kevin phillips

After rechecking everything again and switching out about everything from a used donor another throttle body fixed the concern.The new ford unit was bad and causing the issue.I was happy however to see it go and have again realized that new dosen't always mean good when it comes to parts.Thanks for the help and ideas.

thanks for the info,I have a 03 mustang gt trans coming that is supposed to work.The valve body is diffront than most of them but we will see.

I have a 2003 mach 1 with a 4r70w that exploded and sent metal into the entire unit.Trying to find a assembly short of buying a new one is tough because they are very few of them around.Anyone ever tried any other 4r70w's out of other vehicle's or know if anything else would interchange? Neighbors vehicle and would like to find a used one if i knew what would work.thanks

I had the same trouble with those two front bolts.snap on makes a slim 7/8 low torque wrench that will go in with no bending and works super for about thirty eight bucks. Mine has held up well for four or so trucks.

Ended up getting around 5 hours for the job according to the wa but it might be easier the next one.

Pulled tranny, and got it switched but it took me all day.Two bolts were rusty and gave me trouble but i'm interested to see how it pays.The wa said not much this evening but they may be missing something.Did i mention i'd like to stick that exhaust setup up the engineers ass who designed it!

Ouch,i was hoping for good news.This one is leaking about cylinder 5 and i have the wrench kit on order but they want it now. I diddn't see any bolts broken but something is wrong.I may just pull it to avoid the headache if things go bad.

I have a 2008 6.4 with a exhaust leak at the passenger manifold gasket.The shop manual has a long procedure which involves pulling the exhaust from the turbo's in chassis.anyone have any advice from a manifold repair on one of these.Would it be easier to just pull the cab?

I had a 08 fusion with poor am reception ended up being the radio but it had static all the time but just on am stations.Good luck

Thats what it was exactly. I somehow overlooked the post when i searched for oil leaks. I have parts ordered for it for tommorow. Thanks for the help.

Yes,I have plugged the evap hose,no change . The vehicle today lost the injector and coil pulse and showed no rpm signal on the ids for abot five mins then was fine. The idle is still 1200 rpm also. I rechecked the engine with smoke again today with no luck. I am wondering about a pcm issue or wiring issue ground,ect. I cannot tell any change by pulling the oil cap on this one. A new one on the lot changed slightly but nothing much. I get the feeling i'm overlooking something and tommorow i'm going to start fresh. It will be something simple when found but i'm running out of things that i know to check. I need bruce and his scope down here. I am going to check the pcv system some more tommorow. The new symptom has throwed me a curve on a allready horrible week, but I thank each of you for your ideas. I'll update tommorow if i find out anything new.

It looks like it's a possible turbo drain tube o-ring. It was late when i got the cab off today but the oil looks to be coming from the drain where it connects to the turbo on the drivers side. Thanks for the advice. I'll update tommorow if i get to work on it.

I can't see anything up near the front of the engine.The dye seems to be coming from somewhere turbo's back.i'll give the cooler cover another good check monday but it looked ok behind the oil cooler in the opening behind the fuel and oil filters.I really hate the 6.4 because you can't see shit on them.

The short fuel trim is going between -3% and +3%. The long fuel trim is fixed at +4. I have even sent the pid data to hotline with the only reply of check to make sure iac valve is not upside down. I am about ready to burn it. I wonder about grounds up front but have cleaned any i could find.Unplugging the iac causes no change so i replaced the valve. The problem is there all the time so any pid data you might need i can get. I have reviewed the ppt and checked the egr,evap, and for vacuum leaks. I also checked the iac circuit which checked ok and even replaced the iac and the throttle body with new ford parts. The vehicle only has 5400 miles but the title is branded due to the wreck so hotline isn't very helpful with diag and my efforts have been in vain. I even rechecked the timing and pulled the intake back off and rechecked. The ppt leads to iac replacement which has been done allready with no change. The only way i have been able to change the idle is by covering up about half of the air intake and smothering it and it then idles about 750 or so. I have checked the filter and ductwork and all looks ok.I normally work on the diesels but work is slow and our gas drive guy quit last week and we have a shop full of oil changers.

I have a 2007 focus from a body shop 2.3 liter that was involved in a front end wreck. The car has had a high idle since it started after the repair. During the wreck the intake and front cover were damaged and replaced. The iac valve and throttle body have also been replaced,base timing has been checked with correct tools and the crankshaft position sensor has been replaced with use of alignment tool. The only code that sets is a p0507.Fuel trims look ok and a smoke test shows no sign of a leak.It idles at about 1300 rpm most of the time but have seen it as high as 1900 at idle. Any ideas on where to go with this one? I've got 3 days in it with no change to idle.Test drive of about 50 miles hasen't changed it either. Any suggestions?

