Mekanik

You can't but a diesel Ranger in the US, can you?

This thread was really helpful today. I was working on a 1990 E250 with a 5.8 and it had a fouled plug in #8. I remember having a couple with cracked pistons, but this one did not. I couldn't remember why it was fouled out. Lets face it. I was 15 years old working as a bagger at a grocery store at my first job when this thing rolled off the assembly line. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

The word around my shop is that Ford is going to put a diesel in F150's. I know that there was talk about a camless V6 diesel in F150 fleet trucks a long time ago, and then I heard a rumor about a diesel Ranger about 5 years ago. I could see them putting a 4.5L in F150's. Is there any truth to this? Has anyone else heard this? Personally, I think it would be cool if you could get a Ford car with a diesel.

That truck got me pretty good. I was treating it like a no start, and the funny thing is I had a fuel pressure guage on the truck and I had good fuel pressure. I was looking right at when it would crank and not start after it stalled. I was really fixated on combustion gas getting into the fuel system and that baloon test obviously didn't turn anything up.

I've been down this road before. The truck I had was an early 04 and it would loose power and stall only after driven really hard. I got it to happen very consistently and if I came to a stop before it stalled, I would be dropping cylinders in the right bank, but if I let it idle, it would smooth out in a little time. What was wrong was the oarnge plug in the fuel pick-up inside the tank fell out and was sitting on the bottom of the fuel tank. On hard accel all of the fuel would go to the back of the tank and that little hole in the fuel pick-up would take a gulp of air. I confirmed this by putting clear hose in the line going to the fuel pump and on the return line. When it first came in, I suspected combustion gas in the fuel system and replaced all of the injector O rings on the right bank. Then I put fuel in the tank and drove it really hard down the highway. It ran great and I thought it was a confirmed kill. If I didn't put fuel in the tank, I would have realized that I did not fix anything. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Anyway, I hope this helps

Thanks for the replies. I remember that the 7.3's were pretty obvious with the p0603. I thought there might be a "cut and dry" way to tell with the 6.0L's too. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

What is a "sure fire" way to tell if a 6.0L has a "chip" installed?

Your right. I have seen them were the plunger hasn't moved at all, and I have seen them totally plugged, the plunger all the way out, filter lamp on, and lacking power. No in beetween. What about a 6.0l filter? How would you possibly "inspect" that thing? I've only seen 1 air filter plugged on a 6.0l so far.

It seems like I get a lot of 99ish 7.3l's that come in and the filter minder hasn't moved at all but the filter looks filthy dirty. I realize that there is some sticky stuff on the filter to trap dirt which may make it look dirtier than it really is. I have had 2 situations where I get done with the truck and the customer pulls out the air filter and it is completley black. Even inside the folds. It just makes me look bad. I was wondering wether everyone else disregards the filter minder?

I wish I had a test IDM. When I do injectors, I always tell the writer that it may need an IDM too. I even had a couple where the connector fell off and after I put the wedge in to lock the connector, it is still missing... Bad IDM. I know it sounds like BS, but I think that a lot of times its a open circut either at the connector or inside the injector that damages the IDM.

I totally agree. I got the info to do it "in vehicle" , and decided it was probably not going to be worth it. Is there anyone here who has done it "in vehicle" ?

I have only done 2 bedplate jobs and I didn't take the heads off for either of them. Infact there are some that will do the bedplate seals without removing the engine. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

Wow what a hassle just to verify fuel pressure. I think this thing just has a bad injector. I think I might just check the pressure right after the fuel pump. But I will need to figure something out so I can test it at the cylinder head.

Is there a trick to hooking up a fuel pressure guage to the fuel test port at the filter housing on top of the enging? (05 E450 6.0L)

I never really had a problem with those clamps. I just use a small snap on screw driver to pop it apart. I will try just spraying pennetrationg oil on the clamp as suggested just for curiosity.

I'll keep that in mind on the next one that i get. Thanks

Funny you should mention that. When I was getting my vasectomy done, I thought to myself "Yeah. this is better than being at work. " And any time I'm laying in the dentist's chair I usally tell myself "It could be worse. I could be at work right now. " /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Thanks for the quick replies. Last night after I posted this question, I put the new fitting on the pump and put it on the block to find that the bolt holes on the branch tube don't line up. At that point I decided to just replace the tube. I'm really impressed that you guys bend these back into position and don't have any problems. I've got the old tube out already and I'm making good time. It is a crappy job, but I've had worse. Thanks.

I'm working on a 05 F250 and the complaint is that one or two times when it was hot soaked it would not start. It has a dtc for low ICP pressure in memory. I got it very hot and hot soaked it, but could not duplicate the concern. Well I just took off the HPOP cover and tested the system with shop air and the IPR closed. I could not find any air leak. I removed the pump anyway and was able to just pull the STC fitting right out. I can see a mark on the rear cover where the STC fitting hit the rear cover. It looks like the branch tube hit the rear cover down low where there is a metal ridge sticking inward on the rear cover. There is definately a gap on the top part of the branch tube and the rear cover. My question is if this branch tube should be ok? I didn't have an air leak when I took it apart and I probably won't have a air leak when I put the STC fitting on. Or do you guys just replace the branch tube regardless because the STC fitting hit the rear cover? Thanks in advance.

Yes, but you and I are not getting paid for research and development.

I'm with JW here. I don't know you can fail an open book test. As for the class goes, my only problem was that I walked in with about 3-4 questions and I walked out a few days later with the same questions unanswered. I don't think it's the fault of the instructor. He hasn't been told what I wanted to know and he wasn't going to lie to me.

It's been a while, but I think I removed both engine mounts and then it wasn't that bad.

Thank you everyone for the good advice. I added some Simple Green and drove the truck pretty hard with the thermostat removed. Then I used our flushing machine and flushed the coolant for the third time. I have to say that I'm very impressed with how it turned out. There is still a teeny bit of oil in the coolant, but it looks like gold coolant. The tip on draining the coolant bottle before opening the petcock is a really good idea and I will remember it on the next one that I get. Thanks agian.

What is the preffered method for cleaning-up after replacing a internally leaking oil cooler? I'm working on one right now. I relaced the oil cooler and the egr cooler. The cooling system was contaminated with engine oil. I followed the instructions in the shop manual and followed the SSM regarding leaking oil coolers. I installed fresh coolant with a bottle of VC-1. I let the enging run for 20 minutes with the thermostat removed, and then used our flushing machine and flushed about 8 gallons of coolant/water. The coolant looks much better but there is still some grey slime in the coolant bottle and inside the hoses. What do the rest of you guys do in this situation?

What diesel engine will be avialable in an Econoline if a 6.4L won't fit? That was one of my unanswered questions when I was at 6.4L school. The instructor couldn't tell me. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif He's a good guy and I'm not saying it's his fault. I'm really curious what Ford will do.