Brad Clayton

I gotta tell ya that is one hella starter motor on these rigs. Most vehicles would just click click. The belt polished the shit out of the a/c pulley, you could do your hair lookin at it.

I would want to know for sure what is coming out of the HPFP. If you still got the thing somewhat intact, just hook up the high pressure side bleed tool that goes in the banjo portion of the line and spin it. Should be some serious fuel pouring out. As far as the mist out of 2 and 8, if the rods are bent then you could be seeing oil vapor coming out. Or it could need those two injectors. Tough call. A cylinder leak test will blow air out of any port coming from the crankcase if you have piston/cylinder wall damage. If indeed you have major engine damage, a running complete maybe the simple solution, or short block and injectors and pump at the least. It's a shot gun parts cannon approach, but how long does the guy want to be without his truck and how much money does he want to spend now or later.

Damn, I can show whoyamacallit that and cheer him right up! Them boys gotta feel pretty friggin dumb. *thank you Dictionary.com, I almost misspelled dumb*

That things right on the money, 'cause I definitely don't trust auto mechanics. You ever looked at an auto mechanic? Some shady lookin' individuals....

Quote: Here's the kicker. With cylinder #2 injector supply line removed, and a rubber hose connected to the outlet of the HP rail and cranking the engine over I get ZERO fuel exiting the hose. What did you have for base fuel pressure and did you have non aerated fuel coming back to the fuel cooler from the HPFP? So what now? At this point, with three of eight cylinders low on compression and no visible valvetrain damage, it's at the point where the heads are coming off. So, up in the air truck goes with my own B+ and B- supplied to the HFCM, and the drain plug from the oil pan removed, the last check is a fuel leak from the HPFP into the crankcase test That pump would have to be seriously busted to show anything with that test. The best way to check the pump for a leak into the sump is to do the high pressure test multiple times, I mean a bunch in a row. This doesn't do you any good at the moment cause the engine doesnt run. (step #24 as per Hot-Line instruction). I left the HFCM powered up while attacking all eight cab bolts with the gas axe (since the cab IS going to be removed any ways). Still no fuel. A air leak test would give you a good idea of your loss of compression before tearing it down. But I have a feeling this engine is toasted. Like I said before it don't like extra fluids in them bores.

Saw a good one today. A friend calls me 'bout a week ago with 7.3 troubles. '99 E-box stalled and wouldn't restart. Pulled codes and had the usual electronic feedback code. He decided to check the wiring from the pcm to the icm, changed the cam sensor, swapped pcm and idm out, replaced starter and batteries, still nothing. Called me back and I asked if the glow plug lamp came on, yes. He was at his wits end and I decided to make a house call. Got there and said lets see what she's doin'. He spins it over and it's turnin' 'bout 62 RPM's. I said we gotta get a battery charger on this thing. He says the stuffs all brand new. Hhhmmm.. I didn't bring an amp clamp with me. Lets pop the belt off this puppy and see what happens. So he takes the air cleaner assy out and holy crap there is some serious compressor clutch dust. Things locked up tight. Truck purrs like a kitten with the belt off. Ouch. He just sat back and had to laugh. You know sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees, or somethin' like that.

Wifey got a kick out of it. She thinks the local Subaru dealer just gave her the run-a-round. Took it in for a check engine light. We got it back and the light came on again.

Quote: the bypass valve and spring has been missing from his engine for an unknown amount of time I am ashamed to admit that I never check to see if that bugger is missing. You can bet it's on my agenda now though. I do however always check the 7.3 valves.

Quote: I could not update the ids the other day when the vehicle was there because our internet was super slow. We suffer from the same problem. The last guy to leave the shop is saddled with starting the download and letting it do its thing overnight. First guy in is burdened with finishing the update.

I put tires on a Muttstang in the dead of winter with a foot of fresh snow on the ground. I told them flatout, I aint test drivin it for any reason. Hey Aaron, hows the Saturn going? You manage to sweet talk someone over at the GM store into letting you borrow a Tech II? Scour the interwebs for a used one? It's gonna be your best friend on this one.

Lets see....trying to read on a morning that follows Saturday, gonna have to quote the all knowing Peter Griffin on this one "I'm not drunk, I'm just tired from being up all night drinking"

