mchan68

Old news. Someone already mentioned we will be seeing six digit price tags for pickup trucks before long. Well, here it is folks.

Look for the odd PTU failure, power steering pressure line leak at the steering rack as well as brake booster failure. Those are the things to look out for on that particular model.

If you are talking about the o-rings on the tops of the injectors along with the ferrule that's in the kit that you can't get from Ford, I would definitely go higher than one hour over and above the injectors R and I. From what I have read, that's a task that can be tedious with only a 50/50 success rate of repair.

In the Ford world, we use 25 for miles and 40 for kilometers. Ford preaches oil changes every 200 hours, 6 months, 5000 miles/8000 kilometers whichever occurs first. Try explaining this math to the average Joe customer.

Interesting. That's 1689 non-idling hours. But by hour versus actual driving mileage, this means this engine's wear also has 42225 miles of driving mileage wear reflected by that number, PLUS the idling mileage wear. Wow.

Just for curiosity, what are the idle hours and the model year of the truck in question?

'14 F-250 6.7L XL 2WD in for 14E03 and check engine light on. Only code was a hard fault for a P0073 AAT sensor high input. Checked and found the right side exterior mirror looks almost brand new like it had just been replaced, no AAT. That was the easiest diag for me. You won't believe what the price is, for a new mirror without power or heat even.

None. All are F450/550 chassis cab trucks. Exactly as I suspected. Which was the point to my question. I read about a lot of cab and chassis trucks with these engines failing, but hardly ever any pickup applications, yet the output is derated on cab and chassis applications so there has to be a pattern going on here.

Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Better you than me. Just curious, but are any of them pickup truck applications?

I have replaced an entire fuel system before, a few years ago and it was a very time consuming job. If I had to do one again, I would be lifting the cab to do so, for how relatively little time it takes not to mention the access given. Don't forget to include the coolant you are going to need to drain and refill. Having said all that, 18 hours sure sounds way light.

Anyone else ever think that vehicles where the oil filter is the easiest to access, always seem to end up being the ones that are always way overtightened when it ends up in your bay for an oil change? Anyone else ever find your good old Snap-On guy always has a way of showing up in your bay trying to sell you (rape you???) every tool under sun when it's the deadest, and therefore the time where you are least in a position to be buying that $600 cordless drill that he's trying to pawn off on you?

Sounds like the exact shoes I walk in.

Reminds me of one I had years ago. I long blocked a 5.4L in an E-350. When I went to fire it up, it kept cranking with no fuel getting to the engine. It turned out that I had forgotten to re-install the ground strap on the lower passenger side under the body (which was removed when I raised the body off the frame). Re-installed the ground strap and the fuel pump came back to life.

The only one catastrophic failure I've ever had a on 6.7 required only pictures of clear evidence that valves had kissed pistons, uploaded on the form that resulted in approval granted within ten minutes and no further questions asked.

We've replaced quite a few for setting P0420 and P0430 under the TSB, but never seen one cracked yet.

Is he still employed there?

What model year and vehicle are we talking about?

I'm glad I'm not the only who thought this when I read the post above.

Looks like a pretty standard 3.5/3.7 water pump to me. Done LOTS in the last couple of years. If I recall correctly, the original pump uses a 7 blade impeller while the replacement uses 11. I MIGHT have even posted pics here a while back. For what it's worth, you don't need to drop the powertrain on an Explorer to remove the timing chain cover like you would on a Edge/MKX. ON EDIT: I just read your other post in the Prior Approval ESP thread. In those kinds of situations, your best bet is to get your service manager to sign off on ALL MT time you need, for disassembly diagnosis to satisfy the Gods at Prior Approval, failing which you should just get him to internal the time you need to cover it, then just claim your base labor ops for whatever repair you are approved for. I know how much ESP sucks, BTDTGTTS,

Best way to avoid this is to outright refuse to work on any vehicles coming in through the door with the emissions system either deleted outright, or modified in any way, shape or form. This way, we remove ourselves from any possible liabilities that can arise.

How is the coolant level? Is the thermostat functioning properly?

I'm a little late to the party, but yeah a Ranger 4.0L SOHC (as well as Sport Trac, 1st gen Explorer etc.) can easily be done without removing the cab. Brad Clayton summed it up pretty good.

Hmmmm......... I WONDER what this could be, that made them decline further repair/diag so quickly?

That's a lot of draining and filling though. I personally think more frequent fluid change intervals of all its half litres would probably go a long way.

How do us lowly XLT owners get that to display on our message center?