kevin phillips

Wiring ok and correct,I swear it's like a injector is just dumping to much fuel at higher rpm's. Would unplugging the injectors one at a time be worth a shot or useless? any other things i might be overlooking?

it's possible i guess,i'll recheck it this evening,thanks

I have a 03 6.0 which has became a real headache (septic tanker).Ran ids tests code p2285 only.Checked and found icp full of oil and connector damaged.Replaced icp and connector and vehicle starts ok but when rpm's reach around 2000 the truck hesitates and the truck bellows out heavy fuel smoke and will not rev any higher. Ran new fuel pressure test at secondary housing 50 psi during concern. Power balance is a real mess at random during concern but no cylinders really stand out as faulty.At idle and up to 2000 rpm's the truck seems normal with very little smoke. Relitive compression test passes and egr test passes.Anyone have any ideas on chasing this problem down down,sugestions, ect.I've tried everything short of pulling the manifolds to try to see if it's a certain cylinder with a injector issue.The pced is leading me in circles and i've got a day in checking it out with no luck.Fuel quality is good /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif.Thanks for any advice and wisdom for the upcoming day.

Have you done a relearn procedure for the egr?cleared codes,koeo on-demand and looked at the vgt learned pid which should say yes after a hot idle time of a few mins. Seems like i had one that i forgot to relearn that was puffing black smoke and had crazy boost problems on hard accel.If the truck has the latest calibration it might be worth a shot. The ids turbo test may also help to verify maf to see if it's in range and a egr ids test and visual inspection might show a problem there. I had a egr valve that would open without any effort a few months ago that acted up similiar to your problem. Let us know what you find. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/borgsmile-1.gif GOOD LUCK

Cac hoses on the 6.0 blow off quite often.Make sure and clean the hoses with brake cleaner and dry before install.Check also to make sure the truck is not overboosting due to sticking vanes in the turbo.New clamps and the updated hose with the orange inner layer inside might also help.

seen tsb 08-16-1 today and i bet there's no more killing dpf's from the pto circuit with this reflash.lol /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/coffee.gif

Wow,thats a monster tool. I'm almost sure that would come in handy somewhere if it would fit in my toolbox but the price is out of my reach.

State department truck ,this was a add on hourmeter that was supposed to count only pto hours. Ford covered the dpf anyway, The company that installed the pto said they had put that setup on 80 of those trucks for the dot of various states. Anyways the trucks have since been put out of service till repaired according to the bodybuilder. They called the shop after someone at the state department chewed their asses and threatened the contract on the trucks to tell me thanks. I was able to disconnect the system on another truck and do a manual regen which saved that dpf for same concern with less miles. The other was to far gone and the temps of the egt's got to high to allow the manual regen. We had 9 here that were all bucket trucks but my work stopped after the second one. It did have a hourmeter in the cluster also which was truck runtime. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whew.gif

electricity was backfeeding through pto hourmeter powering up green yellow wire to pin 30 at pcm causing no regens.Replaced dpf and reset dpf and replaced hourmeter problem fixed.vehicle would not do a manual regen temps got to high in exhaust and ids would kick out of test. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I have a 08 550 torqueshift with a reduced power message in the cluster and a mil light p246c dpf restricted.found ssm 20209 and checked for power at pin 30 at pcm and found battery voltage which according to hotline power to that pin on the pto circuit causes no regens and dpf failure quickly . I removed power to the pin after several hours of chasing my tail before finding the ssm but the vehicle still sets the code within a few mins of operation. The system will not do a manual regen kicks out after warm up screen. The wiring looks right comparing colors from the muncie chart i found on the web but for some reason the problem is avoiding me. I want to repair the wiring before installing a dpf and i don't have any good info on the correct wiring install. Anyone ran into this or have any useful advice for me? thanks

thanks,keith I'm slowly trying to learn more on the 6.4 but right now there a pain in the butt for me. I ended up replacing the egr temp inlet sensor which broke off in the pipe with very little effort at all. I guess the next one will get some pb blaster and soak. I really feel like a rookie on them anyway for now.

i had one today p040d and had a hell of a time finding which egt sesor the ppt was referring to. Is the egt in the up pipe egt-1 and the others egt-2 ect... or what? looks like 5 or so of them on parts listing.damn these 6.4's really piss me off

