Mekanik

Front covr cavitation damage? So coolant is bypassing and not expelling 100% of the coolant to the heater core? How do I find this? Could it have been seen with the water pump off?

I’m working on a 2003 F-Series with a 6.0L. The customer’s concern is lack of heat at idle (vent temp 90F). All you have to do is accelerate and the heat comes back (140f). My ECT and EOT pids are around 185f when it’s idling and not producing heat. The ECT and EOT really don’t change after the vehicle is accelerated. This vehicle originally came in when the HP oil pump plug fell out. During my testing of that I noticed a huge EOT/ECT split and I replaced the oil cooler. There was a lot of debris in the oil cooler. After that repair I replaced the thermostat, de-gas bottle cap and then another tech flushed the heater and replaced the water pump when I was on vacation. He said that he had good flow through the heater core and nothing came out of it. I know that the hose going to the core from the front cover wasn’t VERY hot, and the hose coming out of the heater core was luke warm at best. The customer was complaining about this before I did the HP oil pump and the oil cooler, and I vacuum tested the cooling system twice and it held perfect vacuum. The coolant level is full. I see a little bit of coolant stains on the coolant bottle, but it’s not like it’s low on coolant. Any help?

I really didn't want to do it, but I ended up slicing them with a hacksaw. Yes, it has a lift kit cbriggs. The worst part was when I installed the new bushings and tightened up the stabilizer links and saw the new bushing pop right out. That's when I understood WHY the bushings came out in the first place. The vehicle has a lift kit and needed longer stabilizer links. Thanks for the help!

Hey guys, I’m having a problem with a front stabilizer bushing on a 4X4 2006 F350 (1FTWW31P76EB39298). The replacement bushings (5C3Z-5484-CA) do not have the slit on the side for installation. I would really rather not make a slit to install it because I’m not a butcher, and also because the reason I’m replacing the bushing is because the old one just fell out. I tried disconnecting the stabilizer bar and sliding it over the end, but the bar end is much larger than the stabilizer bushing hole. We called a few dealers that show the bushing on their shelf and they have the same bushing without a slit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It's not as rusty as a lot of other vehicles I've seen. I do live in rust country though. The ground strap is intact, and my voltage drop of was minimal. It did act up twice today, but not nearly as bad as before. I did SOMETHING to the problem. I did notice a wiring harness rubbing on the dipstick tube, but I didn't think it was a problem because when I moved it away the ABS light was still flickering. That doesn't mean that I don't have wires shorted together in there. I'll take a closer look on Monday. Thanks for your help!

Do you mean by the ABS HCU? My ABS light was flickering on so I checked the ground circuit (for the warning lamp)for a short, then made sure I had a good solid power and ground to the HCU. I disconnected the connector at the HCU and the problem seems to be gone. The ABS light doesn't flicker anymore either. I did check the PCM connectors and they appear to be okay.

Well it's back to the drawing board. I drove this truck home tonight and it cut out a few times. When it happened my ABS light came on and the "Check Gauges' light also came on very briefly. I think I'm losing power or a ground. I think it'll be easier to pursue as an ABS problem. I'll check tomorrow but I'm expecting to see a loss of power ABS DTC. Then I just need to trace back the ground or power source. One thing I noticed it that it always happens on accel, like maybe I’m not drawing enough current through a corroded connection.

Has anyone had success with this procedure?

Thanks for the replies. Yesterday, after a hot soak the engine wouldn't idle. It would run fine if I was giving it a little throttle, but not if I took my foot off the gas. I removed and cleaned the throttle body, then it seemed fine. I'm planning on driving it tonight to see whatt happens. I wish I cleaned the MAF last night when it was off, maybe I'll do that too.

I'm working on a 2002 Chevy Express 5.7L with 170,000 miles. The customer's concern is that it stalls, and also stumbles sometimes on accel. I didn't get the truck to stall but it did stumble. It didn't feel like an ignition misfire; it was as if the engine just shut off, but so brief that it didn't stall actually stall. I don’t have any DTC'S; I sprayed down the plug wires and didn't find anything. I did remove the distributor cap and noticed some corrosion on the contacts, but I really don't think it would cause the truck to stall. I know this isn't a Ford, but does anyone have any ideas? I would really appreciate it. Jim

I'm confused. Now I've got a second truck that with a MIL and had the reprogram. This truck has a P0133 in addition to the P164A and P2A00. P0133 uses the same pinpoint test as the other DTC's, and I feel like I’m arbitrarily replacing the NOX module because the only real test I’ve done so far is check for voltage at the module. I'm thinking I may have a bad NOX sensor, but the pinpoint test asks if I'm diagnosing the P2A00. Well yes I am, but I've got a P0133 before it.

I've got one here with the same scenario. P164A,PA200, but the pinpoint test lead to the NOX Module, not the sensor.

Yes and I like how it's called 'Smart Key'.

We've got a customer that just bought a 2011 Taurus. They started the vehicle this morning and the key FOB wasn't in the vehicle, but close enough to start the engine. The customer then drove to downtown Chicago (aprox a two hour drive) and stopped at a gas station. THE CAR WON'T RE-START! The key FOB was left at home and they have no way of starting the vehicle.

It's always the one that's hydrolocked, just trying to get the thing running before bringing it inside. The thing breaks off and has to be dug out of the cylinder head with a long thin screwdriver. The tool works well on some, but if it's stuck, it's STUCK! And then it will SUCK to remove.

+1 on the pump, but I think you should also check the low pressure oil system. To do this remove the oil filter and jump the starter wire so the engine will crank over. The oil filter housing should fill up with oil.

That kind of stuff makes me want to kidnap an SLTS guy and make him replace the manifold gaskets. But let him know I'm going to cut off a finger for every five minutes he goes beyond the specified time. I did a set a long time ago, but it wasn't rusty.

I'll answer my own question: After the body was raised and the downpipe almost fell out of the truck, I had plenty of room to get to the three up-pipe to turbo bolts. Removing the rounded off bolt was easy too. That was a GREAT shortcut!!!

What about the three up-pipe to turbo bolts? Are they removed after the body is raised?

This is true, but I once had a parts guy throw a boxed power steering rack right across my stall. The core got sent back because I had the inner tie rods unscrewed. I thought it was so incredibly stupid and immature to turn down that core, because the place that takes them to rebuild is going to disassemble them anyway. This morning I took a connector off an old injector.

Whew!!! I don't feel so bad now. Do you guys just cut the connector off? I'm always afraid I'll get in trouble if I don't return a core in pristine condition.

I should mention that when I click on this link: http://www.fordparts.com/Landing/Motorcraft.aspx I can't find pigtails, probably because they changed the Motorcraft website.

I'm looking for a part number (if available) for a 6.0L fuel injector. I'm talking about the connector on the actual injector, NOT the FICM harness. I'm also looking for a link to the Motorcraft Pigtail catalog, if anyone has a link to that.

I think it's crazy that if the vehicle requires a subframe Ford isn't paying for it. We've got 50-70 Windstars buried in snow by the edge of a forest that need to come in and have the subframe inspected.

I don't know why either. I'll tell you this though, the first one I had like this I replaced injector O-rings on the right bank. Then I had someone put fuel in the truck so I could drive it home. I thought it was a 'confirmed kill' because it didn't skip a beat. I temporarily fixed the truck by having someone put fuel in it. Imagine how I felt when it came back. To actually fix this particular truck I made two clear tubes; one to go in-line with the fuel supply before the pump, and one in the return line.