mchan68

I'm glad I'm not the only one..... Surprised there isn't anything on OASIS about it.

Has anyone else experienced extreme difficulty installing hub caps on the newer style Super Duties with the exposed style lug nuts. I've already taken delivery of my '21 Lariat Black Appearance package truck, and ruined the right front hub cap trying to install it.🤬 I swear to God, the amount of force required, to strike the caps with a mallet is borderline excessive to the point of destroying them, in order to overcome the tension needed to get them to fasten to those style of wheel nuts. Who the fuck comes up with these stupid designs?

Thanks guys! I'll be damned. I searched through the owner's manual and couldn't find it (I guess I didn't search hard enough). Yes Keith, I did see that information in the workshop manual but that still leaves four different possibilities for a midship tank. I finally found it through Forscan while I was playing around programmable parameters.

NOPE. Just trying to figure out exactly what my tank capacity is. I know for a fact, it is definitely larger than the ridiculously small 26 gallon tank I had on my 2016.

The pic above, is for a gasser with part number LC3Z-9002-G. Mine is a 6.7L diesel with a 'Q' suffix. But yeah, someone told me I likely have a 34 gallon tank. I just haven't been able to find anything written that confirms that. I just know that it costs substantially more to fill up this tank than it did my 2016 truck of similar cab and box configuration.

This may sound like a dumb question, but can anybody tell me if there's a way to find out the fuel tank capacity of the part number listed above? If it matters, it's on my new '21 F-250 CCSB 6.7L. I have searched HvBOM high and low, and cannot find it.

On the vehicles that have aftermarket rims with those flimsy style wheel nuts requiring use of that special socket, I most definitely torque those by hand with the vehicle on the ground. Funny you mention '11 and up Explorers. I've been doing very regular oil changes and tire rotations without ever having any issues. Of course, there are those techs that just have to go three rounds of "ugga uggas" with the gun before they stop.

It has worked extremely well. No issues with under or over torquing whatsoever.

For all the reasons above, is exactly why I've jumped on the bandwagon of buying and using Milwaukee Fuel cordless tools for all my repairs. My neighbor tech even bit the bullet and bought a Snap-On cordless 1/2" drive gun and it lasted only a year! And we all know how much Snap-On tools cost. I won't disagree that the Milwaukee 1/2" drive is a little heavy to use with the battery pack connected, but not having to drag around an air line connected to whatever tool I'm using makes it well worth it. So far, it has held up extremely well through two tire swap seasons and counting. I'm now debating on whether or not I should be getting another power bar and more chargers to install on my workbench.

Nice. How hot did that engine get?

That was the worst one I've ever had, out of the hundreds of the ones I've done.

The FUEL version is the only version I'll buy so I can't really say for sure. All I can say though, is my 3/8 drive compact gun is powerful enough to snap bolts off if I'm not careful about how I regulate the trigger. Don't ask me how I know!

You can count me in on the cordless tool bandwagon too. And it's funny that Milwaukee seems to be the popular choice too.....as I now have FIVE in my arsenal....and more to come!!! The most used tool I have, is my 1/2" drive gun. The weight of this thing is pretty heavy I must admit....but the added convenience of NOT having to connect an air line to it makes it well worth it!!! My 3/8" ratchet and stubby guns are so compact and powerful it makes doing any type of engine work an absolute breeze! About the only thing I use my air line for anymore, is the check/fill tire pressures. The thing I'm noticing in just about everyone's world is, there doesn't seem to be enough AC power outlets or USB ports to go around for everyone. Anyone noticing that everyone needs to have power bars everywhere, just to extend the number of AC outlets available? My Snap-On air tools, now sit in my toolbox unused for the most part.

WTF???

"This program extends the warranty coverage of the catalytic converter portion of the selective catalyst reduction (SCR) system for twelve months of service, beginning on the date the powertrain control module (PCM) is reprogrammed under Emissions Recall 21E01. This program only applies if an SCR (converter) fault is detected and it is related to a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P20EE identified after 21E01 has been performed." My point is if a vehicle, OUT-OF-WARRANTY for the exhaust after treatment system comes in to have the 21E01 reflash done, and the claim submitted (which immediately activates programs 21N02, 21N05 and 21N06), and then shortly after, comes back in with a Check Engine light (and any DTC pertaining to the SCR system in any way, P207F for example), the customer is still SOL if diagnosis determines an SCR needs replacement? But.....according to the text copied from Program Terms for 21N06 above, Ford will pay for a new SCR catalyst ONLY IF P20EE is set? But not any other DTC that the end result is the SCR catalyst is determined faulty? That was my point, and leading up to the question of why Ford won't pay if there's any other DTC set leading to the SCR catalyst as the cause, as I understand it? Like you, I agree, a failed SCR, is a failed SCR.

I see that Ford is now willing to pay for an expensive exhaust replacement for the owners of these vehicles that have this reflash done, IF it sets a P20EE after the reflash. But what happens to those trucks that have the reflash, and then come back shortly after with the dreaded P207F and diagnosis determines an SCR replacement is necessary? Will Ford still pay for that? What about extra parts like EGT sensors that we all know seize up in the exhaust?

That is slick!!!

Okay.....no DTCs when I checked. It never did re-occur on my truck again since then, but.....on my way out the door to work one morning, my wife's 2019 Explorer had both front windows open this time.😡😡😡 So yeah, now I'm definitely interested in having the global open feature permanently disabled on both vehicles. Well, after some digging, I finally found a way to do it.👍👍👍 It's already too late to cancel the order for my 2021 F-250 unfortunately, so the next guy to take my truck will be taking it, minus the global open feature.

For the sake of needing to replace a part, I would go with the upper pan as well.

Driven mileage???

The last one I had, had an ongoing problem with the wrench light coming on intermittently. Pinpoint test pointed to replacing the turbo. Turned out, a giant walnut fell down the engine compartment and jammed the turbo VGT actuator rod. I believe the code set was P0234 IIRC.

Nope. I just got my truck back from having it detailed. The next time I do a manual Regen on it, I will check for DTCs... But..... I'm toying with the idea of getting into a 2021 Lariat with the Sport package in the meantime. The only thing I'm on the fence about, is the all new for 2020 10R140. The reliability is obviously unknown.

Okay. How are you gents? I took the wife's car this morning to work to do her oil change. When I arrived home, both front windows were open yet again!!! Of course, both my front seats and door panels are now soaked from the rain and snow we had today.🤬🤬🤬 Is there any way to disable this stupid global open feature? Would it be under programmable parameters with IDS?

Not as scary as what you'll see when you pull the oil pan off a 2.7/3.0 V6. The oil pump is driven by a thin RUBBER cogged belt (like a timing belt) submerged in engine oil!!! I believe I saw an SSM about an updated replacement chain drive setup somewhere not too long ago.

Would you care to elaborate? I just clicked on that link and couldn't find that tool. All I could find on their website is drill guide kits for exhaust manifolds for the common engines needing them but no hub pullers. Changing out hub and bearing assemblies on Explorers is on my hate list of jobs and if such a tool exists to make this job tolerable, it's worth the investment. Sorry for the thread derail.