mchan68

I have a request from a guy, whose E-Series I repaired about a year ago for, to possibly diag and replace a faulty injector on said vehicle in thread title. Does anyone have any pics, cautions, or words of wisdom to offer in tackling this task. I've already went to look at this vehicle. It definitely appears that this engine is running on only five of the six cylinders. Unfortunately the Park Brake Light is not working, so I was unable to retrieve the flash codes I vaguely recall reading about here. I did however, manage to find a guy that owes me a few favours who happens to have a scan tool that will communicate with this vehicle to scan it. Once I determine the offending cylinder(s), I'd like to form a game plan as to how to proceed with the repair. This vehicle has about 500,000 kms. (300,000 miles). I went to my local Navistar dealer this morning to price out an injector, but they refuse to without a VIN. So my questions are: Are there any special tools required for such a job? The foreman at this dealer told me that the 4200 truck is the tightest application of this engine. A few have said that valve cover removal is possible with the "doghouse" removed. I was also cautioned about the valve cover-electrical harness. Does this have a UVC harness like a 7.3L, speaking of which I've been told that this engine uses injectors that are similar to? That said, are there any rail plugs to remove in order to drain the high pressure oil before injector removal, or does it utilize a removable rail like a 6.0L? Any other parts other than the injector(s) themselves I need to have on hand before digging in? Should I recommend an oil change after the repair? Sorry for all the questions? Pics would be nice too, if any of you have any.

I have thought about using the Ford orange coolant in my own truck myself, so it will be interesting to hear about the feedback here. This is despite the fact that I have put myself on a regiment to change out my coolant every 50,000 kms. (30,000 miles).

YES.

GUILTY.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1001465-rebuilding-the-6-0-vgturbo.html

If you don't mind sharing, where exactly did you find this wire? Was it a defect (as in improperly routed and rubbed through), or customer induced damage? I played with one a while back that the customer installed an aftermarket trailer brake control and unknowlingly created an open in the network: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=43197#Post43197

There is also the black electrical tape fix like you see on all them high mile taxis or other beaten up, unsafe vehicle on the road, likely being driven by some dude by the name of Mohammed or Abdul.

Who in the hell do those guys think they are? Bo and Luke Duke?

And I'm curious as to how you would handle things, if you were approached by one or more of your supperiors requesting your assistance to arrange granting that said request by a couple of fleet owners, knocking on your dealer's doorstep to do business with you. This is while your supperiors only have $$$ in their minds when they accept said fleet's business with the attitude that if you refuse it, someone else down the street will gladly accept it.

Change the hair and mustache colour to orange and I'll go as far as saying it looks exactly like Jim, not only in physical appearance but personality too.

The knucklehead that started this thread is in my mind the perfect example of why the EPA is cracking down on diesel powered pickups with ever so increasingly stringent tailpipe emissions standards: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1222105-i-want-to-roll-coal.html Also interesting to note the strong sentiments expressed by almost everyone who chimed in to reply.

Uummmmm.......don't you think you're exaggerating just a little with that statement? And you already know much I love working on E-Series too.

How many labour hours if you don't mind me asking?

Wow, that sure is a lot of work, just to remove a glow plug harness.

I get an hour for diesel oil changes in my shop on E-Series or F-Series (250 to 550). If one of these beauties ever showed up on my doorstep, I'd ask for 1.5 or I don't do it. I'd have to imagine there are at least 18 litres to re-fill if memory serves me correctly. For 0.4, I'd tell the advisor to give it to the lube jockey to do it.

Although I have never wrenched on one of these, I'm going to assume the F-650 applications are identical to the vehicle application described as well.

On F-Series applications a FICM harness costs about 1/5 the price of that if I recall correctly. 'Nuff said. As far as tracing the short on an E-Series is concerned? How much did you quote for labour to pinpoint the area and replace the short? I would've said harness or the job either doesn't get done, or gets done but no guarantee there won't be other issues somewhere else on the same harness down the road. At least with a part replacement there's a service replacement warranty on FoMoCo's dime, not YOUR dime.

My all-time favourite is when a writer writes one up for me, "Customer requests quote to replace all eight injectors". We all know the cost of parts and labour, as do the writers and service managers. That said, we have to wonder if the writers and managers give a rat's tail as to whether or not we fix the customer's vehicle, or just simply line their pockets vehicle repaired or not. I had a good customer a couple years back requesting me to replace the engine on his truck with the intent to achieve repairing an intermittent stalling issue that I was having difficulty reproducing the symptom/diagnosing. As I was replying to the customer that I KNEW that replacing an engine would not repair his complaint, I got interrupted by the service manager, "Mike just shut up and go ahead and do the job".

Well, I managed to re-secure the line to get it working again. It seems as thought the rubber line going to the hub swelled up a little causing a loose fit. For those of you curious, the part number for the line assembly is 5C3Z-3C124-AA.

Well guys, isn't it always nice when your own ride breaks down? Anyhow, do anyone of you know if I can purchase the little plastic junction that joins the two vacuum lines together in this photo, or do I have to buy a new line? Thanks in advance. By the way, my truck is a 2007 F-250 4x4 with ESOF if it matters.

It's nice to you deeply involved with the GOOD old bowtie machines Aaron.

I've changed that hose ONCE, after it had ruptured and I believe I MT'd it. Almost every one of those cheesy plastic pushpin retainers broke despite being as careful as I possibly could.

Are we talking about the main rubber line by any chance?