Anyone seeing any ficm failures?I had a 06 f-series today with a code p0611 and all the injector circuit low codes for all the cylinders.Ficm m-pwr showed 24.5 volts on pid data.i checked the power and grounds to the ficm and they were ok so i replaced the ficm and the codes cleared and now ficm m-pwr is 48 volts and the truck runs better. The problem i have with the truck now is between 2800 to 3200 rpms the truck smokes heavy white smoke and misfires. Power balance is not giving real usuable data at that rpm range and the customer said that it wasen't missing like that before the ficm problem. Any idea's ? Could the low voltage output from the ficm have caused injector failure on some cylinders? How would be the best way to determine which cylinders are down or am i looking in the wrong direction. Thanks for any and all ideas.

sometimes i wish the 6.4 was in the vans lol

My system hasen't seen a winter yet. I'm going to add some additives to it or just drain it daily and refill in the mornings with the same mixture that was taken out. I have a old radiator drain i might put into it if i need to. I only add a small portion of baking soda and the rest is water .I'm not sure if the soda would have an effect on the freezing point and how much.We don't have any long periods of below freezing temps here but it might be a problem up there.

I drive the same as always,no cutting off at stops,no easy ride on it at all.I have been told almost that same thing by several very smart individuals i respect here locally but if it works it works.I'm not selling them and have very little in mine and it does help in my opinion.Try one and see what you think just for fun.I'm not a scientist or the smartest,just a humble mechanic with a open mind with fuel prices as high as they are. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

The cost was around 60 bucks.Scrapyard stainless and free pvc scrap from a customer.The long term is one of my concerns but i did use the spare vehicle.I have heard of some diesel usage but not as much around here.My wife wants one on her stang but i'm putting it off for now. Most of the guys on here have some stainless egr coolers i'd say but good luck cutting on them.I tried one lol.DAMN HARD STUFF!!!on the outside anyway.

I had one a while back with the icp wires melted together that was setting that ipr code from a oil leak out of the sensor.Has the truck had a koeo on demand to relearn the egr? vgtlrn pid show ok? Sounds like a nice one.

I just have it tied into the intake tube at the throttle body.it dosen't build up enough pressure to worry about after shutdown and it can bleed back through the air filter.No real driveability problems so far but i have burnt up a few ballast resistors trying to lower the voltage to the unit and slow down production of the gas to a "safe" level.It does take a min or so before it gets going good.It's a project,is it perfect?no.I've been told it's using as much power as it's making by several but it does help on the fuel economy.I haven't had any explosions yet or engine problems running it on a explorer.The first oil sample tested good but it was two week old oil when i sent it to the lab.Trial and error i guess for now.It is fun and some guys i know are using mason jars and stainless steel wire.They do make alot of heat .The bigger the container the better and try to put it so airflow can get to it.Has anyone else played with one yet?

did they revise the tubes on the 08 or what?

It might be cheeper on the customer to go ahead and get it out. I had one break a rocker arm a while back and the little pivot and keeper was missing from the end of the rocker. It showed up a few weeks later,busted front cover and oil pump, so i now always pull them down till i find the pieces if all possible.It was a 05 and those pieces are bigger than those injector nuts.Either way it sucks for the customer and you wondering.I'd say it's just a matter of time in my opinion.

The hho gen is really simple for a mechanic to do.yes it boosted my 4.0 engine about 8 mpg and i have a small system.the link i posted just sells you info on how to build one and be safe with it.A few of my freinds and i are testing some diffront versions to see how they are going to do.i used 10 stainless steel 3 inch squares.5 positive and 5 negative.just welded a strap down the sides to keep the 5 positive plates and 5 negative plates from touching each other.welded a stainless threaded rod to each side,one to positive one to negative plates and spaced them about a eight of a inch apart.i put the assembly in a 4 inch piece of pvc pipe and end caps sealed to the threaded rod on each side.the plates connected one side positive,one negative and cannot touch each other.i made a removable fill on top of the unit and also put a flashback arrester inline to the throttle body.just think of it as a battery as far as the plates are concerned.i added baking soda and water as my mixture and put fused power from the ignition switch to it.the gas it makes is very flammable and dangerous.i made the mistake of testing the mixture after i first started and i don't worry now about it burning good.it does work, however i still worry about the safety side of it far as the engine and the passengers but so far so good.

i've had one hooked up to my explorer for about a month now.still wondering if it's going to contaminate the oil any.i sent a sample in last week but it will probably take a while for it to get back.i'm running stainless plates in a 4 inch pvc pipe and a little baking soda and water.working good so far.check out this site http://www.water4gas.com

we have been slow here,down about 25% but still kicking

youwanto,is a word down here lol.my internet connection was barbed wire last time i checked but it works.