Quote: I have searched for instructions or even some mention of the glowplug mist test on FMC Dealer or the PTS site. No luck. I lifted this from the PCED, step 18 of the no start/hard start section: Quote: 18. Glow Plug Mist Test — No Start Purpose: WARNING: Contact with exposed fuel injector wiring, if energized, may result in electric shock. Use care when working on or around energized fuel injector wiring. Fuel injector wiring supplies high voltage to operate the fuel injectors. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. The purpose of this test is to find a fuel injector with a leaking nozzle for a no start condition. For a hard start condition, continue to the Power Balance Test in this section to continue diagnosis. Glow Plug Mist Test — No Start Glow Plug Mist Test — No Start Bank 1 Bank 2 Cylinder 1 (YES/NO) Cylinder 2 (YES/NO) Cylinder 3 (YES/NO) Cylinder 4 (YES/NO) Cylinder 5 (YES/NO) Cylinder 6 (YES/NO) Cylinder 7 (YES/NO) Cylinder 8 (YES/NO) 4-30 Diagnostic Subroutines Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedures Recommended Procedure: Note: This test is intended to diagnose a leaking fuel injector tip for vehicles with a no start condition only. If the engine runs, do not carry out this test, a fuel injector may be misdiagnosed as the leak may be to small to be visually detected. Excessive engine oil in a cylinder can mislead to multiple fuel injectors being suspected for leaks. • Disconnect the 15-pin inline connector on the left hand valve cover harness. • Disconnect the 15-pin inline connector on the right hand valve cover harness. • Remove all glow plugs. • Crank the engine 15 seconds 2 times to clear the cylinders. • Crank the engine 15 seconds while checking for a mist from the glow plug holes. If a mist is visible from one glow plug hole, install a new fuel injector at the cylinder in question and repeat the test to verify the repair. Verify the engine oil level and quality after the repair, change the engine oil and check the charge air cooler (CAC) for contamination. Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 303-12, Charge Air Cooler Repairs, for the correct cleaning procedures. If a mist is visible from all glow plug holes or one bank of glow plug holes then carry out the Inverse Fuel Injector Leak Test in this section to continue diagnosis. If no mist is visible from any glow plug holes, carry out the Fuel Injector Return Port Leak Test - No Start in this section to continue diagnosis. Possible Causes: • Fuel injectors Tools Required:

Well, the biggest code that I see that's a problem is the P0219 engine overspeed condition. This code sets when the engine runs over 4 grand for more than 3 seconds. Bet the customer failed to mention that. That's definitely an oh shit moment. Its been to my experience that an unrequested increase in throttle ususally turns into an unrequested engine replacement. Don't worry about all those exhaust codes, you already know what's wrong there. Those are just flags letting you know something happened. Same with the low fuel rail pressure code. You really need to sort out all of that shortened and burned up harness underneath, first. This is most likely the cause of code P0652 (VREF pulled low) also get a new EGT12 sensor in or at least plugged into the harness. That stuff has to be fixed whether or not it gets major engine repairs and won't have to be fooled with again til the engine is running. At that point you can determine if your back pressure is out of whack due to possible melted internal pipe guts. So now that leaves you with a serious fuel leak to deal with, while that harness and underneath stuff is on order. I would make sure there is fuel available to the system, by checking low side then bleeding the high side, just to rule it out. I would definitely remove both valve covers and look around in there. Check for busted rockers of push rod damage. Put a wrench on every fuel line fitting and hold down bolts to check for loose stuff. I have never had much luck with the mist test. It would have to be more like a puke test to make an acurate faulty injector tip leak diag. Give it a shot anyway, I would get a read on cylinder pressures right after that also. If that much oil was drained and the guy is servicing it correctly then you may find a base engine problem right there. These engines dont like the fuel that gets metered into them much less any other liquids that arent requested. An inverted injector test maybe the next step. There again, hard to get good results unless it has a severely failed injector or 2 or 3.... So, the fuel is getting into the crankcase and or exhaust by either the injectors overfueling, any line or connection under the valve covers leaking, or a faulty hpfp externally leaking back into the sump, right? Should be tit to figure out.

You got a good point. I have done so many engines, that I was thinking about building oil pressure without worry of the engine starting. Also good for compression tests.

Quote: Edit- I took so long to type this that Jim and Mike beat me to the punch.... Don't ya love when that happens? It's like a nice little surprise. Thankfully we don't have that big a crowd around here, as slow as I type, I wouldn't never get a word in edge wise. Side bar: dictionary.com is one my most used items in the tech resource tool bar. You don't even wanna know how I was trying to spell "surprise".

If you don't want to power the injectors up or anything else for that matter, just jump the single starter wire to batt positive to spin the motor over. You know the yellow wire in the single connector over on the passengers side.

Quote: I do have a good group insurance plan that gets me a massage monthly! I hear ya, I keep my chiropractor in business for sure. My hat's off to you and everyone else that does them cab on! Keith, I have done them both ways. Cab off is the only way for me unless it's just not feasible. I have even done a 6.4 with cab on. It's hard to make an informed decision about it unless I have done it both ways. I'm 40 years old and burned out. So I'm tryin to make my job as painless as possible. That means cab off for me. But I have been takin cabs off since the release of the '97 F-150 when they started tuckin the engines under the cowl. I have also been doing the "alligator" trick since the first turbo charged 7.3l IDI. It's a whole lot easier to get the engine out without having to monkey around with them goofy exhaust pipes with the body tilted back.

Had an '05 Mustang once, the air bag indicator is a led in that one. A body shop repaired the vehicle and cut the printed circuit board to keep the light out. She still beeped though.

He's got back muscles made of steel, could pull a sled full of Borax across the desert, could out shovel a steam shovel, and on and on..

It'll turn your stomach. To come down there and work would be like going on a vacation. The biggest travesty, is to have worked in the South then the North and taken for granted how much I had it made.

Gotta put Vaseline on the rear of the bed to keep the rubber chunkies from burnin the paint eh?

Done a few shorts here, and they got the harness/gasket only with no problems.

We got Windbags stacking up around here, looks just like Mikes'

Here is a pretty good slide show of some of its details: www.sae.org/dlymagazineimages/8287_9084_ACT.ppt Of the two input shafts, one is hollow and the other slides thru it. The flywheel is sandwiched between two clutches. One input shaft sticks out further into one clutch and the hollow shaft rides on the clutch on the other side. The gears are configured so that the unit can engage either clutch to spin one input shaft at a time to engage the evens and odds without locking the box up.