throtle body? That's what I ordered.

I did a little more research. It's the wastegate control solinoid making the noise. Thanks though!

What is the buzzing noise that occurs about 30 seconds after shutting the engine off? I was thinking maybe a coolant pump, but theese things don't have coolant pumps.

Yeah? Tell me more.

Thanks a lot, I bet the torque spec is a lot less too. This engine is heavily modified and the headgaskets are leakin REALLY bad. I'm pretty surprised how bad they're leaking knowing that this thing already has studs.

Can the cylinder headgaskets be replaced in-vehicle if it is equipped with studs? It looks like I could nemove the nuts and then the studs (with the exception of the one in the left rear)with the heads installed and it shouldn't be much different than replacing the headgaskets when equipped with bolts, right? I thought I would ask because I've never installed studs or had one apart that was equipped with studs. Also do the studs and nuts need to be replaced with the headgaskets?

Nice shop!!!

We've got one like this in the shop right now. Hey you guys didn't really want them to last forever did you???

I checked the fuse and wiring; it tested okay. I got the O2 sensor to stay at .8v, and when that happened the cat monitor was staying around .2v. So it seemed as if the O2 sensor was shorting out with a voltage stuck high and that caused the PCM to lean out the engine causing the low voltage from the cat monitor. I replaced the O2 sensor and it seems okay. I know that work is work and I NEVER turn down a job, but I really hate working on non-Ford vehicles.

Hey guys, I’m working on a 2003 Olds Alero with a MIL on. I've got a P0132, P0137, and a P0141. P0132 O211 high voltage P0137 O212 low voltage P0141 O1HTR 12 circuit malf My O2 pid and cat monitor pid seem fine right now. I did get some more info that the MIL is only on when the fuel level is less than 1/2 tank of fuel (It's almost full right now). I've got two questions here, first off has anyone encountered this on an Alero? I'm a Ford tech and not very familiar with GM products. My second question is if this problem could be due to leaking intake gaskets when cold and first started? At first I was thinking I have a bad O2 sensor AND a bad cat monitor (O2 12), but I really don't want to just hang parts on this thing.

That's actually what was wrong with this truck. Initially I checked it and I had 12psi cooling system pressure on accel. It was kind of borderline, but this was in December when it first came in. My service writer really didn't want to 'go there' because we just sold the truck. I felt like the headgaskets were leaking a little bit, but it probably wasn't going to fix the truck. What I found strange is that ALL the headgasket jobs I've done on 6.0ls, I've never come across this complaint. But maybe nobody has ever noticed it, because when the truck is being driven it produces heat. Another thing I found strange is that the degas bottle really wasn't venting. But I it wasn't venting externally, the gas has to go somewhere!!! That's when it dawned on me. I overlooked the obvious. When I checked the colling system pressure last week it was 16 psi; much worse than when I first came in. There wasn't much left of the sealing surface of the headgaskets. I really felt humbled by this truck. There was something obviously wrong it, but I was convinced there was something else. This truck was a real lesson for me to not let my manager's feelings about what he wants me to do or not do affect my diagnostic process, and not overlook the obvious.

No it doesn't. I'm flushing out the cooling system as we speak.

No cavitation on the front cover. Does anyone have any ideas on this one?

The guy FINALLY brought the truck back in. I removed the hose going to the heater core and fired up the engine and found NO flow out of the hose at idle, but as soon as the engine is above idle it sprays out coolant like a fire hose. I need to take a look at the cold start drivability and then I'll remove the water pump to inspect the front cover. Thanks guys!

I agree, I was really disapointed to see someone else working on it when I came back to work. coolant flow through the heater core is something I would like to see for myself. How does the cavitation cause lack of flow?

Okay, I see. Can you tell me where in the front cover the cavitation occurs and how it will effect the flow to the heater core?