dieseldoc

Wondering if any body here is from wyoming? Specifically from the riverton/lander area. I have some friends that live down there and visited them this fall. I really liked the area and thinking about making a move. I would like to get in at a ford dealer and looking for some info. Just curious what the wages are like and housing expenses etc.

Kind of like the old cummins service packs? You got a book and test sheet and only like 5 of the questions actually pertained to the engines you actually worked on.

That might work. I am pretty sure the dealer tooling was a box that you plugged a couple of cables into, I think they used a luminoscity probe that went into the glow plug hole. I could use the timing light set-up I suppose as long as it is pretty accurate. Does the pulse adapter clamp on the line or do you loosen a line put an adapter between the line and injector?

Hey guys I have a project I am working on and I also have several 6.9/7.3 IDI customers. I have needed a way to check dyanmic timing several times after changing pumps, etc. I am wondering first of all what you guys at the dealer used for checking and adjusting the dynamic injection timing? As well as the best way to do it now. My local pump shop is great about getting my customers in for timing adjustment. However, I would like to have the tooling to do this myself. I have been looking on ebay to try and find it but not having any luck. I know that snap-on offered a timing meter but, you can no longer get parts or service for them. Thanks

I was paroozing the internet and google 7.3 Performance mods. To see what kind of crazy crap people are doing to try and reinvent the wheel. I came across a mod where you crack open the 750 dollar IDM, unsolder one of the resistors and solder in different value resistor. Supposedly this mod "only costs a dollar" and it gives you and easy 30hp and 60ft/lbs. It does this by ramping the injector voltage from 100 volts to 140 volts. Making the injectors fire faster. This is "supposed" to give better throttle response and more low end power. "and remember folks this mod only costs a dollar and an hour of your time" Now lets read into the bullshit here. The ability of the average joe googling this kind of stuff on the internet should NOT be changing and IDM let a lone opening it up to remove parts and put in others. The mod only cost 1 dollar statement is fine until you slip with the soldering iron or dont use a heat sink, your cheap mod just cost you $750+. My thought is an electrical engineer who went to school for 4-6 years designed this complex electrical piece of equipment to work with a complete system. What does the added heat from the increased voltage do to the rest of the components on the board. The injectors were designed to operate on a specific voltage. What happens to the solenoids after thousands of miles at the increased voltage. The most important thing of it all is what does it do to tailpipe emissions. You have supposedly increased the horsepower of the engine? I apolagize for the long post but it just blows me away that people actually try this stuff. I little slip with a soldering iron, some static from dragging you feet on the carpet, using a low quality resistor and boom. You have wrecked a perfectly good expensive piece of equipment. -RANT OFF-

I can't wait until my local dealer gets one. I want to test drive one. The wife is looking into getting a new car and we were thinking a fusion. However the new taurus SHO finally doesnt look ugly and with an eco-boost. . . . . imagine the driveability it probably has. I saw the price tag though and that hurt a little.

The autoenginuity is a great scan tool UNTIL. . . you get to the 6.0 and 6.4. If you are working on a lot of the 6.0, 6.4 bite the bullet and buy the IDS. IDS is the only thing that works with these newer engines.

What we at the cat dealers have been told by cat is: The over the road truck engine market is such a small percentage of their sales that it was not cost effective to continue production of an on-highway engine to mee the new emissions standards. They have teamed up with Navistar. The new 13L and 15L engines is our(cat) base engine components(block, pistons, crank, head, etc) but the rest will be navistar. CAT is also working with international to produce a CAT brand vocational truck which will be sold through cats dealers. The cat truck is supposed to help us as dealers better serve our customers in that they can buy cat equipment and trucks and have everything taken care of at one place. From the prototype picture we have seen of the new navipillar engine it is a clusterfuck and going to be a giant pain in the ass to work on. Especially in those wonderful cramped international chassis. I really hope I am wrong. I guess we will just have to wait and see. The only truth and fact I can share is that as of Jan 1 2010 no more caterpillar on-highway truck engines.

I used to work at a service station when I was in high school and tech school. It came in NOT for brakes, but an oil change and tire rotate. I pulled the front wheels off while the oil was draining and saw not a rotor but the ribs in the rotor. I called the customer and told them they will need brakes obviously and gave them the estimate. They asked if it could wait for a while, I obviously said no and that it had to be fixed NOW. They regretfully consented and I repaired the front brakes. When I removed the caliper what was left of the rotor fell off on the ground. I than pulled the rest of the rotor off the wheel studs. Why do people always want to skimp on brakes???? It is their life and everyone elses on the line. Let an oil leak slide a little but NEVER put off brakes.

Possible its a timing issue? either a pump timing or cam timing maybe a tooth off. I put a cam in a 5.9 cummins in a magnum tractor one time and somebody interrupted me while I was assembling the gear train. Needless to say I had a little OOPS and got the timing off. It smoked white as well. Just a thought

FWIW In my personal 06' F-250 4X4 6spd with 3.73 gears, the worst I have ever gotten is 10mpg towing. That day was a 15mph wind and I was loaded at a GVW of about 21000lbs. I was runnning 68mph. Now granted in the lovely state of ND we dont have many hills or mountains where I was headed but still. In my opinion that heavy that fast and still got 10 MPG is pretty good.