I have a 2008 6.4 f-350 with a slow oil leak coming from the top side of the engine in the rear.I have changed the oil and added plenty of dye.The oil ends up on the bell housing and trans filter in a couple hours of idle time after cleaning.It is running down both sides of the block about the same following the head gasket seams in rear.I have looked from the top with mirrors and blacklight with no sign of the leak but it's hard to see from the turbo's back.This truck has had a fuel pump cover gasket installed for a oil leak about two weeks ago cab off at another dealer and the customer says it diddn't change the leak.Any idea's or places to look before i yank the cab monday.thanks

I always pull the evap case,it only takes a few minutes.On the drivers side lower back bolt i use a 3/8 snap on torque wrench and it fits ok.A breakerbar and a short 1/2 18 works fine for the degree steps.good luck

The donor truck for the pieces was a wreck. The customer,a local christmas tree farmer,did the swap himself. No he diddn't think he would have to change the harness. He has two new 6.4's and one sicko and could replace the truck if he wanted. This truck is used to pull the trailer's that haul the trees around during season and the farm work truck. I modified the tft wiring for a short period and found number 7 injector bad and replaced it. The truck ran ok with no obvious problems after repair. Thanks to all that helped,and to the one that called with ideas.

Thanks guys for the idea's

We are backed up about a week or so on the truck work but the general service work is off a mile from last year.I guess it's a sign of the troubles the industry is facing due to the economy at least down here.

I have a customer with a 2000 f-350 chassis cab that has had 4 automatic transmissions fail in a few year period.He took it upon himself to convert it over to a manual transmission.The vehicle was brought in and basically it's a mess with no wiring harness changes,just the trans and pedals.The engine is missing and running poorly,but when attempting to test a cylinder contribution test only brings up tft to high code and will not run test.Naturally,it also has every other code possible set in the pcm related to the trans.I wanted to reprogram the pcm to a manual trans calibration to clear up some of the issue's with diag but of course hotline would'nt give me a manual tear tag or as built data.Any ideas on reprogramming and what other issues this might cause the truck to have?It has got a cylinder misfire like it's got some dead cylinders but i don't believe the tests are running right because it spits out the codes related to the trans before the test has had enough time to run.It kicks out like it usually does when the engine is not up to temp and stops testing.Thanks for any input,its a mess but he's a good customer with several other trucks so i'm turning to you guys for advice

Replaced four injectors today,not perfect but waaaaaaaaaaaay better,thanks guys going to replace the others when they arrive but i consider it fixed by the improvement four did.Thanks for the help.

The map ebp and baro are in spec,unhooked exhaust,no change and the ckp,cmp,seems ok on ids and i'm leaning toward a injector issue now. Found out today from customer that the truck was serviced by his mechanic about two weeks ago and that it kept stalling with him afterward. Anyways, they drove the truck a few days before it quit completely and they found that they hadn't got the primary fuel filter cap back on good. They said it quit stalling on the road after tightning the cap, but that the smokeshow and running problems had started then and went downhill from there. Could the cap being loose have caused the injectors to be damaged? He said it diddn't leak but it was pulling in air into the fuel by the cap. The fuel pressure was good so i don't think it damaged the pump but i'm wondering if the injectors took a beating and thats what causing the issue now.Any ideas, opinions thanks guys

No air in the fuel while cranking over and looking at secondary filter housing. It is really a smokeshow and acts like it hits a wall and misses. The air in fuel test is all i got to do today, but i hope to dabble tommorow with it. I have a 03 250 locked up and found about 40 quarts of fuel in the pan and number one injector dumping fuel into crankcase but it was to late for it.Yanked the glow plugs and it's still siezed so i have plenty on the table for now. I'll update if i find anything on it and i'll check the other things you guys mentioned.Thanks for the input.I did think about churning the tank today when the sm asked me when i was going to get done with the shit truck.lol /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

Thanks Keith, I haven't tried that but i will monday and see what happens and update. I've had some that were no starts due to combustion into fuel or hard starts but i can't remember one like this but it could be the case.thanks again /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif The sewage in the back may be hindering my thought process due to these 85 degree days. Jim,thanks and i'll try taking over the ipr,It's not a momentary thing it's a constant problem at 2000 and hesitate was the wrong way of saying it. I guess it's better described as a constant misfire with heavy grayish/black smoke and no increase of rpm's above 2000 cold or hot. Below 2000 rpm's the engine runs fine with good throttle response and no codes now.fuel pressure and quality seems ok. Would the bubbles show up in the yellow hose back to the tank during a fuel test with the valve open ?