mchan68

Did it have 07S57 open?

The biggest pain in the ass of this job, is accessing the EGR cooler and mixer tube fasteners. I have yet to figure out a combination of sockets and extensions to make easy work of this. The lack of space and working blind is what makes this job unpleasant.

So you've had pretty close to the same exposure as I've had so far. I've had to long block a 3.5 Eco, replace an EGR cooler and replace a high pressure fuel system on these so far. And all three were horrible jobs, especially the high pressure fuel system!!! I hope the 3.0L diesel F-150 won't be nearly this bad!!!

That was exactly how I did mine. Bonus that this part was under warranty too.

Have I mentioned how much I HATE working on 3.2L Diesel Transits? Oops..... I forgot I already mentioned that a couple posts back.

Better you than me Keith. Posts like this only further my stand with my management on my adamant refusal to work on anything bigger than an F-250/F-350 in my shop.

This is my truck. Just this last week, it has began howling as though it's stuck at 100% duty cycle all the time. Has anyone else ran into this? My truck is not overheating either. No DTCs. Just a straightforward fan clutch replace and life should be good?

In my dealership, I've told my SM that if I can't drive it into my shop (because it's too long), or I can't walk under it (because I can't lift it), I won't work on it PERIOD. I'm getting too old for that kind of shit.

If you're pulling the transmission, let me know know how you make out with the Crossmember Fasteners.

NOPE. Put them all into Sprinters so I never have to see any of them again!!!

Just curious, but is there a way to flag diesel powered vehicles in OASIS after they've been misfueled? The reason for this question is because I had an F-550 in on the hook gassed up, a while back which had already been to another dealer where a quote was provided to repair, and then declined by the customer and brought into my dealer. The vehicle was too large to bring into my shop for me to work on, let alone get into the extremely intrusive repair needed to correct such a mistake. I've already had this conversation with my service manager regarding the size limitations of certain vehicles, only for it to fall on deaf ears almost every time. Anyhow, on the vehicle described above, I was requested to provide a quote to simply drain and refill the vehicle with diesel and let it go. Grudgingly, I did as requested, but not before I wrote on the RO comments that I take no responsibility for any future issues that may arise pertaining to the fuel system for failing to complete the correct repair as per Ford Motor Company, with the published recommendation printed and attached. Fast forward to today, another such truck rolls in on the hook for the exact same error made. These are rental trucks by the way, so that this story makes sense. The only difference today is, the truck in question today is a '18 model year with all of 828 kilometers on the clock. So, to reiterate, what is the correct protocol to follow should such an error occur, but the customer declines the correct fuel system replacement and requests you simply perform a drain and refill? Is there a way to flag the vehicle in OASIS without actually voiding the entire warranty altogether? My main reason for this question is so that, after the half assed "repair" is done, the vehicle doesn't end up at another dealer with a subsequent fuel system issue without that dealer being aware of this error in its history, and unknowingly puts it through under warranty when it shouldn't be.

Okay, now I've reached the point where I wish Ford would buy every single one of these on the road and destroy them. Anybody else share the same sentiment?

With what I'm currently going through with one now, the last couple of days, I'll second that statement only I'll just make it a lot simpler by saying it in English, it IS the biggest piece of shit ever.

I might have one coming in for a high pressure fuel system replacement. I see the workshop manual instructs you to remove the intake manifold to enable access to the high pressure fuel pump. I haven't had one out yet. What was the hardest part of the intake removal process?

OH BOY!!!! I feel your pain brother. I just went through a similar scenario with a guy needing a long block about a month ago. The BS I went through with him trying to sort out parts that were available was beyond ridiculous. This business of diagnosing concerns and not being able to obtain parts sure is getting old really fast.

You don't need to pull the intake manifold. Remove the engine mounts and let it drop down low enough and the cooler will slide out.

Neither was I Keith, up until posting this. And I have already replaced a few DEF tank heaters on these. I've only remembered getting splattered with some water on the other ones when removing the rear transmission support bolts. Perhaps this is the reason the one I currently have won't budge? And yes, I certainly agree that being in the rust belt areas like we are, is where we're going to have to deal with this sort of thing. But again, I'm really curious as to what the work around is going to be in these sorts of situations. I am going to attempt to remove the tank on this unit without removing the support, but still wonder how this will be addressed when the transmission will need to be removed. I tried checking OASIS and nothing comes up. Those stupid driveshaft recalls are bad enough as it is. I don't want to imagine what kind of bulletin would be issued if Ford gets wind of this. I have to wonder if there has been any Hotline requests by other techs and what their response was.

Thanks guys. That's good to know. And, nooooooo………… I won't be telling Uncle Henry that either. Not that it is relevant to the repair I'm involved in on this particular unit, but I'd hate to think of the poor guy having to deal with this, if the transmission ever needed to be removed for whatever reason.

Hi all. I'm not sure where to post this but since it pertains to a particular repair step, I'll post here. I have Transit 3.2L that I'm in the midst of trying to replace the DEF tank heater/sender unit to correct a P20BA DTC setting. This is not a repair that is new to me by any stretch. However, on this particular unit, I cannot budge any of the four transmission crossmember fasteners if my life were to depend on it. I've tried heating the heads of the bolts cherry red, and letting it cool off before attempting further. I would like to ideally put heat to where they thread into, but because of this particular body design the area in question is not accessible. And speaking of further attempts, I've resorted to using a 3/4" drive impact gun with a short 18mm impact socket along with a 3/4" drive long breaker bar to no avail. The amount of force used, felt like I was on the verge of snapping the bolts!!! Has anyone else come across this yet? Any workarounds? I would hate to think if for any reason the transmission needed removed that this would prevent that from happening.

Keith, I've done one so far under warranty. If I recall correctly, I flat out MT'd that repair. It was on a truck that plows and salts so you can imagine the rust factor. Accessing the block grounds were what sucked for me. I vaguely recall dropping the steering box too, to get everything routed up correctly. That job took me a day. And yes, replacement was for the exact same reason you are opting to replace yours.

http://driving.ca/ford/auto-news/news/family-heirloom-1931-ford-totaled-by-distracted-driver-in-corolla/amp Wow........ Just, WOW!!!! How pissed would you be? I know in all collisions, our first concern should be whether or not anyone was injured. But in this particular one, I don't know. I can't think of any one that isn't more of a result of monumental carelessness than this one.

https://people.com/crime/new-jersey-bus-driver-charged-crash-killed-girl-teacher/amp/ Apparently the driver of the bus has been charged.

On a vehicle that is more than ten years old, and especially being an '07, I would be charging more than that. The '04 to '08 body styles are much more tighter to work with, especially the space needed to remove the passenger side valve cover. That A/C accumulator is going to be in your way. Speaking of 5.4L 3-valve engines, I've read of guys installing the cast style timing chain tensioners along with a Mellings higher than factory volume oil pump assembly as an upgrade to permanently combat the phaser clack issues that have plagued these engines for years. Of course, I've never personally done this upgrade myself, but just wondering if anyone else has had experience doing this and if the benefits are worth it?

What is the correct model year of the vehicle? If it has a 5.4L engine, it's either a 2009 or 2010 (unless we're talking about the 2004 to 2008 generation). If it is in fact a 2011 model year, it won't have a 5.4L in it.

Dumped would be the best alternative. A vehicle that old isn't worth the money or the labor required for the repair in question. In answer to your question though, yes it can be done with the transmission removed and the engine raised slightly without needing to remove the turbo. I know this is because I've personally seen it done. Whether or not I agree with this method is another story though, for the same reason already mentioned above.