I have noticed that Jim, almost every trainee we have had in the last couple years has a claw hammer in their tool box. I dont quite understand it. I have never had a use for a claw hammer at work yet. Who knows, I had a kid ask me once what the round part of the ball peen hammer was for.

My DSO# is 422740. I think it is cleveland but it was kind of blurry to read. So if it is the cleveland district what does that mean? Is a district a few states area? I was able to get a hold of some factory ford shop manuals on ebay. I will look through the seats and body panels to try and find the line sheet. The only bad part is someone tried to restore it before I got it so it may have been found and missing now. I knew I could count on you guys for information. thanks for the quick responses. It appears that it has the engine, trans, and differentials it was built with. Kind of curious where it came from, a little background is always interesting.

I am not sure where to put this but here goes. I am wondering if anybody on here is into old fords. I have a 62 F-250 4X4. I was decoding the vin tag this evening and have everything figured out except the DSO#. I havent been able to find any reference to what it actually is or what it means. I am thinking it is maybe like a dealer order number or something but dont know. Looking for a little help with this if anybody is into these cool old pick-ups. Thanks

I greatly appreciate your commitment to us and venturing into the snake pit on your time off jim. After I saw your pics I cruised around on ebay and found one for what I think is a reasonable price. I am going to bid and see if I get it. Thanks for all the help guys. Now just to find an accurate gauge that will work with the adapter.

I believe that we are about 900ft here but dont know for sure. I know that compression is low, it should be about 400 or better if I remember right. I have the threaded cap in the right valve cover. I found that we have a manometer here at work, we also have a blow-by indicator that we use on machine engines that we cant dyno. The only trouble may be finding a spec that is in ft3/hr. I guess I really shouldnt worry about it too much. It still runs well, pulls like an animal and gets 18mpg. Like I said I dont plan to overhaul it right now, just curious what the number is. Maybe I should just try to get a hold of the adapter. Bruce do you think if a guy took an old fill cap and drilled a hole in it and tapped it so you could thread in a pipe fitting for the gauge it would work? Or is there a specific orifice in the ford tool?

It will go down. Here is the way too check. Test drive a truck to operating temperature. Mark the coolant level on the degas bottle or just watch it. Now slowly open the cap and watch it rise. I have seen this several times on my own 6.0 pick-up. As jim said hot-spots could cause the coolant to change to steam which will compress as well as the hoses expand as the system builds pressure.

It is a 96 with 160,000 miles that missed the lid update. The compressor wheel does not have real sharp edges anymore. The compression is in the low 300's. It uses about a 2 quarts of oil in 3500 miles, and about 4 quarts when it is hooked to the trailer for a month hauling hay(gets about 3000 miles). I know my injectors are about shot. I have resealed them and my IPR% is better now at 11(hot idle). Here is the wierd part the engine still starts great in the winter. I put 10-30 in it in november and even when it is -20 and sits unplugged for 8 hours while I am in work. I cycle the plugs twice and it pops right off. The diesel theory that I learned suggests that this engine should not start like that when it gets cold. I am mostly just curious what the blow-by is. I dont intend to overhaul right now, since it still runs pretty decent. The engine runs decent but is rough at idle. The compression readings suggest that #4 is the cause of the rough idle because it is at 280psi and the other 7 cylinders are at 305-320 psi. I have been watching the gauge bars on ebay but not sure what a good price is on them.

I do not have the rotunda gauge bar and adapters. Anybody have any ideas for a good accurate way to measure crankcase pressure. I have a 7.3 that is tired I think and need to see what kind of shape it is in. Wondering if any of you guys have built your own manometer or found a good alternative. I know I have read about this in a thread here before but couldnt find it. Thanks for tips guys.

I completely agree with you Aaron. The only shitty part of that statement is that I AM the little guy. I have suggested to the boss that we hire a littler guy than me, but hasnt happened yet. rofl

Dont know about the gassers and 150s but I did a E4OD to 5spd swap in a 3/4 ton and it went really easy. Especially if you have a donor vehicle. The only thing I had to have special made was a rear drive-shaft. Otherwise all the wiring, cross-members, pedals, column, etc just bolted right in. It took me probably 10-12 hours to get the major stuff swapped and a few hours of tinkering to get things routed just right and get everything working. Since mine was an IDI I didnt have to worry about a PCM at all but may need one from a manual 5.0 I dont know though maybe the pcm is the same from auto to manual.

That is very interesting, I didnt know that. It is wierd all the problems and issues you guys have with your remans. We hardly ever have a problem with our cat REMAN engines. You learn something new everyday.

I thouht that reviva was the engine rebuilder for ford? I was at my local fuel shop the other day and they sell reviva remans. One of his technicians used to work for a ford dealer and he said if you pull back the ford reman sticker that it says reviva right underneath of it. Dont quote me because I havent seen it myself. But the guys there have always been real honest with me.

As always Bruce you have the best information and it is so easy to understand. I work primarily on 94-03 7.3s. However there are more 6.0s coming off warranty everyday. Increasing my opportunities to learn more and gain experience with these engines. I have some time to watch for a really good deal. Will have to keep my eyes open. Thanks again Bruce yet one more reason why I love this site.

I was looking in to getting a breakout box. I found some on ebay that look to be in good condition. Does anybody have the part numbers of the box itself and recommended adapters to get. Thanks for the input guys.