mchan68

For future reference, if you have an IPR valve pigtail lying around that you use to supply direct power and ground to, for air testing HPO system for leaks, you can use it on the VGT as well. Doing so will achieve the same as doing the turbo boost test without the IDS. I had one once, that wouldn't run the test with IDS and I tried powering it up with my IPR pigtail. It ended up getting a PCM to repair. That one pulled my hair out too.

Let's just make this plain and simple. They're all absolute pieces on junk on wheels that will either leave you on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere, or completely drain you of all your savings in the costs of repairs. There now, that was easy.

Those are your tax dollars at work paying guys like that.

I have ZERO problems crossing my T's and dotting my I's (and even lower case J's too). What I DO have a problem with, is doing as such, and as you say, having them claw back my time for a repair and try and blame it on ME after I repaired a vehicle. In this particular instance, it's cut and dry that we have ourselves a case of owner negligence that the advisor is trying to ask me to put through under warranty (fraudulently obviously). And I don't give a rat's tail if the customer is happy or not either, in this instance (he's just as much a snake in my opinion if he expects me to put my neck on the line, as the warranty Nazi will be, who's going to kick back the claim if we even think of putting it through)

THAT is EXACTLY what concerns me. I'm almost ready to go postal on the service manager and the advisor every time I try to convey to both of them that I foresee a shitstorm of a bouncing on this particular situation. My service manager keeps singing the "You will get paid as long as BLAH BLAH BLAH...."

Job security.

How would you guys handle this? I have a 2008 F-550 dump truck that was originally towed in months ago for a horrible engine knock issue. It has been sitting on our back yard ever since because I smell shit hitting the fan with this one. The vehicle in question has about 68,000 kms. and 2665 hours on the clock. According to in-service date it still has coverage. I told the advisor I wasn't willing to pursue it any further until I have maintenance records because I KNOW FoMoCo is definitely going to ask for them. Rather than get too far into it, here's my prior approval log: The contact details above should tell the whole story of the situation I'm faced with. The service manager is hounding my ass and the advisor's ass to "get this vehicle in and diagnosed". Really? Diagnose WHAT? The pictures requested and submitted are that of both valve covers removed, showing nothing but pure black tar like consistency about a good 3/8" thick, caked to the valve covers, never mind the valve train and all the other components. As for the maintenance records submitted? I think it's safe to say they are fraudulent putting it lightly. Long story short, I am trying to prevent shit from hitting the fan, which I almost KNOW is going to happen if I put forth with this repair under warranty. What would you guys do?

I should be so lucky. The few I've had coming in that don't run have all been no-crank/no-starts that have ended up being a open CAN + or CAN - circuit to either the PCM or BCM.

I have an '11 E-350 V10 gasser here that I short blocked about a year ago at 24,000 kms. with five out of ten cylinders with spun rod bearings. It's now back at 48,000 kms. with a spun cylinder #2 only rod bearing. The rest of the nine cylinders' rod bearings are undamaged. This engine looks otherwise clean inside and out. Is there anything I should be doing to prevent yet another issue inside the engine another 24,000 kms. later? I really don't feel like RE & REing the engine in this thing for warranty times being it's an E-Series.

All 6.0L model years from 2003 on up to mid 2006 have the bolts and nuts oriented where the bolt goes through the up-pipe with the nut on the exhaust manifold end. On mid 2006 and up models (I'm assuming the commonized engines with the 20mm dowels), the nuts are on the up-pipe ends secured with the shouldered bolt, bolt head on the exhaust manifold end.

A customer came in to inquire about the availability of one, the front counter guy told him he had to buy the entire engine harness so he came and asked me if I know of such one available. After digging into the Motorcraft catalogue with visual illustrations, I happened to find one. And yes I did confirm it fits before I posted this information.

The point of my post is that if you attempt to look up the pigtail it will not list one available, just like the one for 6.0L ECT/EOT/IAT #2 sensors.

For those of you interested, if you are looking for the male end of a 6.0L Fan Clutch connector, you can use part number WPT-1136 instead of having to buy the whole engine harness or source one off an old engine harness if you don't happen to have one handy. Keith, it probably would be a good idea to have a Sticky for odd wiring pigtails not listed in Microcat.

Okay, perhaps I should've clarified it was a drop-in assembly including turbos and basically everything else except the engine harness. After buttoning it up with a new rocker arm and repeating several manual compression tests followed by a relative compression test with satisfactory results, I completely re-assembled it and fired it up. After running it for a bit, I went on a very brief road test around the block without issue. In the middle of doing a manual regen, the truck just shut off by itself. When I tried to restart it, FRP wouldn't go any higher than 237 psi.

Okay, after getting it back together and having it run on all eight cylinders again for a good couple of hours without issue, it now refuses to start ............

Update: The one I long-blocked ended up making it no more than 50 KMS. (about 30 miles) on the post-repair road test (my home and back into work), before needing towed back in with cylinder #1 intake rocker broken.

To all the Canadian techs, if changing the format of the website wasn't bad enough, is anyone else having problems accessing inford from their home PCs or their laptops? I just tried, and I get a page that informs me access is restricted.

Which one is this? I can't seem to find it.

Local State tax dollars to pay for someone's public mischief.

I got one right now that's getting long blocked because of a roller lifter. There's no way I'm interested in marrying one of these.

I haven't personally seen any coming in with repeat failures with the ABRM models. I believe I've had ONE repeat AARM failure personally. There has to be something being done to make them beefier during the reman process.

I'm shorter than you, and even I have a hard time getting in and out of it. It's the owner of our dealer's car. He "requests" they be replaced because of a squeaking (or PERCEIVED) noise issue. Apparently he's being particular about who gets to wrench on it. WHY ME???

Just curious. Has anyone ever changed out a supercharger drive belt on a 2006 Ford GT before? If so, how difficult was it? And what's a fair labour hour time to charge for this? There doesn't appear to be any SLTS labour op times for this vehicle. The workshop manual procedure for this looks pretty intense, with having to remove an interior panel as well as both the oil pump and accessory drive belts just to access.

Changing the wiring pigtail to to bank #2 for cylinders #2 and #4 injectors and glow plugs and cylinder #5 injector fixed this one.

Diesel Particle Filter. Regeneration. 6 mpg.